acidbass

Tried different power cables, extension cables etc etc on the gig and it didn't work at all, so it went back today!

Bought a Cioks DC7 and mounted it underneath my Pedaltrain Nano+ to power the HX Stomp. Hours of geeky pedalboard laying out and cable management, took her to a big gig at the weekend in front of 6,000 and...nothing! The power supply didn't power up! Luckily I had brought the HX Stomp supply along with me, but hugely disappointed in the Cioks. I have asked for a replacement in case it's just that particular one that was faulty. And no, I didn't test it before I went to the gig lol, I just assumed a £200 power supply would work out of the box!

Huge money for a Mex. Why not just buy a Sire?

I find Bass Direct to not only be the cheapest for my chosen brand (DR) but they also land on the doorstep the next day. Recommended

If any of you guys have your Stomp mounted to a Pedaltrain Nano+ board, here's a great hardcase to protect your investment: https://www.cases-and-enclosures.co.uk/roc-cases-flight-case-silver-with-foam-insert-l550xw220xh175mm

Hi all Just bought the same case as recommended above at the following link: https://www.cases-and-enclosures.co.uk/roc-cases-flight-case-silver-with-foam-insert-l550xw220xh175mm Perfect! Thanks for the recommendation

Fantastic! Will catch up on this later in the weekend. Thanks!

I use the High and Low Cut block, cutting all lows below 50hz and all highs above 7khz. Just gets rid of the unnecessary rumble/sparkle. I find with the Low Cut especially that speakers don't have to work as hard, and therefore it seems like my amp has more power!

For me, drop C# standard can be done with standard gauges and just a good setup. Put your strings on, tune them down and let them sit for a day to allow the truss rod a chance to readjust to the less tension. Then begin your setup! NB - I probably wouldn't go lighter than 45-105 in any event. Good luck!

I use my Helix in front of my amps all the time and just use it as an effects box really. Each one of my patches include a High and Low Cut EQ block, a compressor block and a Zeroamp block with varying degrees of intensity depending on the gig. Tone for days!

Does anyone who uses the Mosky dual footswitch have any recommendations for a low profile straight stereo TRS cable? The only ones I can find seem to be angled, which isn't really ideal for my board.

Get him to try IEMs and I guarantee he'll never go back Also, I know it might not be recommended, but 'one ear in, one ear out' does work to retain a bit of the live feel You can also buy in ear phones with ambient filters which let in some of the outside noise.

I like the Rochester set at 4:1 ratio

Played quite a few so far since lockdown ended (maybe 12) - thought I didn't miss it but I did!

Always loved his live tone, so crunchy

I like them - put a set on my Jazz and they are super bright. Not quite as tense as my usual DR Lo Riders which resulted in me raising the action a tad, but a lovely all round tone.

For most of the gigs I do, this is just not practical, hence why front porting (in my opinion) sounds a lot better in most rooms.

Well yes, but science doesn't matter when something sounds better to the customer in a real world environment.

It makes a sonic difference to some!

A port at the rear might sound the same, but the fact it's at the rear means there is effectively an object in the way of it and your ear (i.e. the cabinet itself). It's also further away from your ear. Could either of these explain why front ported cabs sound better to me?

Front porting always sounds better to my ears in a live gig situation though. The bottom end is surely more audible when it's coming from the front of a cab versus the back? Especially when a cab is placed against a wall (which happens lots of times at indoor gigs)

What's the logic behind this? I have always preferred the sound of front ported cabs - much more trouser flapping bottom end spilling out the front of it and no issues with boominess when placed beside a wall etc.

HI all Does anyone have that WinISD program who could spec me some new drivers for my 4ohm Aguilar DB410 cabinet? The stock drivers are rather poor, a couple are rattly and I think I will replace all four. The Aguilar replacements are both hard to source and expensive so I would be interested in alternatives from reputable speaker manufacturers. Thanks in advance! Danny