obbm
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Everything posted by obbm
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[quote name='Hit&Run' post='757683' date='Feb 25 2010, 10:41 PM']I've got loads of boss style 9v adapters (admittedly they're from a brother typewriter, BT answering machine etc..) but the jack end is too big to fit the behringer. I've got a couple of variable voltage/variable plug-size adapters that fit the unit, but it won't light up with them. The unit does light up with it's provided adapter & shaver combination. I was thinking it must be the high mA requirements (it says 1300mA on the behringer adapter) that means my 'variable' adapters don't light it up.[/quote] The clue here is in the title AC/AC. Most 9-volt adaptors put out 9-volts dc. What your unit needs is AC, basically a transformer that puts out 9-volts AC. The supplied unit obviously puts out AC but all your other adaptors put out DC, hence no worky. CPC or RS ccomponents have them in wall-wart form.
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Interesting username history.
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Bassist Magazine
obbm replied to obbm's topic in Accessories & Other Musically Related Items For Sale
Still available. Last chance before Freecycle. -
[quote name='Musicman20' post='755966' date='Feb 24 2010, 11:58 AM']Can anyone suggest a nice set of headphones for using when playing along to tracks on my RH450? I use an old set of Pioneers which seem ok...not sure what ill get by upgrading but I thought id ask. They are literally 14 years old but actually still look new! Anyway, I think budget is no more than £60/70... Cheaper would be nice! But I dont want to compromise on quality. Thanks[/quote] Slightly over your budget but I recently got a pair of Sony MDR-XB700 headphones. Seriously good clear bass and very comfortable to wear. Perhaps you could get to try some in a Sony Centre somewhere.
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The very, very first gig (1962) was with: Home-made bass Phillips tape recorder (as pre-amp) Household radiogram (power amp and speakers). The first serious rig (1963) was: Framus Star Bass, small bodied, 30-inch scale. Linear 30 amp Home-built copy of Marshall 4x12 using Bakers Group 25 speakers from RCS in Croydon. Current: Orange AD200B + Epifani UL212 MB F1 + Epifani UL112/T112NYC
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[quote name='OldGit' post='755324' date='Feb 23 2010, 07:02 PM']I'm adding a jack and socket connection in a combo so I can use the speaker from another head if needed. The question is: which side of the socket has the wire that connects to the speaker positive terminal? The tip or ring? Thanks[/quote] I would suggest +ve to the tip however if it is only one speaker and one head then it doesn't matter. If you have more than one speaker then they need to be wired the same to be in phase (but then you knew that).
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Rack Mount (2U) Effects Proecssor. I bought this as the front end of a rack system when I started playing again in the early 90s as it has both tube and solid state pre-amps as well as a very comprehensive effects section which is easily programmable. I have just retrieved it from my son and seems to be working OK although I suspect that the CMOS battery needs replacing (I'll have a look). I couldn't possibly explain all that it does but there are details [url="http://www.artproaudio.com/products.asp?type=124&cat=18&id=32"]here[/url] and at the bottom of that page is a link to the comprehensive manual. This is the original Nightbass and not the SE version. These come up for sale so rarely that I have no idea what it's worth but I'd rather trade/swap for something interesting. Try me and see. I can only say no if it doesn't take my fancy. I've checked it out and the only thing that I can find wrong is that the CMOS battery needs replacing (I have a couple on order) and that the lower half of the top row of the LCD display does not work. It has been like that since I bought it and in no way effects the working of the unit, especially the patch editing as that is all done on the lower row. I have had some interest and would be happy to sell for £100 plus postage or will include a cup of tea if collected. -
There are also: Alembic F1X pre-amp BBE BMAX-T pre-amp Peavey MAX pre-amp
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[quote name='stevekendal' post='751767' date='Feb 20 2010, 01:27 PM']I have a RAH1000 with a burned-out power section asnd have been using it just as a pre amp cos I cant aFFORD REPAIRS. gOING CHEAP if you want it. Steve.[/quote] Perfect for a BFC.
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I have no idea how old this is. It has been in my son's possession for several years but an expanding family means they need the space and so it has to go one way or another. It seems to contain 3 x10-inch drivers and still works. At one time it might have been an active speaker as there is a hole in the back which might have been for a power amp. H: 38", W: 28", D: 14". Impedance is anyone's guess. Offered here before I put in the local Freecycle. 20/02 - More info. Had the back off and it has 3 x 10inch drivers, 8-ohm, all wired in parallel, so 2.66-ohms.
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[quote name='slobluesine' post='748718' date='Feb 17 2010, 05:36 PM']Mike Dimin, head of marketing for EA[/quote] Well they don't publish the fact and I never believe a Marketing Department, I've worked in one.
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[quote name='slobluesine' post='748687' date='Feb 17 2010, 05:15 PM']seems its NOT a good idea to run an amp at 2ohms, so why do they make them to run at 2ohms?[/quote] Where did you see that the EA Doubler runs at 2-ohms? All I can find in the spec is 550-watts @ 4-ohms and 310-watts @ 8-ohms.
