Muppet

It's not proper or correct but I have used foam cut from pipe lagging that you can buy in Homebase etc. Dirt cheap and holds up well.

I love threads like this. What 'look' are you aiming for, fully reliced (including metal parts) or leaving as it is?

T-Cut will work to an extent but is abrasive by it's nature. It will remove scratches by cutting back the lacquer and paint, but too much and you'll wear away the finish. To be honest, I imagine most other scratch removers will do that too! Remember to use a quality polish afterwards to protect the cut paint.

I'm not sure a separate dock will work as it will rely on connecting through the lighting port, but in your proposed setup you are already using the iPads lightning port to connect to the PowerBridge?

Yeah don't do that though please!

Mines a 2012 Skyline DJ4. 12th to bridge pup is 370 mm I agree but distance between pickups is 90mm

That's a good deal that there. The little stud was on all instruments of that year. Many people try to sell them on eBay as 60th anniversary editions when they're not (those are completely different animals). Fender did the same in 1996 too, with a different little sticker on the headstock.

I had this problem. I used right angled jacks instead. Then I switched to Pedaltrain, problem solved

Put a shim at the open (headstock) end and if the neck screws are in the way simply cut your shim to fit around them. An old credit card is the max thickness you should start with. Thinner is better. Seriously, don't worry, it's easy to do

Saddles as low as they can be and strings are too high then shim at the closed end, saddles as high as they can be and strings too low then shim at the open end and its trial and error as to thickness of shim. Longer bridge saddle grub screws isn't good as you run the risk of bending the longer intonation screw as you raise the saddle higher than it was designed to be.

The problem sounds like the neck angle. Assuming you've put everything back together properly, I'd check that the neck is sitting correctly in the pocket. If that's ok I would put a shim in the neck pocket close to the open end. That will angle the whole neck up slightly, raise the strings and allow you to lower the saddles. No need to shim the bridge normally.

Ah, never thought about the 15 C1, that might make more sense actually given the volumes I play at, thanks for that I'll have a look. Dangerous smelling???

Thanks for that. I think I was a little harsh with criticising the Fender drive channel - it's just that it's even when on full it's still a subtle drive and I was hoping for a bit more - that's what I use the nova system for. I guess I could just drive the thing harder in the first place but I do play at relatively low volumes so don't often get the opportunity as I'm not playing loud rock.

I have a Blues Deluxe Reissue at the moment and I'm ok with it - it's not blowing my socks off but coupled with my TC Nova System it's reasonable. I'm playing the usual suspects through it, tele, strat and LP. I have always loved the AC30 sound however and was wondering about the VR model as a replacement as I could ditch the pedal and rely on the reverb and overdrive on the amp - the Fender's drive channel is poor in my opinion. I can't justify the expense of a custom/C2 so this would probably be a zero cost change. Anyone got a view as to whether I'm better off persevering with the Fender? cheers Steve

Looks pretty much exactly like a MIJ '75 Reissue I used to have, without the battery compartment obviously (based on my memory of it!) Seems a shame with the Stingray though if you love the looks. No way of modifying your playing style or the bass height to get to something that's comfortable?

Me neither but it makes sense for your bass. Here's the Fender colour chart - number 51! http://www2.fender.com/support/color-chart/

That bar code tells a story. 0056190 - Body, Am P-Bass, solid color 7 - standard case 51 - sky blue Still no idea about the pickups. Look genuine. Maybe there was a replacement at some point or maybe a pot change.

The original Highway 1s weren't string through either, were they? The newer ones had a BadAss bridge and the old 70s logo...

Was he clear it was an audition, rather than a 'we're having a practice before a gig, do you want to pop along?' sort of thing? Had you agreed what songs he was to learn etc..? Sounds like a communications issue to me.

You got it then, nice one! I picked up a mid 90s one once in similar condition and it became my favourite bass so I hope yours works out. Looks good from the pics but I'm not sure what the original colour is either. It does look like its had new set of pick ups in it, hence the messy soldering, but you can obviously swap them out or keep them depending on how they sound. I hope it was a bargain. Clean it, set it up and stick it a Hiscox case and you've got a great bass. Steve

Agree, a very wise investment to pair with a cmd121p. i wouldn't be without one.

[quote name='njr911' timestamp='1430419679' post='2761321'] Corona California on the neck plate and a Z serial number [/quote] Then it's a standard American Precision like Lozz said rather than a California Series like Gareth had. You'll know if it has got S1 switching if you can push the middle of the volume knob in and it latches. I agree with Lozz, not much use on a Precision but you can get £50 selling the switch on eBay!

Wasn't the California series a P/J or am I mixing it up with something else? Have you got any pics or more details?

Oddly I had a similar problem a few years back and I was using a 4Pro. I had it serviced and new preamp valves put in and no more problem. I'm not saying that's definitely your problem but might be worth trying another amp just to check if your other checks yield no results? Cheers Steve