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I have copies of some of the Eminence designs. David Basslite_S2012_cab.pdf

I think it’s worth bearing in mind that if you bought this, and then later decided to move it on, all the questions you’re asking now will get asked by potential buyers. I’d imagine plenty of them would have reservations about the same things we’ve discussed here, so it might not be the easiest bass to sell. If it’s a great player, then you might be ok, but if it’s not (and a warped neck won’t help) then I fear you’d be stuck with a bit of a dog.

Not in my experience playing my 5-string through it. I have a v5 500 combo btw and they have since brought out the 800s. That is plenty enough for the pub gigs I play and more than enough for the occasions where we have full PA and it's just used for on stage monitoring. Places to try a range of amps are very few and far between. You just have to read reviews, listen to demos, ask for advice and ultimately take a bit of a punt. I'm very happy with my Rumble. There are a few BC members using them and they very rarely appear in the classifieds, I guess that says something. But then ask 10 people and you'll get 20 different recommendations 😂

Bass board (half in rack .. pics to follow) Guitar board

Would love to hear those EAE pedals again Joe & that Fairfield accountant !

Thanks and they can be bowed !

Sounds good to me, how are you liking them? I feel like there's some more midrange presence compared to the previous video with the black nylons, the attack is nice and the pitch is clearer.

Glass (or carbon) fibres make the material tough. The fibres tie the polymer together (and the other way around). Practically many polymers (like polyamide, PA) containing lots of fibres are very tough. Most of them are also injection moldable, depending on fibre length (from ball to fibres to long fibres) and machinery. Here's a product that is made of PA that includes tens of percents of fibres. These were built from metal earlier, and are in a hard place: M. Cipollini et al. have pushed far over 2 bhp through similar pedals, and cleats. https://www.lookcycle.com/us-en/products/pedals/road/comfort/keo-classic-3 P. S. Because of fibres (especially glass) these polymers (plastics) are not that easy to recycle.

You've all seen it before but I thought it looked particularly good with a bit of light on and the Fender / Ampeg back drop..

I'm sure we have enough knowledge that should named guests be too busy elsewhere we could rustle up a few interesting bits? After all, how many people on the forum have loads of niche knowledge? For example, a few years ago @TrevorR did a talk on Wal basses. Aside from Paul Herman is there anyone who knows more about them than him? @cetera could do something on Spectors. After all, he owns most of them in circulation anyway. @stevie could show off the design of his Lfsys cabs. @prowla and Rickenbackers. Again, does anyone know more about them? Just examples really off the top of my head really. If you were wanting stand up comedy, I could do something on how I felt cheated in 2002 that I didn't get the bass slot in The Who.

Up to a point, maybe, but if you pair high quality, revealing cabs with a cheap amp, the result is unlikely to be good. The cabs will likely highlight the limitations of the amp - garbage in, garbage out and all that. Don't choose/buy on the basis of reviews or recommendations. Try stuff and see what works for you. If buying used, look at plenty. Take your time, rather than trying to get it sorted in a single day. That way, your new rig won't end up in the classifieds after a few weeks. Google should help find you some shops to visit.

There are fake L series plates available on "every corner". Though I couldn't tell if this one is authentic or not. There could be some variation of course. Decal is definitely not original, not even partly, because spaghetti type logo. Othwerwise I'm tempted to say the neck is original based on the shine of a well used brazilian rosewood fretboard. I agree it looks light in colour though, and the grain pores seem less typical at first sight. 🤷

Are you running it into too low an impedance?

Tricky to verify a Fender from photos, as they can be completely dismantled and re-assembled by unscrewing 40 or so screws and bolts. Parts can easily be weathered/antiqued to look original - firms such as Limelight offer new "vintage" Fenders, as does the Fender custom shop. I'd tread warily if you can't get to see it in the flesh (should that be wood?). If you are not experienced, the only way to be certain is to have an expert look it over. Even then, there are no guarantees.

Material is less important than how well a nut is cut and fitted. My '72 J bass is still on its original and none the worse. Perhaps if I used rounds and constantly cranked the tension up and down, it would wear, but I don't and it doesn't.

My Elf used to get warm but never hot. The gnome has gotten warm before but not hot. That time is was actually hot. It did get warm last time i used it but not hot. I did also put some things under it to raise it up off the cab it was sitting on. Nothing on the top of it, ever. Think i should figure out something to raise it up off the cab it was sitting on. The fan does kick in but i admit i haven't religously monitored it. I will next time i use it. Is there anything other than restricted circulation that could cause it to get real hot? Just for me to consider next time i use it. Thank you for stopping by and leaving guidance. Very much appreciated.