3below

An easy repair and if you are not going DY should not be too expensive.

There is some seriously good value kit appearing on a regular basis. In addition there is a lot of really good quality 'budget' kit these days. This puts the squeeze on 'higher quality' kit. There is also a vast amount of kit around (not just BC). Officially the recession may be over however money is short, public sector pay freeze (cut in reality) has not helped. Concur with OP, [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]A) people have no cash and [/font][/color][font="helvetica, arial, sans-serif"][color="#282828"]C) there is too much out there. I will add E) quality / playability no longer costs. For me E) is the game changer: Most basses are becoming 'white goods'. CNC manufactured with immense quality control at basement prices. I have in my possession a Peavey milestone bass with EMGs - £110 s/h. I am hard pressed to see the quality / playability difference with my 'professional' USA and German basses. Bit like cars these days, I used to buy German, Swedish then Japanese. Now I buy 5 or 7 year 100K + miles warranty with most of the quality and all of the safety.[/color][/font]

Blues standard, "Good Morning, School Girl" potentially dubious lyrics in some versions, other versions avoid the 'issue' ; Good mornin' little schoolgirl Can I go home with you Tell your mama and your daddy That I'm a little school boy too ................

[quote name='allighatt0r' timestamp='1445797782' post='2894304'] Could be more than a new neck judging by eBay prices! [/quote] This could well be the case DIY is possible but this requires tools, at the very least a flat file / stone and detail sanding stick.

How much of a curve and is it making the bass 'unplayable'? If it is a small curve (straight edge and judgement needed) then fret levelling and recrown may be sufficient.

Captain Beefheart got there first time around (in name not weight)

Some older Peavey basses feature the same bi-cut construction as well.

[quote name='JTUK' timestamp='1445636284' post='2893107'] And then get another of the same cab to run with it. I know from when I started power ratings on chassis' were a very iffy process so I never take as gospel power ratings, tbh. I agree that that is a historical 'fear' but still think it applies... And you'll like the sound bonus of a pair, I'm sure. [/quote] Likewise, when I started (in the dim and distant pass) the rule of thumb was speaker power should be 2x amplifier power. When Celestion or Fane 12" speakers were rated at 25 or 30W each the result was using two 4x12 cabinets for the Marshall or Hiwatt 100W head.

ex 112 claims 300W (no idea if this is thermal or excursion power). TH 500 claims 500W at 4 Ohms. Halfway on amp is anyone's guess. Does 5 on markers mean 250W power, 1/2 max loudness or what. How accurate are the markers? The 'mild burning smell' was probably the insulation melting / degrading on the speaker coil, bad news To test, get a multimeter and measure dc resistance of speaker. 2.7 to 3.3 Ohms is in the ball park. Zero or infinite (open circuit) Ohms is bad news. I suspect damaged voice coil due to excessive power that the speaker could not dissipate.

Used German Warwick corvette (as on this parish from time to time). Circa £450 to as low as £375. Neck profile to taste, thick or thin. Get a fretless ebony neck version and have lines put in or get a fretted one defretted and lines put in. £175 ish by Shuker guitars. Warwick fretless with dots at 3,5,7 etc is easy to intonate, would be relatively cheap to have extra dots put in side of fingerboard if you find you need them.

Much good advice above about what sound you want and the 'sweet spot' moving with different fret positions plus the string spacing issue. Be bold, engineer a sliding pickup like the Gibson Grabber

Bought an Aria bass from Jeff, excellent bass, super communication. Many thanks.

Source the same metal, find an engineering firm to cut to size and fettle as needed then get the finish you want applied. Keep your original grilles should you ever wish to change back. You could explain the situation to TKS and see if they would supply additional grilles at a sane price.

Be bold on a new day when you are feeling on form. Since you have done it before you will remember to use masking tape (or a locking barrel widget) to set the drill depth and prevent your worst fear. Many is the time I forget simple obvious steps that I know I should do. I also have days like yours when I am useless / ineffective because I become 'stuck' about things I have done many times before that are well within my competence. I can spend more time 'worrying' about the task than actually doing it. Totally irrational and luckily of little consequence in my current life .

Excellent, I have a bass that needs a similar bridge.

Ouch!

The satin looks good, sadly on mine it marked very easily. Wax polish fixed that and I really like the wax finish.

[quote name='SingleMalt' timestamp='1444759158' post='2885725'] ..... I do love how the wear realistic simulates the classic 'all around' finger placement around the bridge pick up. [/quote] I am still trying to work out what is missing in my bass technique since I do not get wear like that on mine

Obscure, is it linked to Volksbacker ?