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  2. Agreed and I'm not plugging anything into B but when you plug into the A input and engage A+B button using the switch to go from A > A+B there is a massive volume drop which you can't compensate for (it literally feels like going from 10 down to 1 or 2). Effectively with a single instrument it is a single channel pedal and trying to add channel B to add drive (or clean) reduces the volume to unusable levels. I'm now off to plug basses into A and B to see what we get.
  3. I had a Spectorcore Fretless, a great bass, very versatile.
  4. I don’t know Lee, but happy to help, donated. Hope he manages to hang on to one!
  5. Hi. It says that Ch B can be added to Ch A using the A+B button and selecting A/B It says you can use a second instrument on Ch B through input 2 but it doesn't say you can monitor input 1 on Ch B So with the instrument in input 1 you can have Ch A, and Ch A+B That's what I'm working out from the manual?
  6. MXR M85 bass distortion. Great distortion pedal in good condition. Velcro on the bottom. £90 delivered. Any questions just ask 👍
  7. To avoid the drop outs you'd be better off avoiding the 2.4 systems as that is where most of the issues occur, however some folk manage perfectly well with them. If you want low/no latency you really want to be avoiding the cheapie (sub £60) systems... with the caveat that plenty people manage with the latency (be aware latency is cumulative if you have other digital systems in your pathway; inc radio trans/rec, desks etc).
  8. Looks like a rather uncomfortable body shape, a slab with no arm contour.
  9. Any recommendations for my playing situations? Which are (a) pub cover bands, (b) jam nights and open mics, (c) rehearsals and (d) home learning and practices. I'm on a budget and looking at £300 max for systems with no latency issues and reasonable audio that doesn't break up or sound shitty on the low strings. A little hiss would be ok. I'm looking at an XVive type system for (b) and (c) and a rackable system for (a) and (d)** A wireless system might come in handy as I've just got an analogue splitter/mixer to use as a band IEM mixer and we all need to get feeds from the headphone amp it feeds. **though I've got a wired setup as a backup with a MA400 personal monitor amp fed PRE from my pedal's DI out and POST into a DI box, which feeds my stage amp. FOH can take the PRE or POST from either thru port. I've read mixed reviews of the XVive U4. A sax-playing mate has one, but she doesn't like the cut-outs in a busy gig.
  10. Fender Tone Stack, no? Like an Alembic Preamp. But with rocket power bolted on.
  11. Judging from his vocal mic, it sounds like quite a bit of reverb going on?
  12. Hi Ian, TLDR: recommend upgrading your IEMs. Plenty of options: in my case I've found KZ ZARs work very well and at around £50 from Ali Express they're excellent value. Combine with a decent preamp pedal and a tailored mix from your desk and you'll be good to go! The desk we both use (A&H CQ18T) has very decent preamps and the quality of sound was a step up from our Soundcraft MTK12 which isn't bad, by any means. My first IEMs were also Shure 215s. I'd say they were ok (say = 4/10). I subsequently upgraded to Shure 315s (= 5/10). Having read through the first 300 posts (!) on the IEM bible thread, I got some KZ ZS10s which seemed to be the BC go to value model at the time. The KZs with their multi-drivers were a definite step up in articulation and clarity over the Shures (= 6.5/10), but a little harsh in the treble and I found them a little wearing, and I was half tempted to give up on IEMs at that point. I then came across KZ ZARs IEMs, which are double the price of the ZS10s (but still amazing value at £50 on Ali Express), but have been worth every penny for me. Fuller more rounded response (= 8/10). The CQ18T also allows each of us to have tailored mixes, and I've found the combination of a decent preamp pedal and tailored mix from the desk (with the bass guitar boosted in my personal mix) has made IEMs work very well for me. Hope that helps!
  13. My Dingwall arrives tomorrow! So excited! I went for the metallic black instead of the white, good thing the folks in bassdirect are amazing. Are the strap buttons in these basses Dunlop? I have a Dunlop straplok on my strap installed so it would be good if they come with it.
