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@Twigman Currently in the process of proving ownership, so 🤞

And fit the strings properly at the tuners. 😂 Nice looking bass. Mine didn't have the adjustment pot on the pre-amp block plus it was all black silicone compound. Dave

I thought ECM stood for Electronic Counter-Measures........I'll get me coat.

No, totally seperate.

Ah, great, thx ! Here are 2 pictures. It still works, I borrowed the bass a few years back also and noticed the output level was very low with a level of hiss which is nowadays not necessary. But I played live in a big band, so was manage-able. I'm borrowing it again now for recording, but the hiss is getting in the way. As you can't EQ the thing because of it, almost no high frequencies in the sound. Possibly the age of the pots also. There's a little pot on the block which you can turn, the level increases, but the hiss also, and the sound changes, not for the good. I already ordered new active MEC pickups and BEC-2 electronics. After 40 years, badly needed. I'm doing something back for borrowing !

So has the rightful owner of this bass got it back yet?

Cool! Is the magazine related to the Dutch magazine "De Bassist" and its sibling "Gitarist" in any way?

My personal view - if using the Stomp with in-ears, it is definitely worth spending some time playing with the global EQ. I cut extreme low frequencies, and also quite a lot of highs (roughly 40Hz low cut and something like 6kHz high cut) which helps to reduce the 'harshness'. Spending some time to get a good seal with your IEMs is important. Looking like a pillock while pulling on your ear to insert your IEMs properly is a price worth paying, IMO. Then again, if you cared what you looked like, you'd probably be up front on vocals or guitar My experience with the Stomp is that the mic pre and Noble (Regal) models were much better for me than any of the amps/cabs/IRs, plus exploiting a parallel path so you always get 50% of the direct sound really helps with clarity. Then again, I'm a rank amateur and have spent most of my bass-playing life plugging into a DI straight into the house - so your mileage might vary. Phil

WHSmiths? Not unless you happen to be an airport these days!

Congratulations! I still like print. It feels wrong to read an ipad on the bog! And an ipad is just a bit too rigid for the times I run out of loo roll...😬

And here's some pictures. The two cabs stack very nicely on top of each other. However they are only loosely connected through the rubber feet on the bottom and the holes in the corners. You're not going to knock them over without a push, but a drunken punter would easily push them down. The bottom one looks nicer than the top one as it's all black (IMO). I may retrofit the black corners onto the top one. The top one happens to have a Mod Dwarf on it and without that, would be the perfect place to place a pint. Still got to do a grill for the bottom one. Side angle and the rear. The handles are great., Easy to carry the whole cab with just one of them. And from the rear I'm quite pleased with how they have turned out. Even better when I can change the top Speakon panel and remove the gaskets. Work has got in the way all day today. Rob

Hi all… fired up my GK MB head last night. Lack of usual full range bassy goodness, noisy artifacts, lack of definition etc. basically, “some sound missing”. After plugging direct into head with known good jack lead, problem still there. Master volume knob was very crackly upon turning… so I muted the amp and gave it many a clockwise and anti turn until (I guess) the dirt in the pot shifted out of the audio path - normal sound restored. So, please, your wisdom: 1) does above sound feasible 2) Strikes me the issue will come back, no? 3) I guess squirting with proper contact cleaner likely causes more issues than solves? Thanks!

Absolutely - if you buy online you get a lot of protections that you don't have in a shop, regardless of price.

Great stuff and thank you!

I'd be amazed if that or similar hadn't been tried by someone at some point! Buy a nice brownish tartan bag and then a label with needle and thread appears in the post a week later...

Surprisingly not - technically speaking the contract never happened as no contract makes an illegal item or act legal. Or more accurately - the contract is not enforceable. Even though the parties wanted to have a contract where one sold an item and the other bought it (like selling / buying anything else) it is the fact that it is a counterfeit item that means the contract cannot be lawful or enforced. Instead of being a contract it's an attempt to enter into an illegal contract. Semantics - yes, but an important one. So looking at this from either side in the event of a First Sale - from the maker to the first buyer, the first buyer knowing it is not a real "X" because there's a disclaimer or something: Person A makes a counterfeit (not illegal), then agrees to sell it (illegal) and posts it to Person B a bit keenly - before the money has been received. B never gets round to paying for it. If A tries to sue B, then B has a defence of "the item is illegal, so I don't owe anything" - unlikely to get anywhere with the authorities but the courts also won't order B to actually pay A because that would be enforcing an illegal contract. A never gets paid and B loses any benefit as well when it gets confiscated. Or same basic facts but money changes hands first and then A doesn't post it: B complains and A says "I don't sell counterfeits he sent me the money as a gift" or similar. Again - no rights of civil action in either direction as they both knew what they were doing. Or money and item swap and then the item doesn't work properly. A cannot offer a usual sellers warranty on an illegal item, and B has no warranty rights so if A refuses to fix / replace at his expense then B has no remedy. Cannot ask a court to force a seller of a counterfeit to fix it as that would be enforcing rights that would exist under a lawful contract and this isn't one. Whoever is holding the item after the first sale (it not being illegal before that) is where it might be confiscated from. Then the person holding has to try and undo the past to get their money back. This is why the rationale of "next seller might not be honest" is so important: If B buys it knowing it is a counterfeit then they basically give up any rights to refunds / actions against A because they knew the item was counterfeit. If it's got a makers logo and the seller has been completely open about it not being a real "X" then neither side can say they didn't know. But if person C gets it from B and has no idea, then even if the item is confiscated and destroyed C can seek a refund from B because they have been a victim of fraud, but B can't go back further as they knew what they were doing when they got it from A. There's a thing called "Equity" in law and that means you need to have "clean hands" when asking the court for assistance - so if B willingly took part in an illegal act they lose the right to get any assistance from the courts about that illegal act. And it can get a lot more complicated than that. That's why Trading Standards are never bothered with small outfits and spend all their time scouring big markets for counterfeit Burberry and Armani stuff - that stuff is cranked out by massive factories. Here's a nice twist - some things like Burberry / high fashion stuff that is counterfeit has been made in the factories that make the real stuff and just left by the back door! Still counterfeit as well as stolen even though they are identical and made to the exact spec etc. It's a fascinating and often head-melting topic!

Bring it down, I'll use the Mod Dwarf to act as a DSP, send one signal to one Gnome, and one to the other Gnome. I did think if I had the House Jam 6", use the Mod Dwarf as a gilter so the bass signal goes to the 8" and a portion of the rest goes to the 6" speaker. The Mod Dwarf is acting as an active crossover here. No idea if it will work, but this is just the event to try these ideas out Rob