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I’ve missed out on several basses for not much money but was already stretched as it was so it couldn’t happen. I always just hope that one day I will be in the right place right time, but in the meantime enjoy what I have.

You could add some water to the titebond if it's too thick to run into the crack, maybe a little "pumping" with the headstock to let the glue run into the crack. Edited 22 minutes ago by RonC Pretty much what these guys are saying. Personally, I would not use typical luthier adhesives (they are for joints you want to open up again in future). I would get hold of a top quality aliphatic adhesive like Super 'Phatic. This a super thin, super strong adhesive with excellent penetrating powers. Open up the crack as much as you can with safety and allow lots of Super 'Phatic in - it will wick right into the joint. Leave it for about a minute, then clamp the joint closed (have all your clamps and weights ready before you start). It's NOT a superglue so won't haze the finish and you can clean up with a damp cloth as soon as the crack is closed. The set adhesive is utterly waterproof - I have repaired ceramic plates with it, and they have survived years of use and even going through the dishwasher afterwards. https://deluxematerials.co.uk/products/super-phatic

I've done plenty of those type of repairs and to date they've all remained stable.

Nice bass.

Hi everyone, Just ulling my '82 Peavey TNT130 to bits to put new capacitors in and pulled the speaker so I could examine the back of it. It is definately not the original speaker, doesn't look like any Peavey speaker I can find. It is really heavy, cast aluminium, I tested it and it is 4ohms. Thanks in advance.

I would take it to someone else, that looks like it closes up just fine so shouldn't be a particularly difficult job.

Jazz basses are innately lower output. I never have any problems as I adjust the gain to compensate almost without thinking.

Finalised the current layout for my second board: TC PolyTune Mini3 -> Fuzzdog Mr Creosote DIY kit (Phat Phuk B)-> Schu-Tone FLOverdrive -> MXR Bass Envelope Filter -> MXR Bass Octave Deluxe -> Schu-Tone Finn Chorus -> Fuzzdog Bass Fuzz Blender DIY kit (Tall Font Muff with mods) -> ShiftLine Olympic MkIIIS. Si

Safer than using AI:

The one I recommended above can be used with 2 wires, the third being for the speed regulation. Furthermost if you use the special cable to further reduce the speed it will be a two wires out. 😉 I've put these Noctua fans in almost all amps I've owned, and it means a lot of amps.

So many excellent takes on this Howlin' Wolf classic, but this is one of my favourites.

It caught me off-guard when I was there trying it and a guy messaged online offering the asking seconds before trying to negotiate. In hindsight I agree but at the time with my ADHD being the way it is I couldn’t think.

Apparently Stephen Carpenter won't leave the US because he's worried about mass shootings. Seriously. I saw them on the Around The Fur tour at Bristol Anson Room. Absolutely brilliant night. I think I spent half the night crowd surfing.

I'm sorry to hear of the demise of Marvin's Minimax, but without wishing to appear insensitive to his loss, I'm interested to make mine have a silent fan. I've just opened it up, and the current fan is 60x20mm, 24v, 0.11A and two cable (see pic below) (unlike the ones recommended earlier which were three cable). Would this be a good choice?: Jopto 2PCS Mini Brushless Silent 3D Printer Cooling Fan 60x60x20mm 6020 DC 24V Fan With 2 Pin Terminal Compatible With Laptop 3D Printer PC CPU Computer Cases For DIY With 30cm/11.81inch Cable : Amazon.co.uk: Business, Industry & Science