3below

You may find that the curvature remains unchanged even with strings on. This (obviously) depends on the strength of the neck and strings you use. Is it playable with a satisfactory action as it is? You may get lucky.

[quote name='Bill Fitzmaurice' timestamp='1450540863' post='2933784'] It shows that for the export model, but it probably wouldn't be the export model if it's coming from the US. Considering the age I'd replace the filter cap, and upgrade it to at least 4700uF/100v. It's been a very long time since I've done power supplies, but I do recall that the transformer secondary voltage isn't the same as the voltage once rectified and filtered, so it will take some research to find out the required secondary voltage. [/quote] Good points about power supply and capacitors, as Bill notes the 75V is after rectification and filtering (I am so full of cold at the moment I am not capable of much coherent thought). Hammnond provide this useful design sheet [url="http://www.hammondmfg.com/pdf/5c007.pdf"]http://www.hammondmf...m/pdf/5c007.pdf[/url] The pragmatic way would be power up with 110V (yellow power tool transformer?) and measure the ac voltage output on the transformer with no load. If you are lucky the transformer will have manufacturer markings which will allow the output voltages and power capacity to be identified. As you noted you are not going the DIY (destroy it yourself) route. Just let a good technician sort it and enjoy real transistor Watts (rather than D type Watts). How did we ever gig with 100W transistor heads?

Schematic available here [url="http://www.ampix.org/albums/userpics/10075/Acoustic_140.pdf"]http://www.ampix.org/albums/userpics/10075/Acoustic_140.pdf[/url] It appears that you need 75V output, There is also a resistor R401 wich is 47M for 120V, the value is stated for for 240V but I can not read it clearly , my guess is 100M (2 x value for 120V).

[quote name='Bassassin' timestamp='1450367518' post='2932106'] That bottom horn definitely is a bit wonky! [/quote] That is what I was trying to allude to in a convoluted way in my previous post. The 'wonkiness' grows on me in a Mosrite kind of way (I have had some red wine).

[quote name='Kev' timestamp='1450376885' post='2932238'] Iv posted this over on the W forum, see how it goes down. [/quote] I await with interest Compare and contrast - my double bass which my father kindly snapped the neck at the heel for me . neck fixed, aligned, ebony binding piece made for lost one, touch up finish, adjust soundpost, correct bridge and setup. Total bill £90! from a known violin maker / repairer. I suspect that is rather more detail work than remove fingerboard, extract truss rod, re-install, glue fingerboard.

Fingers crossed, I will be very surprised if Martin us unable to fix it.

[quote name='Naetharu' timestamp='1450349553' post='2931842'] I'm sure they are lovely, but their after-market service stinks if the above email is taken as an example. Getting a bass at that price (£8000) should warrant you some serious after-care - it's clearly a lifetime instrument that someone is purchasing after all. To refuse to repair a fault without also undertaking expensive and unnecessary additional work that the owner does not want or need doing is just disgusting to be honest. I appreciate that they don't do custom work but it is pretty clear that that is not what is being asked for here.... [/quote] +1 and I am in total agreement, service like this is why I would not buy an expensive new Warwick (or even one of the lesser ones). Two days time at the factory and a truss rod will cost warwick £700 tops ? Losing even one high end instrument sale as consequence of this current level of customer service, the company will lose financially. Reputational loss and resulting loss of sales is anyone's guess. Subsequent damage to value of used Warwicks should also be factored in which will affect potential new purchases. Text book example of how not supporting your product when it fails is a 'bad' business decision.

Where can I find some of Non King's music to listen to?

Fender got the proportions 'right' whereas this one has suffered from the influence of mind altering substances when it was replicated

[quote name='Naetharu' timestamp='1450284517' post='2931367'] .... I'd certainly think twice before getting a Wawick after seeing this... [/quote] All the more for me . Stick to Corvettes (German, as low as £375, Rockbass versions pretty good as well for cheap as chips money) and enjoy what must be the bargain of current times.

