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Everything posted by obbm
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Over the past few years I've had 5 different Skylines. The were all good but the DJ4, DJ5 and the current Duck Dunn have all been superb. I cannot fault the build quality or the neck finish. Now I just have the DD and it sounds awesome however it is a tad heavy, perhaps that why it sounds so good.
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[quote name='Basser Boy' post='762077' date='Mar 2 2010, 06:42 PM']hmm really a bad idea? I originally got the idea because I know flea uses a OBP-1 in his flea bass (or did). Was there anything in particular you didn't like about the sound of the stingray with the obp3?[/quote] It just lacked the punch of a real SR5, and not enough bass. It kind of sanitized the sound.
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When I bought my SR5 it had an OBP3 in it. It just wasn't an SR5 so I now have a real EBMM pre-amp back in there. My advice would be don't do it.
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[quote name='Hubster' post='760254' date='Feb 28 2010, 10:38 PM']So whereabouts are you these days?[/quote] SW Surrey. Moved here when I was 11. Moved around a bit during the 60a and 70s then settled back here. It's very conevnient.
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Welcome. You're almost a neighbour.
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Welcome. I lived my first 10 years in Newquay. It was a small quiet seaside town then but that was about 60 years ago.
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[quote name='biskitbass' post='760187' date='Feb 28 2010, 09:38 PM']Hi there. I always wanted one of these ever since I saw one in Sound Control years ago. I've a *MINT* Hartke 2000 amp head which I'd be happy to trade you? Its 200W, has two jack 8 ohm outputs and is 2U. Interested at all? Graeme[/quote] pm sent.
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help me find the loose connection on my sterling
obbm replied to green's topic in Repairs and Technical
[quote name='green' post='759064' date='Feb 27 2010, 01:18 PM']well, there are only 2 music stores with technicians here in my area. one doesn't even sell basses, just pianos. the other one i guess is a bunch of guys making big money but they don't have a clue. i got some really bad advice there before, so i never would give my bass away to them.... that's why i need to find the problem myself. i soldered electronics before. i'm not a pro, but i have some experience nevertheless. i'm just trying to find out what it could be. it really sounds like there is only one coil running. when i hit the bass, all coils come back again. does that mean it's the pickup ? or could it be outside of the pickup ?[/quote] Could be a bad soldered joint. Check both ends of the wires that connect the board to the switch and check the the joints where the 5 pick-up wires are soldered onto the board. Be very careful with the board as the pads that the wires connect to are small and too much heat will lift them. -
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[quote name='Delberthot' post='758953' date='Feb 27 2010, 11:03 AM']The lack of a manual in the box had me on a search to see if such a thing existed as no one else seems to have been able to locate one. [url="http://www.orangeamps.com/admin/downloads/Terror_Bass_manual_20100205.pdf"]http://www.orangeamps.com/admin/downloads/...al_20100205.pdf[/url] ta da I am still concerned about the speaker outputs though. Does anyone who has one of these know if the output furthest from the 4/8ohm switch doesn't output anything when set to 8ohms? I only get sound from the output nearest the switch[/quote] I have mine apart at the moment and the 2 Speakons are mounted in parallel on a small PC board and there with just 2 wires going to the power amp module. There is no way the switch can have anything to do with the output sockets.
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help me find the loose connection on my sterling
obbm replied to green's topic in Repairs and Technical
[quote name='green' post='758924' date='Feb 27 2010, 10:33 AM']i'm in germany. battery is ok, switch is ok, jack is ok. checked them all. the problem is: when the sound gets weaker, i also get a little bit of hum in serial and paralled mode. which means, that there is only one coil running. in parallel mode, when it occurs, you can hear very clearly that the sound changes from the snappy parallel sound, to a more crowly single coil sound plus hum. i guess, there must be something with the pickup, but how can it break ???[/quote] The Sterling pre-amp is almost the same as the SR5. I've spent a lot of time with these and the input circuitry is quite complex as the signal is routed backwards and forwards between the selector switch and the circuit board. It may be something as simple as a wire coming off the switch. I suspect that to get it properly resolved you will need to get it to a Musicman specialist to have a look, someone who fully understands the pre-amp. -
help me find the loose connection on my sterling
obbm replied to green's topic in Repairs and Technical
Green, where are you? -
[quote name='Hit&Run' post='758667' date='Feb 26 2010, 09:52 PM']I can't believe I didn't pick up on that. I never even thought about it! I had seen one on RS, but I don't know if the jack would fit the preamp box, so I reckon I'll get one from [url="http://cpc.farnell.com/1/1/70759-ac-ac-adaptor-9v-2600ma-me090a260uk-pro-elec.html"]here[/url]. It's not a wall wart, but I don't think that will matter for my intended applications. As always, thanks for the advice. H&R[/quote] That looks like a very good solution, especially with the uncertainty regarding the connector size.
