
3below
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Everything posted by 3below
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Post some picture please
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Nice but the price . Having said that if its a BCer then GLWTS.
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Furniture touch up pens might be one way to go - they are available in a range of colours. I have no idea at all if they should be used on guitar finishes though. Failing that woodstain. This would require a fair bit of experimentation to get the right shade.
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[quote name='Machines' timestamp='1440565276' post='2851920'] Would that have enough data? It could probably be achieved in Excel. Multiple tables aren't really needed. [/quote] Depends on how much data will be kept, 3NF will make handling multiple instances easier e.g. variants on models such as Fender Precision / Jazz and further extension will be simpler. Python and SQL will make further use e.g. web much easier and give the OP the skills development wanted. SeanNeedham gives good advice - thinking about possible end points and planning structures on paper saves much grief later on
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Would I be right in approaching a next joint repair like this?
3below replied to SeanNeedham's topic in Repairs and Technical
There are also metal inserts that can be inserted into the holes. You can then use machine screws (bolts) to fix the neck. [url="http://www.manchesterguitartech.co.uk/2011/04/11/how-to-fit-the-threaded-insert-neck-kit/"]http://www.manchesterguitartech.co.uk/2011/04/11/how-to-fit-the-threaded-insert-neck-kit/[/url] -
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[quote name='gary mac' timestamp='1438859801' post='2838088'] A price dropping bump. £695 for an excellent gigging instrument. [/quote] They are an excellent gigging bass. MFD is very powerful, body is a 'slimmer' P bass. Neck pocket is super tight. tuning stability is just amazing. Early models with the 'smooth headstock' are not common and will not be made again. What is not to like. No connection at all with Gary Mac other than I have owned an 88 SB1 (same as his other than the metal scratchplate) for 25 years.
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It is a mystery, as was BLs inability to build a gearbox that lasted. There must be a 'graveyard' like elephants or aircraft in USA. These columns are just awaiting rebirth as SMLA with NHD in marketing speak - SMall Line Array, Narrow Horizontal Dispersion. I would quite like to find a set and put some 'reasonable' (not premium) speakers in and see how they perform. Cabinets were usually quality Birch ply.
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Can you take a picture of your machines and post? I have sorted out similar problems on various bass guitars and am about to embark on the same with my DB - the E tuner is smooth most of the way but has the stiff / creaky spot.
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[quote name='Twincam' timestamp='1439338628' post='2842077'] Had a look couldn't find mine, there Philips ( mullards) gt Britain however mine matched up to non online lettering print wise. [/quote] What valves are they? You mentioned death cap so I surmise this is an early(ish) Fender amp.
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[quote name='Twincam' timestamp='1439249317' post='2841351'] On another note are old valves worth anything? Even a few quid or should they be retained for future test purpose or binned? [/quote] Oh yes if they are functional. Mullard EL34s seem to fetch good money, ditto Mullard pre amp valves. USA 6L6 GE also seem to fetch money. A quick look at the well known internet auction site is informative.
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[quote name='CamdenRob' timestamp='1438672597' post='2836201'] I had a corvette fiver once that was seriously tight... sounded great (as have all Warwicks I've tried) but was way too tight for my agricultural technique [/quote] Ditto it had to go in the end, replaced with 4 stringer.
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Sometimes too low an action can lead to a dull lifeless bass. Another factor to explore is the pickup height from strings. I like the tone of my passive Warwick MEC 'Dynamic Correction' (whatever that means beyond market speak) pickups but they certainly underwhelm in terms of output.
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[quote name='rmorris' timestamp='1439244313' post='2841319'] Capacitor ratings can be confusing but if possible I'd say go for 105 deg C rated caps cf the cheaper 85 deg C versions. Gives longer useful life. [/quote] +1 particularly if these are being used with higher powered valve amp with associated heat issues.
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You need at least 65V. Higher voltage ratings are OK. Morgano has covered all the bases 68uF or two 33Uf in parallel seems the way to go.
