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Thanks guys that's given me a lot to think about. No wonder I love this site.x

Its about 7.8 pounds 🙂

So, the various options we have discussed. Option 1 This is where a single, long, wedge-shaped shim - or a series of progressively thicker shims - lift the whole neck to the bridge position. In order for the bridge to drop and result in the lower action, the protruding wedge of neck needs to be flattened back down to the level of the body top Option 2 This is where the extended neck is cut into two, cutting through just after the fretboard ends. Then, with the addition of a couple more neck fixing screws (that can be hidden under the existing back plate), the shim or shims only need to be under the heel of the neck and the pickup chambers and bridge are unaffected Option 3 Similar to option 2, with the neck being cut to avoid having to disturb the bridge, but this time the cut is made at the pickup chambers. There may need to be some more wood removed in front of the pickups, but probably not Option 4 This is where there are no shims involved, but the bridge area is routed so the bridge can be sunk into the top, lowering the action. The disadvantage with this one is that the strings may then start fouling either the bass top near the bridge or, more likely, the pickups. Hope this helps clarify.

This would probably be fine if the wrap was over a bass that wasn't cut for a scratchplate ... that Bitsa's body had a blooming great swimming pool sized rout underneath the scratchplate which was great for weight relief considering im sure the body was MDF ... but one assumes the maker used the same jig for Soapbars , P's etc ... so i left the plate on for support it .. If you had a solid body / no scratch plate i'd expect it to be fine ..... It was more hard wearing than i thought it would be ...

I think I found it. I was over my image allocation on the forum here. I've cleared some so can now attach the new ones

That guide is brilliant. Thanks so much for uploading it. Tru Oil, Liberon and options from Crimson Guitars are all being considered and ideally, I'd like to stick with just the oiled finish and not add a gloss coat. Maybe just do a final finish with a wax. Just bought a gazillion sheets of numerous grades of wet and dry, plus similar for my Black & Decker mouse sander, which should save some time. Just getting the neck and bridge sorted so that I can put the whole thing together once the body is finished. Got a solderless Jass Bass harness (I'm useless at soldering) for the Aerodyne PJ pickups and have three neck options (cheapo Chinese maple/maple which is amazing for £60, standard '95 Mex Rosewood neck, or a Jazz profile maple/maple which is one the of older Northwest Guitars necks that still retains the Fender profile (newer ones differ), so will see which one works best with the finished body. Going to shield the cavities with copper tape so as soon as get the body and neck back from the tech guy I'll get started. Cheers

Ok chaps, I'm going to get my '73 sunburst/rosewood/tort Jazz bass refretted. What is the modern equivalent wire these days which compares to what was fitted originally? Also, would you go slightly bigger, and what would you use if you did? Thanks muchly, Rob

As there has been so much confusion, I've done four drawings of the options discussed so far...but just found out about Imgur stopping working in the UK. My whole Basschat portfolio of photos were on Imgur! No matter about that - anyone know/remember how to post an image (small jpeg) nowadays?

What’s the scratch plate for? If it’s for the look then I can’t see why you wouldn’t screw it on. If it’s for protection, then you risk doing more damage by adding one (so why bother). If you’re going to keep the bass forever then do whatever you want. If not, but a bass you will keep forever (with a scratchplate maybe!)

And I bought the undrunk cans (burp!) and left over half a chocolate cake (Mmmmmm....) at half the cost price so it went back in the kitty/charity pot.

Thanks Daryl, was a hard one as the stage sound was very boomy but not so much out front. It was so boomy at times i couldn't hear the upper ranges of tone at all. I just put up with it and assumed i was playing the right notes 😂 Those G&L basses do have a lot of switches and variable tone EQ which is something i'm not a big fan off. I'm more a volume and tone control or like my Jazz basses with VVT or VPT set up. Just simple EQ and let the amp do the main work. On my Jazz basses i set my volume(s) and use the tone control for the different songs. I do like a humbucker sound tho and have been considering something new like possibly a Stingray but they are daft money these days. The G&L with the single HB in the middle is a nice tone too. The Sandbergs are great basses to play but i think their pick ups and pre-amps could be better but that's on another thread somewhere. Think with you using a pick you get that nice little click or edge on your tone and i really like that. Dave

Scooter - Stuff The Turkey

How do you find the DCX?