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Definitely an option, not sure how the Armacab would work here, is it so thick that it would stay in place, or would it ooze? Its very cold here and very wet so can't really test anything. T'other half has made it very clear, no painting or cab work in the house under any circumstances Rob

By out of date I mean big rigs in general. Anyone who is regularly playing venues big enough to warrant having something of this size will almost certainly be using IEMs for monitoring and the FoH feed will at best be taken from the DI out on the head. So that's a huge 8x10 cab doing essentially nothing for the sound but taking up space on stage and in the band transport. Maybe the head would be worth using if it is possible to run it into a power soak with the FoH feed taken at the speaker outputs, but I'm sure there are smaller and lighter devices that will be able to achieve the same sound in a band mix. I just don't see who would realistically want to have one and actually use it nowadays.

It depends on how far the envelope is pushed from whats already known. The resonancy peaks become more pronounced the less stiff the core is. Its possible to fill with resin and other materials but the proportions could vary according to resin content and the dampening of any filler material. Rob Green mentioned once that tbe stealth 2 used an epoxy foam core. Not sure if the core was preshaped and wrapped or the foam was injected.

Let 'em come, im playing keys 😂

What about using the sacrificial bolts idea, but take them out immediately after you finish the painting of the armacab, while it’s still wet?

Bass Police are coming for you.

The Affinity is 32", but the legendary Squier Vintage Modified Short Scale is definitely 30".

About 10 years ago there was a run of short scale P/J Squiers. They are very good basses. I regret selling mine. They do suffer from neck dive but not as bad as the medium scale humbucker versions.

I'm getting to the stage when I'm going to coat the cab in Armacab. However I want to make sure I understand some options here. I'm going to add in two mounting blocks for the Warwick Gnome amp on the back of the cab and on the top of the cab, so the Gnome can be positioned on the back or on the top. It's just to add some flexibility This is the drill guide, a quick hack TBH. I would drill 4mm holes here and then use an M3 pronged T-nut on the inside of the cab to allow the countersunk screws to bolt into the T-Nut. Not a fan of simple screws here. Now I'm trying to work out the order of doing this work. Where I have done this before, which is for the Fane speaker, the front port and back panel, I would drill the right size hole, put the t-nut at the back into the hole, so an M3 T-Nut requires an M4 hole. I would then drill an M4 hole in a scrap piece of wood, put a long M3 bolt through the scrap wood with a heavy duty washer and then through the hole in the cab into the T-Nut. I would then tighten the M3 bolt up, it would tighten against the scrap wood and slowly pull the T-Nut into the inside of the cabinet, the scrap wood would protect the outside of the cabinet as I put quite a lot of force on it. If I do all of this before I paint with Armacab, then I will need to protect the holes I've drilled so Armacab doesn't go in them. I can easily put some sacrificial bolts through the holes to protect them, However never used Armcab before so not sure, if the Armacab would splinter if I then took the sacrificial bolts out, when the armacab is dried. OR should I paint the cabinet with Armcab for a few coats and then drill the holes afterwards. Would putting the scrapwood on damage the surface of the Armacab. Could I even drill through the Armacab, not sure how tough it is. I can test it but it might a few days to dry so am now into "Paralysis by Analysis" as I work through what my options are. Any thoughts welcomed. Rob

If the neck is ringing, some foam could dampen those frequencies. Most likely requires (lots of) testing.

I thought Jaguars were 32” scale length?

Agree, the Modulation effects are very limited.

Absolutley not' for ive found certain Boss & Mxr pedals were very dissapointing without naming specific items & ive recently bought discontinued pedals that work very well indeed on my board... ive sold 3Leaf items that they ask inflated prices for that for myself didnt perform 'that well' still this is a subjective thread that i enjoy reading.

That's very true. I used to drive up the A1 regularly and would always stop near the Nene Valley railway as it was a pit half way from London to York. Never had the opportunity to go on it. I do become a little boy when near a steam engine. No idea why as they had long gone when I was younger.

No, I wouldn’t lol….but if I did, it would probably be MXR…or maybe Darkglass. Si

Yeah the octaver is definitely the weak point with the pedal. Saying that, it isn't strictly an octaver, it's a pitch shift effect so maybe an octave is too far for it (anyone using a transpose function in a DAW will know this). I sold an OC-10 recently and it was a cracking little pedal so it is a shame this part is so weak. Again, as @Al Krow mentions, an analogue pedal vs a digital recreation is always going to be poor mans version. Saying that, I don't see myself using it for this anyway, and as a preamp / modeller / NAM pedal, I think it's a cracking bit of kit. My only gripe is that the mod effects don't have a wet / dry mix control, delay and reverbs do, but I would have preferred to be able to control how much chorus I add to my sound. Yes, I can tame it with the controls but a wet / dry mix level should really be there in my view.