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[quote name='slobluesine' post='748628' date='Feb 17 2010, 04:32 PM']... seems ohms law is a load of ole bollox then[/quote] What makes you think that?
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[quote name='slobluesine' post='748441' date='Feb 17 2010, 01:53 PM']what are the benefits for my amp running at 2ohms instead of 8?[/quote] What amp have you got John? if it's a valve amp then there is not a problem if the output transformer has a 2-ohm tap Solid-state amps are a different matter. Even though manufacturers say they will run at 2-ohm it does put a huge heat load on the output stage. I think the general concensus is that there are no benefits running at 2-ohms, only potential problems.
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It's all down to Ohm's Law.
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[quote name='Delberthot' post='746114' date='Feb 15 2010, 05:04 PM']Thought that [/quote] Considering that the jack plug is, in theory, only rated for low power, why would you want to use one for a 500-watt amp?
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[quote name='Delberthot' post='746095' date='Feb 15 2010, 04:55 PM']Do these only have speakon connections or are they the combined ones where you can also plug in 1/4" jack cables as well?[/quote] Mine is Speakon only.
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[quote name='thebassman' post='745028' date='Feb 14 2010, 05:45 PM']I think these guys are kidding you. The amp will run perfect with an 8ohm cab. The only effect will be the amp will output half the stated power. If you double the ohms you half the output power. You only need watch out for matching cabs with lower ohm rating than the amp can output. Cheers thebassman[/quote] Sorry but that only applies to solid-state amps, it doesn't apply to valve amps. In a valve amp the anode load of the output valves is determined directly by the impedance of the speaker load. This is why they have different output transformer taps in order to ensure that the valves always see the correct load. If you have an impedance missmatch the valves will have an incorrect load, either draw too much or too less current and not work at their designed section of the load curve.
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[quote name='josh3184' post='743531' date='Feb 12 2010, 09:48 PM']Sterling necks are to Stringrays what Jazzes are to Precisions essentially [/quote] Don't think that applies to the 5-string versions. I was advised that the Stingray 5 and Sterling 5 necks are the same, it's just the bodies, pick-ups, etc. that are different.
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[quote name='Lfalex v1.1' post='741857' date='Feb 11 2010, 11:31 AM']Thanks for the responses so far. I don't think my MM 'Ray 5 has a circuit in it! It's a 1990, and has no phantom coil, and an Alnico-poled pick-up. I guess it's too old...[/quote] According to the circuit I have for a pre-92 there should be a 3.3K resistor across contacts of the selector swich to compensate for the lack of the phantom coil.
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[quote name='Silent Fly' post='741363' date='Feb 10 2010, 07:38 PM']I think the Music Man StingRay 5 and the Sterling use a circuit that compensate the volume variations between single-coil, parallel and series.[/quote] They do:
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[quote name='benthos' post='741207' date='Feb 10 2010, 05:12 PM']Hi, Interesting, and thanks for the reply. So I take it you don't miss the sound of the original neck, or is it the case that the sonic difference was too small to be a factor compared to the benefits of stability etc.?[/quote] To be quite honest I can no longer remember what it was like originally however it is still sounds like an SR5. This bass has had many changes. The pick-up is now a Nordstrand and this spec is the one that works for me. Best thing to do is try one and see if it works for you.
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[quote name='benthos' post='741035' date='Feb 10 2010, 02:22 PM']Hi All, Are there any opinions/experiences out there putting a graphite neck on a Stingray? Does this enhance the sound and stability of the instrument or is this largely a cosmetic upgrade? Ideally I'd like to hear the difference between the original and graphite neck, so if anyone knows where I might find some audio clips that would be perfect.[/quote] I've had mine for over 5 years now. Done many, many gigs with it and it is my favourite gigging bass. Superb neck, crystal clear tone and very punchy, right throough the band. Rarely needs tuning. Mine has side LEDs which almost doubled the cost. I have never regretted doing the mod and will never sell it. Sorry I don't have any recordings.
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The international standard is shown at [url="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/19-inch_rack"]http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/19-inch_rack[/url]. Those SWR mounting holes certainly do not comply and look like a hangover from the old US standard. What is the actual spacing between them and from the top and bottom of the bracket? I suggest you find a case with sliding, completely adjustable fixings.
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Having had a look at Boschma it would seem that their rack strip does not comply with the international standards as it doesn't have the intermediate holes. Then again from what you say the amp wants to use the intermediate holes which is a US thing and goes against accepted custom and practice. As already stated you either make new holes in the rack strip, make new holes in the amp ears or get a new case. Historically there were 2 standards, EIAJ (Japan/USA) and DIN/BSS for Europe. Now there is one but not everyone complies. I had an Ashdown LG1000 a year ago and the holes in the rack brackets were non-compliant. I told them but they ignord me as usual.
