3below

[quote name='Naetharu' timestamp='1442696586' post='2868889'] For what its worth my take on Fender is that they make nice basses but charge over the odds for them. At the end of the day even the MIA stuff is still just production line factory made and it's selling for over £1200 for a pretty basic passive bass. You're coughing up a lot of money for the name on the head-stock. On the other hand, that same name on the head stock will mean they retain value well so its not as clear cut as it seems at first. [/quote] This +1, they (Fender and many others) are mass produced CNC machined products. Compare them to laptops, washing machines, mobile phones,TVs, or X boxes etc. Look at the amount of technology and manufacturing processes involved and then reflect on what we get for the money. I have two basses that are broadly directly comparable: Alder body, maple neck, humbucker pickup, rosewood board, large tuners 4 a side. Both have comparable action and sound pretty similar. It must be the decal on the headstock that makes one worth approx 10x the other s/h?.

[quote name='Thunderbird' timestamp='1442690155' post='2868826'] At the end of the day I suppose its horses for courses [/quote] Very much so I suspect. These days I just enjoy playing any reasonable bass, be it £100 to £OMG and enjoy the differences. There are good and bad examples of all, most of which can be sorted with good setup. I am still not taken by the Columbus, Kay (Woolworths?), Jedson and Avon basses of my youth - yet.

Changed strings recently or need a change of strings?

[quote name='kodiakblair' timestamp='1442402262' post='2866638'] There's also the £108 Harley Benton one. [url="http://www.thomann.de/gb/harley_benton_jb_40fl_sb.htm"]http://www.thomann.d..._jb_40fl_sb.htm[/url] If it sounds and plays like their JB-75 You're on a winner. [/quote] Having just looked, the specification is just amazing for the money basses are becoming like bic razors, no need for refrets, adjustments etc, just disposable at this price.

Not at all usual in my experience, however I do live in Wales. Does your bass have a dual action truss rod with the walnut (?) access plug at the nut end. My Telecaster developed a loose plug (glue failure) which resulted in subtle truss rod issues. This was spotted when I admitted defeat and got a professional setup. Solved with some glue Some truss rods end up crushing neck wood due to inadequate size washer behind adjuster.

[quote name='rogerstodge' timestamp='1442261055' post='2865631'] ive got a satin sg bass , is it a simple job mate? [/quote] yes And so far (1 year later) not destructive at all. I used Liberon dark oak wax (my bass was chocolate brown) and just rubbed in with cloth. Allow to soak / dry and polish off (shoe brush is good). Have given it several goes over the year. You will get a better result by slackening strings and removing knobs the first time, makes it easier in those areas. The neck is super with this finish - if I ever get round to building myself a bass this is what I will use. I also use the same wax on my Warwicks and all is good. Disclaimer - it worked for me, YMMV.

Route 66

Simple low cost solution - pull jack plug partially out of amplifier input. Switch to active or passive. Push jack plug in. Works every time but not ideal if you are doing this mid tune.

How exact a copy do you want the guitar(s) to be, to the nearest 0.5mm, a few mm? Broadly right to within 5mm (obviously critical dimensions e.g. neck pockets must be spot on, but these will be done with router templates I am assuming)

[quote name='JJW' timestamp='1441724290' post='2861224'] I wanted to do it from other specific guitar, i wanted to take a picture of a guitar I like and be able to make a template like the template in the picture (just the outline) I dont mind having them on mulitple sheets but they are now printing the correct size. [/quote] One issue you will probably encounter with taking a picture and then producing a template is the perspective distortion introduced by camera position relative to the object

AKG D5 - sounded best when we A/Bd it with several others for female singer. Try several in good music shop.

Print image as large as possible onto A4 graph paper. Find big squared paper. Use the original A4 print to give coordinates and just scale up onto the big squared paper. Another easy way is to find a friend / colleague who has IT skill and a big printer. Provide suitable incentive and you will get a template printed out.

[quote name='Slipperydick' timestamp='1441569842' post='2859957'] Save the picture, crop and re size it in paintbox, save that on a stick, take stick to a decent high stationery shop and as them to print it on A2 paper. Low tech solution like that should cost you about a quid. [/quote] +1 for the obvious

On the well known auction site you will find pantographs for about £8. Use one of these to trace round and enlarge the image directly onto mdf or plywood.

Following on from the trace image method on screen: large sheet of paper, stick on wall. Use pc projector at a suitable distance to project image on paper. Draw round image . Stick paper on mdf or ply, bandsaw and file away till happy. I would recommend carrying out a full written risk assessment and then wearing personal protective equipment when playing the guitar, could take someone's eye with those points Good luck with the build.

Suspect rasp and sandapaper as mentioned earlier. I would also make a template gauge with the correct chamfer. Use this to check for consistency (often) and with skill do not take too much off.

[quote name='RockfordStone' timestamp='1441405703' post='2858758'] i forget on a weekly basis and often wonder how i have managed thus far its like riding a bike [/quote] +1 On one occasion which will live with me forever, I played like I had bought a bass two days previously. 40 yrs bass playing had been lost.

Result

KK bass pickup and pre bought. Super fast arrival, brilliant packing. Excellent communication. Thanks

Do we have a cure yet?

Endorsements & commercial interests or am I just cynical?