3below

Buy something in USA, avoid import, freight (both ways) and import back issues. Find something useful and cheap that if lost, damaged, stolen etc does not matter and will not depreciate. Even better find something unusual, different and bring it back and move on here. There are plenty of basses out there

If you want a USA built bass G&L still represent excellent value. Compare 80s Fender prices against 80s G&L. Then look at the actual basses and features such as bilaminate neck, cast bridge and metal crackle scratchplate. The 'smaller' SB1 body is very comfortable for those of us who are vertically challenged.

Someone will no doubt mention a very famous fretless Jazz bass player so I will suggest listening to Boz Burrell and Jack Bruce. Plucking strings with side of finger double bass style is another useful technique.

[quote name='Roland Rock' timestamp='1433358782' post='2790478'] This!! [url="http://basschat.co.uk/topic/257114-fsfd-warwick-streamer-std-in-blue-final-price-drop-l330/"]http://basschat.co.u...rice-drop-l330/[/url] [/quote] I have played that very bass - lightweight and outstanding value at that price.

[quote name='RJ87' timestamp='1433281294' post='2789812'] I find Warwick necks a handfull. I've got several Ibanez' including a 25th anniversary sr and I love 'em all. Every time I pick up my Warwick it feels like hard work in comparison. You really need to try both IMHO. Oh and the Nordy big singles are amazzing! ;-) [/quote] I have two German Corvettes and the necks are very different in profile: thin and slim, deep and chunky (a good handful ). One has a bubinga body, the other is ash and again they are very different to handle. Can't comment about tone differences due to body wood since one is fretless. Very sound advice about trying. Also have in my possession an Ibanez with 32" scale length, it is a great thing to play.

German streamer on here £330. I have even played that very bass whilst I bought a Corvette from same BCer (Dogz73 - no relation or hidden interest) Used Warwicks are bargain of the moment. There was also a German Corvette FS at £380 very sensible money, has now gone. A while back there was a gorgeous ash body German Corvette - £350? £375?

Tuners: You might seek out some G&L tuners with the aluminium posts. They do come up from time to time on the well known internet auction site and (I think) are the same size. Strap: I just get wide leather strip and punch own holes for straplocka / strap buttons - easy to get leather with rough back - way cheaper than 'name brand' straps And the other 'hidden' factor - the shirt you wear. Just like straps some are better than others at gripping and preventing neck dive.

[quote name='mentalextra' timestamp='1433103631' post='2787906'] They've been doing this for some time .... and what 'did' happen to the [i]guitar improver[/i]? [/quote] As stated this has been going on for years, prior to the Internet it was through checking classifieds (exchange and mart anyone?) and local papers. If they do not data mine ebay / gumtree / basschat etc etc it will be beyond belief. Quite how many private sales you are allowed before you qualify as a dealer is an interesting question. There is also the question of capital gains on even a few sales. Answers from law enforcement and accountancy / taxation BCers welcome.

Bought Tri-Ac from Gilles - excellent communication, well packed and rapid arrival Many Thanks

[quote name='anaxcrosswords' timestamp='1432334281' post='2780697'] Whenever I listen back to old recordings I’ve done (original songs) one thing really grates. I seemed unable to stop myself from adding at least one grace note before leaving a 4-bar phrase – on so many occasions it would have been better to just let the root note stay where it was. It’s not that these grace notes are unmusical. They’re simply unnecessary, at least they feel that way now. We all do it, don’t we? Don’t we? Do you find it hard to just let that last note ring out? [/quote] Similar experience with songs that I have played for many years live then recorded. Grace notes that seem to 'drive' the bass and drums forward just did not sound at all right on the recording.

Staggering price. When you factor in profit at various stages it makes you wonder what it costs to produce ex factory.

[quote name='Kiwi' timestamp='1432291593' post='2780049'] When was it built? [/quote] 1982 - 86. Wiring on an eyelet board, spaghetti rather than Hi-Watt precision. Some excellent pictures and info here: [url="http://www.stratopastor.org.uk/strato/amps/prii/PRII_hub.html"]http://www.stratopas...i/PRII_hub.html[/url]

[quote name='Veganarchist' timestamp='1432237448' post='2779654'] From what I can gather a heat-gun and some good old fashioned elbow grease is the easiest way. Obviously I have to be mindful to keep the gun moving so as not to scorch the wood but that shouldn't be a problem. I dont mind if its an arse of a job. A little hard work to end up with a bass I want to play more will be worth it. [/quote] I tried that on a bass body (bought from BC at bargain price). Having done it successfully to a 1970s Fender in the 1970s (youthful stupidity) I thought it would be easy. However lady luck was not with me this time, it seemed very easy to 'burn' the body.

You might be in for a tough job removing what is probably a polyester finish. It might be better to apply a new solid colour over the blue (after suitable sanding).

Great amplifier, I regret parting with mine. As to price I have no idea.

[quote name='Bill Fitzmaurice' timestamp='1432209359' post='2779182'] You probably would have to open it up to find identifying markings. [/quote] Impeccable advice as usual, you might get lucky with labels or other manufacturing info inside.

[quote name='ValveWorrier' timestamp='1431950639' post='2776459'] I've got the roundwounds on it that I think came with the guitar...but I do have some 45-105 short scale flats I'm going to try once my Hipshot bridge arrives. Hopefully the Hipshot will also cure the bridge saddle silk winding overlap issue. [/quote] It did on mine. With the Hipshot saddles the lock screw will stick up slightly and 'snags' on your hand (unless you are lucky). I put the lock screws in from underneath the saddles which sorted this issue. I also mailed Hipshot about the issue with suggestions about how to fix the problem.

[quote name='ValveWorrier' timestamp='1431848436' post='2775433'] the E-string has the short scale flap.... [/quote] 105 Chromes seem to have sorted that one for me

[quote name='Weststarx' timestamp='1431421005' post='2771006'] Nothing worse than old strings! [/quote] [quote name='4-string-thing' timestamp='1431426455' post='2771116'] Haha, nothing worse than new strings! (imo) [/quote] I am on the latter, 8 yr old TIs on G&L, barely run in. Roto Tru Bass strings on acoustic bass, as fitted from new, 35 years old and still good, am I cheap The bass concerned was played at many gigs in the 1980s, strings got used heavily.

Is the G string 'falling off the neck'? Too close to the fingerboard edge? If this is the case, the issue is probably the alignment of neck to body. Slacken the strings, loosen the neck bolts (screws) slightly and then (boldly) tap the headstock towards the top horn (towards left of bass looking from front). Tighten the neck bolts and re-tune. Should be good to go.

[quote name='JTUK' timestamp='1431629050' post='2773448'] Not my thing, but my post was taking into account the OP talked about flexibility in sound and style, which isn't something I'd put at the door of an SG [/quote] Perfectly flexible - you just need to change strings to get the sound you want- this can be a bit tedious between numbers at a gig

Bought a set of TIs from Paul. As above, spot on, arrived next day, excellent communication. Thanks.