  14. Excellent news. Always glad to be able to help. 🙂
  15. I've read the manual, I've watched the videos, so I'm assuming it isn't me using it wrong but I need to check... Plugged into input A, nothing plugged into input B, volume at 90%, Boost down and all buttons out/EQ centred. The preamp has a nice healthy output and tone. Hit channel B button and there is a massive volume drop (huge, almost inaudible). Back to channel A, engage the A+B button and switch to B (the 2 channels should combine), massive volume drop. I can increase the Drive setting but channel B is then full on Drive and not much volume, flick back to A and it is back to a healthy setting. In summary, whenever channel B is engaged there is a huge drop in output. I've tried engaging various buttons etc but nothing changes that basic issue; neither does increasing the Boost, that simply makes A even louder. Is this unit defective or am I missing something?
  16. These are the ones i have as backup, and my guitarist also has a set. https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B0B9W5S4N8?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title
  17. With thanks to Steve @Steve Browning for donating the box and Dave @obbm for modifying it this is now solved, I've just run it at low volume at home and it works just fine, looking forward to running it slightly louder tomorrow in the big room 👍
  18. I suspect the box does the same thing albeit with the advantage of being able to cope with both speakon and jack cables in a number of combinations 👍
  19. I totally agree that there's respective merits to traditional Fender-style style Jazz Basses and more modern active versions. I think a lot depends on how, or indeed if, you use the Sadowsky preamp. With a two band boost-only preamp there is a tendency for players to boost treble and bass, and the inevitable consequences is that it makes Sadowsky basses sound more recessed in the midrange. Nothing necessarily wrong with that, but as you quite rightly point out, it's not what you want in certain situations. I'm not a huge fan of that modern scooped-out, thump and sizzle Jazz Bass tone. Marcus Miller makes it sound great but it's tiresome that so many players just want to copy that tone. For years I shied away from active Jazz-style basses for exactly that reason. However, it's quite possible to EQ a Sadowsky so it sounds anything but scooped. Not least of all, those basses sound good either in passive mode or active but with no added boost or just a little bit. Or add some mids externally and boost the bass or treble (but not both) depending on whether you want to be deep or bright and bit more gritty. You can also attenuate with the VTC. There's lots of ways approach it. Also, being able to pan between the two pickups on a Sadowsky opens up a lot of tonal possibilities that can be harder to achieve on a conventional passive Jazz with two volume controls.
  20. "100V; 120V; 230V; 240V – 50/60Hz (tension set inside the equipment) WARNING: The MARKBASS CASA is manufactured to be used in the country where they have been sold, and it is factory preset to that country’s voltage. So make sure you’re sending the correct voltage to your amp before you connect it to the AC power." I realise that EU is mostly 230V and the UK is still actually 240V but that the allowable margins are quite wide (about 230 to 250V in the UK) but I wonder if there would be any warranty cover for power related issues. I'd like to try one - looks very much like the old Hartke HA3500 that Stu used for years.
  21. Has anyone tried direct alternatives to the XVive U4/U45, ie with a small rechargeable transmitter with XLR or 1/4" connectors?
  22. Hello all. I know you’re all much more knowledgeable than I am about this, so here goes… I have a 79 Stingray. Looks and feels great. I love the neck. Probably one of the nicest to handle. I bought it, the next day I went into the studio. Used it on a song that was released as a single and it sounds amazing on that track and the tone just gives the track an edge. However, I’ve never managed to get a sound that suits that song and the others on the set. When I play live, I can get tones that cover this track and all the other songs in the set. Could the strings be part of the reason for the lack of versatility? The strings (that came with it) are probably thinner than any I’ve ever used before. I’m looking for string (and gauge) recommendations to get the most out of the Stingray. or Is it the case that the Stingray isn’t the one?
  23. Brand new account messaging about a purchase? I had doubts, but Jamie sent over a link to his eBay account and I was able to check his rating on there before receiving payment and sending my Chase Bliss Clean to him. The interaction went smoothly.
  24. Sold a Demogorgon Fuzz to Patrick in May 2025. Very good communication, and a nice easy transaction. Would sell him other things from my cupboard in a heartbeat.
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