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[quote name='Hit&Run' post='757683' date='Feb 25 2010, 10:41 PM']I've got loads of boss style 9v adapters (admittedly they're from a brother typewriter, BT answering machine etc..) but the jack end is too big to fit the behringer. I've got a couple of variable voltage/variable plug-size adapters that fit the unit, but it won't light up with them. The unit does light up with it's provided adapter & shaver combination. I was thinking it must be the high mA requirements (it says 1300mA on the behringer adapter) that means my 'variable' adapters don't light it up.[/quote] The clue here is in the title AC/AC. Most 9-volt adaptors put out 9-volts dc. What your unit needs is AC, basically a transformer that puts out 9-volts AC. The supplied unit obviously puts out AC but all your other adaptors put out DC, hence no worky. CPC or RS ccomponents have them in wall-wart form.
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Interesting username history.
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Bassist Magazine
obbm replied to obbm's topic in Accessories & Other Musically Related Items For Sale
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[quote name='Musicman20' post='755966' date='Feb 24 2010, 11:58 AM']Can anyone suggest a nice set of headphones for using when playing along to tracks on my RH450? I use an old set of Pioneers which seem ok...not sure what ill get by upgrading but I thought id ask. They are literally 14 years old but actually still look new! Anyway, I think budget is no more than £60/70... Cheaper would be nice! But I dont want to compromise on quality. Thanks[/quote] Slightly over your budget but I recently got a pair of Sony MDR-XB700 headphones. Seriously good clear bass and very comfortable to wear. Perhaps you could get to try some in a Sony Centre somewhere.
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The very, very first gig (1962) was with: Home-made bass Phillips tape recorder (as pre-amp) Household radiogram (power amp and speakers). The first serious rig (1963) was: Framus Star Bass, small bodied, 30-inch scale. Linear 30 amp Home-built copy of Marshall 4x12 using Bakers Group 25 speakers from RCS in Croydon. Current: Orange AD200B + Epifani UL212 MB F1 + Epifani UL112/T112NYC
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[quote name='OldGit' post='755324' date='Feb 23 2010, 07:02 PM']I'm adding a jack and socket connection in a combo so I can use the speaker from another head if needed. The question is: which side of the socket has the wire that connects to the speaker positive terminal? The tip or ring? Thanks[/quote] I would suggest +ve to the tip however if it is only one speaker and one head then it doesn't matter. If you have more than one speaker then they need to be wired the same to be in phase (but then you knew that).
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Rack Mount (2U) Effects Proecssor. I bought this as the front end of a rack system when I started playing again in the early 90s as it has both tube and solid state pre-amps as well as a very comprehensive effects section which is easily programmable. I have just retrieved it from my son and seems to be working OK although I suspect that the CMOS battery needs replacing (I'll have a look). I couldn't possibly explain all that it does but there are details [url="http://www.artproaudio.com/products.asp?type=124&cat=18&id=32"]here[/url] and at the bottom of that page is a link to the comprehensive manual. This is the original Nightbass and not the SE version. These come up for sale so rarely that I have no idea what it's worth but I'd rather trade/swap for something interesting. Try me and see. I can only say no if it doesn't take my fancy. I've checked it out and the only thing that I can find wrong is that the CMOS battery needs replacing (I have a couple on order) and that the lower half of the top row of the LCD display does not work. It has been like that since I bought it and in no way effects the working of the unit, especially the patch editing as that is all done on the lower row. I have had some interest and would be happy to sell for £100 plus postage or will include a cup of tea if collected.
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There are also: Alembic F1X pre-amp BBE BMAX-T pre-amp Peavey MAX pre-amp
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[quote name='stevekendal' post='751767' date='Feb 20 2010, 01:27 PM']I have a RAH1000 with a burned-out power section asnd have been using it just as a pre amp cos I cant aFFORD REPAIRS. gOING CHEAP if you want it. Steve.[/quote] Perfect for a BFC.
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I have no idea how old this is. It has been in my son's possession for several years but an expanding family means they need the space and so it has to go one way or another. It seems to contain 3 x10-inch drivers and still works. At one time it might have been an active speaker as there is a hole in the back which might have been for a power amp. H: 38", W: 28", D: 14". Impedance is anyone's guess. Offered here before I put in the local Freecycle. 20/02 - More info. Had the back off and it has 3 x 10inch drivers, 8-ohm, all wired in parallel, so 2.66-ohms.
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[quote name='slobluesine' post='748718' date='Feb 17 2010, 05:36 PM']Mike Dimin, head of marketing for EA[/quote] Well they don't publish the fact and I never believe a Marketing Department, I've worked in one.