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Thank God for digital desks eh?! i wouldn't have a hope of doing this with my old analogue desk! Just as an aside: This level of flexibility combined with the better pre-amps on our A&H CQ18T (vs my old Soundcraft MTK12) and the ability to give everyone a tailored feed that we're already benefitting from, seems to me to make a quality digital desk the single most important factor in getting a band to successfully adopt and accept IEMs in place of backline? With quality ear-buds running in a very close second - one of our singers tried got a set of KZ ZARs from Ali Express for £30 recently. She's over the moon with how good they are!

This was my problem there:

Not everything I have released over the past 45 years has made it onto Spotify, but here are the bands that have: SugarBox: Dick Venom & The Terrortones: In Isolation: Hurtsfall:

Wot? No Tommy Schneider in your list. 😱😉

…and narrow frets 👍

Highly recommended album from Tab Benoit with Steve Bailey playing his sixer fretless in tune and Paul English on B3...

Wood is wood, they will all vary, but Jazz width, shallow, and small headstock will be lighter all other things being equal. Material of truss rod will be a factor also

Neck weights can vary quite a bit. I used to be obsessed by weight and went through a phase of weighing everything in sight! Looking at my data, I've had clean neck weights (without any hardware) ranging from 725gm ( 25oz) to 850gm (30oz). The heaviest neck I've had was a Warmoth which clocked in at 1.1kg (38oz) - but that one had stainless steel reinforcing rods.

I just keep watching it, excellent!

Thanks. Just noticed that one side looks like it's covered in white filler, it's not. I've filled and sanded, filled and sanded. Whilst the Armacab should hide imperfections, I'd rather not have to hide anything.

Well due to injury, and therefore necessity, I have succumbed and bought a shorty. I have no idea how much movement I will get back in my shoulder but for now I can reach the 3rd fret pf a 34” bass. Back of a cornflake packer calculation says 30” scale length is ideal so off I went a-hunting. I did no want to spend an awful lot, I am already £250 down on a U Bass so It was an Affinity, HB, or Hartwood. I did not get on with the Affinity ‘Tang, the HB has been showing 1-2 weeks for about a month and now showed a bit longer so a Hartwood Delta finally showed up. So far I am delighted. Feet work is some of the best that I have ever seen and there are lots of little touches that please. Machine Heads -Smooth and precise Control Knobs- Not the push on, splined type but held on with grub screws. Body-Flawless, at least on first look. Action- Higher than I like but playable out of the box. Frets- I do my own fretwork and these are wonderful, the best fret ends on a bass or guitar I have had in 60 years. Screws-Pick-guard and control cavity screws sit well down. They are domed but sit well into the countersink. Nut-Could go lower but I will not be touching it for now. Criticisms? The neck has what look like ran drops in the finish. However you cannot feel it under your hand, The pick-up selector switch is not straight up and dos but angled. Oddly when playing it seems more natural then if it were more like a Les Paul. The switch may be the first thing I change thought as cheap ones fail quickly IMHO. Bridge- BBOT. However That does not matter to me, It is a well proven design and it works. Strings - Shiny and bright but may have more finger noise than I like.

Yeah, it’s just for IEM, as i agree with you, it just add’s a bit of air to the sound, especially nice in stereo.

The wonderful Reese Wynans - Ron Levy - with some great 6 string bass from Jimmie Vaughn

Our House - Madness

Nobody mentioned it, but the Leslie cabinet is mandatory for a true Hammond B3 sound. 😉

Hokay, so apologies up front for anyone I'm boring to tears with my neverending serch for lighter and lighter basses, but I'm looking at the Frankenstein approach to putting something together, given how good the Squier Sonic P is sounding after I'd finished with it (replaced bridge, tuners, pickup and EQ). Soooo, I've found a Paulownia-bodied P-bass for buttons (it's apparently 7lbs on the nose including 'normal' tuners, etc, so I'm thinking I can get that down a chunk with Ultra-Lites and an Aluminium bridge), and I'm thinking a replacement neck to elevate it a little - I thought this about the Sonic, but it turned out to be good enough not to bother...I doubt this one will, tho. To the point (hurrah!): anyone have any guides as to what's a heavy neck and what's a light one? Or are they mostly close in weight? I'm looking at a Northwest Guitars jazz neck (amongst others), should I be paying attention to the weight, or am I overthinking the whole thing? Cheers, Muzz

Moi brain 'urts!

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So... If I played 16th notes with a fat bass sound would the speed and size of a driver matter? I'm sure it does. That was the old argument for 10s being (perceived) as a tighter sound as they move quicker?

obne sunlight stereo and beetronics phaser are new and brought the pickle back