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  2. I used to have a Peli alike case for mine. I almost liked the case more than the bass! Those wheels.
  3. This is very true - total disaster not confirmed yet, I just assumed it.
  4. You have my sympathy. It does point to that speaker not being suitable for, well, anything, except as a large and very expensive paperweight.
  5. Hot Hot Hot - The Cure
  6. Screws are #4-40 x 1 1/4" (it says in the EBMM parts description). https://www.westfieldfasteners.co.uk/A2-ScrewBolt-PhilFillister-UNCoarse0.1120.html has them 1 3/8" long which would need cutting down slightly (for which a nut would be highly advisable, put nut on first, cut bolt, take nut off so it reforms the end of the thread). Edit: Head description is Philips Filister, thread type is UNC.
  7. Apologies for the slow reply, gigs and stuff! Here’s a few close ups of mine in her case with dimensions. Let me know if you need anymore info.
  8. Where exactly did the wire break? Do you have a photo? If it still visible, you can solder a new wire to it, it's an easy task.
  9. shame about the neck because it's absolutely gorgeous, sure someone could sort it out though and might be worth it for that finish
  10. The above still stands. 😁 I've often thought that I could happily sell all the other stuff and only have a collection of Yamahas. But other stuff is fun too 😉.
  11. Hot Sauce - Thomas Dolby
  12. AlexMUK

    De-Fret??

    Ahhh... sorry, not too familiar with Yamaha basses, so I missed that!.
  13. Lovely bass, just posted on alembic website forum. Can't hurt to put it into a focussed group. All the best with the sale.
  14. Eek! Thanks very much - I didn't realise this - that changes the game further. I'd no idea that the grounding wire was connected via the mounting bush. The search for alternatives just became more urgent!
  15. I blew the same driver with a LMII (8ohm nominal load) and the volume at what I thought was a sensible level. Looked online to check how much replacements were (paid about £55 for it new back in the day) and had a bit of a cry.
  16. If you can find out the dimensions (almost certain to be imperial because, well, Americans) you could likely order a set from the UK. I generally use Boltbase on eBay.
  17. I was thinking in terms of relative measurements rather than absolute ones - an inexpensive and easily reproducible means of comparing amps, at distortion levels that those of us that don't like overdriven amps are happy with and at those that those who do like overdriven amps are happy with.
  18. Agree, Ashdowns best cab, loved mine.
  19. I very much doubt EB makes those. They’re probably a standard screw available at a hardware store.
  20. A new one from Don
  21. Furthermore, I totally get the desire to avoid replacing the bridge wire, because it's a PITA. On a Gibson three point bridge (even with an aftermarket replacement), to replace the bridge wire, you need to remove the bridge mounting bush out of the bass to run a new wire then reinsert the mounting bush, which will probably make it looser (as it's purely friction based), so yeah it's a pisser.
  22. I'm fairly sure they're stainless steel. I think they pre-date the nickel option.
  23. Thanks both and what a lovely Ripper! This might offer a solution - it is a very small gap - though as noted, I'd still need to lift the bridge slightly to ensure good contact. I'll drop Bow Finishing a note too to get a view on the hardness of the finish and likelihood of removing a chunk of it.
  24. They're usually ok unless you keep your amp in the garage.
  25. Welcome. And in answer to your question, in-ear buds are fine for bass. For further information, you can spend a couple of days reading the IEM bible thread or just read the first post in it.
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