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Never mind in a shop with an unfamiliar bass and an audience, I have lost the plot in regular band with kit owned and played for many years. It was if I was starting to learn the bass for first time again
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[quote name='Mornats' timestamp='1439120620' post='2840131'] I don't consider low input volumes to be too much of an issue. In fact, I regularly record at -6 to -8db and put a gain boost on the track in my DAW. I used to record hot (i.e. just in the yellow bit of clipping) and the sound quality was pretty poor, had little headroom and if I clipped into the red it would distort. This blog post explains it: [url="http://therecordingrevolution.com/2014/02/12/stop-recording-so-hot-into-your-daw/"]http://therecordingr...-into-your-daw/[/url] and this older one too [url="http://therecordingrevolution.com/2010/10/25/are-you-recording-too-hot/"]http://therecordingr...ording-too-hot/[/url] (also he's got loads of good advice on his site - well worth a read). Recording at 24 bit gives you 144db of dynamic range he says and I read elsewhere that good, low noise preamps makes the signal to noise ration a non-issue. The preamps in my Focusrite Forte are very good for this. [/quote] Same lesson learned here plus direct in (MXR, have yet to try Sansamp VT) with a touch of post recording compression as mentioned by Discreet and I get results that I am more than happy with for minimal effort .
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Doubts about 1976 Fender Precision Fretless Originality
3below replied to rainforest's topic in Bass Guitars
[quote name='Dan Dare' timestamp='1438779789' post='2837176'] I think you're right to be doubtful. I'd be very wary about a straight trade - Chris Anthony and Police Squad are right I think. It's just too easy to "create" a vintage Fender because they screw together so easily. [/quote] On the money I feel. Pictures (apols for quality) of my 1988 G&L bass neck. Note how the finish has aged where it is not exposed to light. [attachment=197922:bass1.jpg] [attachment=197924:bass2.jpg] [attachment=197926:bass3.jpg] My 1977 P bass (bought from new) was also full of what can be best described as 'white crap' inside the cavities and neck pocket. This bass has long gone from my posession and I have no pictures for reference. -
[quote name='PaulKing' timestamp='1438631030' post='2835972'] I just read that back. Actually a remarkably accurate summary of getting on for a decade of online discussion in one post. [/quote] Totally agree. It is what you make it I remember rockabillybass, sadly now gone. The waybackmachine has snapshots of it if you want to look.
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This must be an 'outbreak'. I have also started using my DB on the same mission (adventure) in the last month or so. Have tried Silver Slaps (which I like) but just put my old Spiro Mittels on - probably not ideal for slap. I have found Pete Turland on you tube a good starting point with explanations. Chris, if ever Hot Club of Cowtown play Aber again it is a must to see Jake Erwin. The biggest issue for me at the moment is piezo vs schaller magnetic. Piezo with Silver slaps (or anything non magnetic) sound good but feedback is an issue. Magnetic pickup sounds good but the spend to find suitable low tension strings is daunting.
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Time to end the farce of this streamer? Feel so angry......
3below replied to zawinul's topic in Bass Guitars
Good advice above, take it to a good luthier. My G&L bought s/h 28+ years ago was vastly improved by a visit to a luthier. Uneven notes on G string magically disappeared, the bass revealed its true potential. -
Flat response bass cabinets - Do they exist?
3below replied to Wolverinebass's topic in Amps and Cabs
I have a custom built Shermann cabinet 15" 6.5" mid and horn with flat response (I missed my Barefaced Big One that I traded for a Dubster so had this built). Until I got used to it I found it was very forward and unforgiving of poor technique and punished clacky piezos. They are a great company to deal with and will build what you want (at a price). The difference (to my ears) between Barefaced Dubster and full range cabinets is not that vast. I appreciate I am 'getting older' but my hf range is still good to 14-16 KHz. Do you need a flat response cab or a cab that makes your basses sound good? they may not be the same item. -
I looked at the same issue when my laptop with firewire died and I wanted the flexibility of a laptop rather than PC. From what I found out (Google / Internet) the firewire to USB converters are not up to the job. In the end I bit the bullet and bought a new USB based recording box. Am interested if you find anything.
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Eminently possible. Just depends on your guitar building / woodworking / finishing skills. As a minimum you will probably need some new kerfing. Enjoy
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I enjoy my Warwick corvettes (3), have not really noticed neck dive using wide (grippy) leather strap. Then again I enjoy playing a range of basses and appreciate the differences. If you want neck dive I can suggest Gibson SG / EB bass but even this can be conquered. In terms of bang ber buck Corvettes are a steal at the moment.