obbm

[quote name='Kongo' post='494456' date='May 21 2009, 04:51 PM']Oh hell! The new Trace Elliot 12 band heads are like that too! I don't quite understand it so much... [/quote] There's nothing unusual about that really. It's no different to using a rack-mount valve pre-amp (Ampeg,Alembic, etc.) and a rack-mount solid-state power amp (QSC, Yamaha, etc).

Fender did produce Ps with jazz necks from the Fullerton factory in the 70s. I have a '78P to exactly that spec. I keep considering selling it but I would guess it's out of your budget.

[quote name='john_the_bass' post='493960' date='May 21 2009, 09:27 AM']Oh flippin heck, it took me ages to learn all that I suppose it would make sense to be a hybrid as to knock out 500w would take what, 10 KT88s? That would be one very large and probably very heavy amp![/quote] Sorry to spoil your day but life's like that. Just when you get you head around something the goalposts move.

[quote name='john_the_bass' post='493942' date='May 21 2009, 08:47 AM']I believe (having learned on this forum) that it doesn't matter, so long as you connect the right impedance cabinets to the right output - I'm assuming the amp will have 4, 8 and 16 ohm outputs - you should in theory get max power with any of those but you must connect the right impedance to the matching output. I am prepared to be corrected [/quote] Just to confuse you John, the Bass Terror is a hybrid. Although it has a valve pre-amp, the output stage is solid state and so should be regarded as such for output power and speaker impedance. I've searched and been unable to find a proper specification for it anywhere.

[quote name='jakesbass' post='488280' date='May 14 2009, 09:39 PM']Dimbo question here for you lot that are wire headed nerkoids. The switch on my Alembic pre amp is so far into the back of my 19" rack that it's a real pain to reach it. (the amp is only about 6 inches deep) It is a valve pre and I've always assumed that the switch inside would cut the power supply in some way that is acceptable to the electronics (I assume cos knowledge on this is not in my possesion) is switching off at the mains (whilst leaving the on/off switch in the on position) a bad idea as per my assumption or does that method of cutting the power supply effectively do the same as the on/off switch? I would be most grateful to hear some informed opinion on this. Cheers Jake[/quote] Doing what you want to do should have zero detrimental effect. I had an Alembic F1X in a rack which was plugged into a rear mounted power strip. The rear on/off was left on permanently and came on whenever I plugged the power strip in. It's not like a valve power amp that has separate switches for the heaters and the HT, there is just the one switch which does everything. They are proven good old fashioned technology.

[quote name='molan' post='452091' date='Apr 2 2009, 12:04 AM']Nice one Dave, Shame I'm out of the area on Saturday I could have come over to see you - make sure you keep us posted on how you get on & any future gigs [/quote] Next one is Friday, May 15th at The White Hart in Tongham, nr Aldershot, just off the A331 Blackwater Valley Road.

[quote name='The_D' post='484386' date='May 10 2009, 04:55 PM']Are you OBBM in disguise?! [/quote] Not guilty. BTW as a matter of principle I never comment on competitive products. It's just not professional.

[quote name='Marky L' post='484824' date='May 11 2009, 09:27 AM']Just thinking, have Fender ever produced a Jazz with a maple fretboard? I can't think that I have ever knowingly seen one, they always seem to be rosewood. Or maybe it exists on a non Fender Jazz? Or maybe I just never noticed one. But if not, why not? Would it give an interesting tonal quailty to a Jazz that's useable? Just pondering M.[/quote] Lakland Jo Osborn and Daryl Jones Jazzes are available with maple fretboards.

It is comproses 2 separate 500-watt power stages, each of which need sto have a 4-ohm load in order to get the max out of it. How you make up that 4-ohm load is immaterial as long as they are 4-ohms each.

I'm revisiting my DJ4 and I would be interested to know: Do you run passive or active with a J-Retro ? Which strings do you find best and what gauge?

Bon Voyage Steve

Interesting thread Al. Once upon a time I felt the same but I got over it. I've shared Jam stages with players who are infinitely better than me and some who are a lot worse. It used to worry me but not any more. It gets the adrenalin flowing and really makes you think on your feet which is no bad thing. It makes you watch, listen and follow. At the end of the day I am what I am and I do what I do. What you see is what you get. There are thousands and thousands of people out there who can't do what you or I do, and further thousands who think "I wish I could play bass" but never had the motivation to get on with it. You can and you do, and very well by all accounts. [/ramble]

[quote name='DanFold' post='472683' date='Apr 26 2009, 02:17 PM'].. i will just get a second AD200B and run em both into my cabs (get one of them splitter boxes you can plug heads into)[/quote] Sounds interesting. Got any more information?

[quote name='DanFold' post='472437' date='Apr 25 2009, 11:24 PM']Can i plug into these at the same time? I use guitar pedals for my distortion, they have a mix knob on them to keep most of the signal, but i still don't get as much of the bass signal through as i'd like, so... I was going to get a Y splitter box or an AB Y box, to go straight into my amp AND go through the distortion pedals then into my amp. Will this work or am i just dreaming of cheap and cheerful ways to solve my problems? Cheers. Dan.[/quote] Why not just try it. You won't damage anything. I plug my bass into the active input and a tuner into the passive input. It works so I assume that the two inputs remain conected in parallel but at different sensitivities.

At the risk of repeating myself: Currently: and Previously:

This was what I used 4 years ago. A 13-Amp strip bolted to a 1U blank panel. Then I bought an excellent 1U power strip from Introdelta. As the result of experience I'm a great believer in using 13-Amp sockets. They are more flexible than IEC. You can plug wall-warts straight in. You can plug other equipment striaght in. 13A is the UK standard. Almost all equipment comes with a 13A power cord, however IECs are great for 19-inch racks in fixed installations.

Trace Elliot did a 4x12 to go with the V series amps. Bergantino have just introduced the NV412. Sound City did a 4x12 but not for 500-watts.