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Blimey! Wasn't expecting the...errr...creativeness What stuff do you make with all those parts?

Twix?

I would like to buy them all, and smash them into tiny pieces.

🤐

Desk? Music desk? What is this you speak of? My basses live in their cases in the corner of the dinning room and ALL my other gear lives under the stairs. 😁

Well, @Richard R did say “just another” but at least he didn’t call you a guitard

Neutrik is made in Lichtenstein, so pure metric, Switchcraft is made in the USA, so pure imperial as is your Fender cable: a slight "incompatibility" is possible. That said, you could have simply pushed the contact pins towards the center of the jack, it would have been sufficient to firmly hold the male connector of the cable in place. Furthermore the so called 1/4 inch standard is not a standard at all, take a caliper and start measuring, you'll be amazed.

I’d love to know how many of these they end up actually selling.

I might be wrong, but I'm fairly certain that the last EMG pickup with wiring kit I installed included a switchcraft socket. (Please feel free to correct me if you know otherwise) When I installed the EMG GZR pickup I bought recently for my formerly fretless precision bitsa which now has a precision to jazz conversion neck, the first thing I noticed on opening the packaging was that the socket didn't seem to be as solid as the switchcrafts we all know & love. I think it is might be a neutrik as it uses USA sized hardware like switchcraft & pure tone. I fitted it anyway, but ever since, whenever I played the bass using my very heavy cloth coated Fender coiled cable, the signal would somethines cut out momentarily due to movement of the cable's plug. I'm not sure whether this was due to the plug's tip losing contact with the socket as it flexed, or the signal part of the socket contacting the copper anti-slug tape lining the control cavity. This didn't occur often enough for it to be much of an issue, but was a minor irritation. Today I had time to sort it out and fitted a puretone socket instead. I was pleased to find that the pure tone works with the slide-on connectors of the EMG solderless gubbins so it was a very easy job. As a belt & braces measure I also fashioned a plastic insulator from a thin water bottle to prevent any part of the socket touching the copper tape. Now the connection is rock-solid and no amount of force applied to the jack plug results in the sound cutting out.

I think it's really important to make sure that everything in the signal chain works with the band you're playing with. If it doesn't and you sound like mush, then it should be removed. We're all constantly thinking about how we sound in the band context and it shows from the comments we get after gigs.

Yes, don't mention it... 😉

Is that a Vai style handle by the top horn?

Looks like a variety of mahogany to me, same wood pattern, some are very whitish and there over 800 different varieties.

No experience that helps you, but it sound similar to the ebay requirements that leads to the tax office tracking your 'income' from selling. David

Yeah, wondering myself, too... what's that, a prototype that got away maybe?

My main gigging amp for about the past 6 years. Cheap. Well built. More power than you're ever likely to need, and sounds sublime. What's not to like? Except of course unless you listen with your eyes and you're a real brand snob which sadly so many are.

They show up quite often ... in the E.U.

I love the look of these. I'd want all of the frets though please.

Who?

I tried out a whole bunch of options – "Hohner The {my name}", "Hohner The John/Dave/Steve" – but chickened out and went with the original.

I would love to be able to record a composition, but never feel that I have the creativity and talent to do so. However I am intending to create something one day - just so that I can say that I have done it.

I've got a lot of 12AX7s, including some rare original production Tesla valves. In this context, I'd be looking for low microphony first and then low noise. The JJ is ok on both counts. I'd think a short plate 12AX7 would be quieter in a musical instrument amp than a long plate, maybe? I don't think section matching is important, but it would be good if it breaks up early, as it's mainly adding distortion. I might trying throwing a few in to see, but the Ruby and the JJ sounded identical (they are the same tube).. I was just replacing it to have a new valve in there for reliability. In my valve hifi amps, I'm much more picky and have tried quite a few!. Getting harder to find good new production ones. I've bought from Watford valves, hotrox before and never had a bad one, so their QA / screening seems good.