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Luke Around - Red Hot Chilli Peppers

Use the Force - Jamiroquai

dunno, if it's made in the same factory as other (more expensive) basses then it's quicker (and therefore cheaper) to use the same tooling for everything.

I think they will be good combination of scale lengths and playability. People often rave about 'great sounding B' on their 35" scale basses, 34" seems the sweet spot for an E, and people seem to like short scale Basses partly for playability and the warmer sound from the higher strings - so hopefully 32-35 is a winner. The 33-35 on the Ibanez EHB worked well for me sound-wise and is comfortable whereas the 34-37 on the Combustion felt a bit like sacrificing some comfort with reach, weight, overall length (and perhaps a 34" G isnt ideal, I thought it was fine though) all done mostly for that B string - the B was very good, but it comes at a cost.

It’s a 1st gen Squier Affinity so I can’t imagine it has something as fancy as a compound radius, but thank you for the heads up. 😊

Thanks, that would be great.

I'm reasonably certain you are correct in your wiring assumptions. If not then, I assume you'll come down and fix it for me

Gf at and creamy sounds like big muff kinda territory

Patience is key here. If it's a rosewood (or similar) fretboard then be VERY careful when removing the frets, as it splinters very easily. Heat them up with a soldering iron to let them lift themselves out of the grooves before carefully pulling them out. Get a radius block too for the smoothing/sanding after the gaps have been filled in - these come in various sizes, so check with a radius gauge first - you might need two, as some boards have a compound radius (slightly different radius closer to the nut than the bridge).

Force Ten - Rush

I don't really have any preference when it comes how the neck is attached. I'm fairly flexible on profile too, not to fussed on radius. I'm happy on my Jazz with its 38mm neck and Rick with its 44mm neck. If it is on the chunkier side at the nut then ideally it'd be slimmer back to front, rather than a baseball bat, just to keep things manageable. In an ideal world the neck will be glossed or painted, but it's not a deal breaker. I've seen a Fender Player Plus PJ, which very much looks like a P bass, but is acceptable as it's a metallic snot green. No idea what they're like though and I've read mixed things. I've also seen a Sterling 34 in seafoam sparkle that is pretty tempting. Headless might be a bit too far, one step at a time, eh?

The SP1 is doing the multiscale thing - but on the treble side more than the bass, so the higher strings will sound softer and warmer than a 34, and definitely a 35" bass (which can be quite pingy on high strings) I am expecting a decent B, but not as good as a 37".

Well, the intonation on that GG Mapleglo Ric has been fixed... 🤣 and there have been a few other modifications too, including swapping out the knobs for larger 1" diameter ones, like those on my 2023.

Or the old Kestrel basses. I've been looking for one for ages. Plus of course my seemingly endless quest for a Manson Explorer... You also very rarely see Gibson Victory basses in the UK.

I must say, that remix is pretty damned good. Well done Red.

Hi all, Thinking of ripping the frets out of my Squier Affinity jazz, I’m pretty sure some of you have done this too, so please share any hints/tips/do’s/don’t’s. Also looking for recommendations for somewhere to purchase wood veneer for the fret slots. Ta very much in advance. 😎

My latest bass

Guns Of Navarone - The Skatalites