[quote name='Machines' timestamp='1450280424' post='2931318'] .....If demand for Warwicks was so high, 2nd hand prices would be high too ? They're laughably [s]terrible.[/s] excellent [/quote] Corrected that as a used Warwick buyer - excellent value they are at the moment. Who would buy a full retail price one is another question altogether

[quote name='Yawn_Blah' timestamp='1450083446' post='2929309'] yes i forgot to mention that i took mine off too and went back to those old 45-100s! i did achieve the desired relief and action with the 50-105s on but i was not sure what would happen to my neck in the future during time...! [/quote] [quote name='CamdenRob' timestamp='1450085140' post='2929324'] I put a set of those fender flats with the green silks on a bass once ages ago and you could have shot arrows with the bass afterwards Action went to about an inch off the fretboard. [/quote] I also found the Chromes 50-105s quite different to the 45-100s, much more different than the 10% to 5% diameter difference suggests. The 45-100s are easier to me but I am very partial to the spaghetti string aka TI flats. I also tried the Fender flats with green silks. That lasted about 10 minutes for the same reasons as CamdenRob. Even with truss rod and action sorted I did not enjoy the experience, made my DB with spiro mittel seem quite low tension. The 50-105s seem quite firm even on a 30" scale bass, tone is good though.

Try those within sensible travelling distance. Do not be put off by speaker size as Dad pointed out. One of the best guitar combos I have used was a Peavey 15" bass combo. Big expansive full guitar tone, go figure . Choose the one that sound best to you.

Lots of good suggestions in previous posts, get out and try basses. Various Peavey basses appear at bargain prices: Modern bass - milestone iii can be found for £60 add emg pickups s/h £50. Better still in my view, 'vintage' USA peavey basses crop up (ebay, BC, gumtree) at £150 / £180 ish some have been way below this These are on a par with other USA brands (I own / or have owned them). At this price point strings £30 to £50 become a significant cost. Learn to do own setups

[quote name='warwickhunt' timestamp='1449351834' post='2922906'] I'd sell the bass... patently at a MASSIVELY reduced price; I'll take it off your hands, as a favour. A replacement MEC can turn up but EMG and Aguilar have worked well for me in the past. [/quote] And if warwickhunt does not I will have 2nd dibs. Sitiuation 1. I have two corvettes, one active one not. I do not find the active a vast improvement - my amp has controls as well, as does a Sansamp VT. Turn the bass into a passive? situation 2. I have fitted two Artec SE2 pre amps to basses (Aria and Corvette Rockbass), they are very good, I personally do not see what £££ beyond them will get you in all reality.

AC/DC - ride on - guitar just rolls like waves in sea (no comments about my mental state please) Free - Mr Big - timing and feel drums and guitar Time the revelator - Gillian Welch - discords

Purchased a pre amp from Paul.. Excellent communication, brilliant packing and very rapid arrival. Thanks.

If you are getting new tubes fitted etc seems good to get tech to check & sort it all out. I know of the auction you refer to, you did well.

[quote name='johnnysomersett' timestamp='1449091688' post='2920781'] Not that Im' any good at reading schematics, but, from what little I know about internals of amps, the B+ is the voltage across the tubes right? So likely an issue connected with said old sh*tty Peavey-branded tubes? [/quote] You are correct with B+ (or HT in British money). It could be tube issues - tubes, tube sockets, assorted resistors to achieve HT voltages, could be capacitors or diodes in power supply, could be failed solder connection or insulation somewhere. There, that narrowed it down (not). Open it up, have a look for anything obvious - burned / charred (or even destroyed) components. It might be a simple (cheap diy) fix. Remember the smoothing capacitors may be charged and can give serious electric shock. Yours was NOS, is there another one?

[url="http://www.hartsafire.com/classic400/"]http://www.hartsafire.com/classic400/[/url] has schematics and some interesting info. The only 2A slow blow fuse (at a quick glance) is on the main PSU for the HT (B+). Looks like a great amp, I think I want one - I like older Peavey kit, it is repairable, the schematics are easy to find and support at Peavey is excellent. I asked some 'left field' questions about early valve amp transformers and got excellent technical answers very quickly.

Try 'stuff' and see what works. I found my Peavey 700 transistor amp to be much more to my taste than the VBA 400 I also had at the same time. [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]Tech21 VT DI is very impressive, I would like the Hiwatt equivalent. Most impressive amp (not bass) I have tried recently - a Stagg transistor practice amp, instant with cheapo tele copy and rusty strings. I would say better than my fender valve amp and USA tele. YMMV go figure.[/font][/color]