Downunderwonder

Yes. Clickbait is by definition a title designed to draw views with false or tenuous indication of the actual content. In contrast, he has a genuine grievance and if it serves to inform consumers, or even get Fender Corp to put it right, it's no bad thing.

The other consideration is the sensitivity, aka dB per watt. For twin cabs wired parallel you add 6dB to the quoted sensitivity spec, hoping like hell it is honestly applying to the 70 to 140hz octave. Then you add 3dB for each doubling of 1w they can handle before power compression kicks in. 1 2 4 8 16 32 64 128...256 is stretching a little but what the heck, 8x. Add 24+6 = +30dB to the number Orange gives for 1 cab. Might pay to do some research on their veracity. The Barefaced 12'' driver isn't so sensitive but eats up wattage. I believe they claim 97dB honest broadband sensitivity and 512W isn't a big stretch when rated to 600W. 97 plus 27 is 124dB. Barefaced come to 127dB so they are not allowing for power compression and even cribbing some extra mathematically speaking when they call it 800w in the Big Baby. Tbf they do call it Max ~dB which I guess it could do in a thump without breaking. Super Twin is a smaller cab minus HF driver and gets 133dB ~ max output with 1200w so maybe ~130 with the Terror giving its all.

Google fails me.

If you were being called out to unblock drains you'd probably want all of the band's pay and a bit more.

I think if you put a big twin under it the aesthetic would be the last thing on your mind. You could always demo one and then special order a new one in Orange orange.

Not having any luck searching DiMille patent 1925. Anyone know what that's about?

Depends on the 8'' drivers though. While the TC ones are likely wildly overrated per the TC playbook a pair of Trace Elf 2x8 is reviewed as happy with 500w and more. Expensive Faital drivers make them pretty boutique buying.

Depends what you mean by headroom. I doubt there is anything special about the 12 in those cabs. Two should get very loud and run out of puff somewhere around the same time as the amp. Trouble comes if there's enough poke left in the amp to hurt the cabs. No way of telling except to try but I expect if you dialed in a bit of low end boost and no HPF you could fart the cabs.

What this thread needs is a directory. Youse jokers should have a better idea than me of how to divvy up the UK so recommended techs can be found in a search of the driveable regions from the unfortunate with the smoked amp. County by County? Police Districts? That would be a lot more useful than a whole lot of plaintive cries for help from every corner that mostly remain unanswered.

When I got the secret sauce right all of a sudden I began to get compliments on my tone left and right. This having played bass for 20 years.

Maybe they have a bongo playing sax player already and can fill a gap either way.

What's up with the metal bit holding back the amp? It looks like just enough to wedge it against the top of the guitar stand, or it has a bump inserting into the stand?

I hope you have sung their praises on the good amp tech thread. The world needs more real fixit people in it.

I was unloading PA. One lazy git sauntered past me carrying a McDonalds wrapper. I forget what I said but the look on his face was as if I had threatened to deck him. He instantly forgot about putting his wrapper in a bin and his new priority in life was humping gear.

BL: ''you'll be happy you're getting a riser all to yourself at this show''. Turn up with enough time to set up, riser is covered in sax and trombone cases. Guess who gets it in the neck for holding up the soundcheck.

If you want to be heard far and wide stack the cabs up in their tall directions and don't stand right in front of it.

Clear film that is also satin finished or you will have a fashion fubar with glossy patches of tape. Alternatively you could use some easy off sign vinyl from your local sign shop in a complimentary shade.

Double wall cardboard cut so all the top edge forms a plane that supports the bass of the cab while the tail of the cab sits on the floor. Solid as a rock but don't flood it with a jug of beer unless wrapped in duct tape. It will stow in the cab port. Z plate hooked over cab to hold amp or the tall feet trick. If you spec it right it will also stow in the cab port.

The last plus keys gig I did was very small scale. Plan was to put his keys through my FR rig but thankfully he was erring on caution that I might not make it so he brought his weenie amp. As it happened I was last minute arrival for setup and he was all set so we boxed on. No mud since his rig couldn't make any!

Pointing cab up like that gives you a mega shot of the mids that were entertaining your calves. That's not losing low end as the cab is still well inside the range where the floor reflection sums with the port and front waves.

No algebra required to move the bridge back. I made a sound hole cover cut out of the black plastic top off a yogurt tub and some foam stuck to the back. Something similar could go in the bridge pickup hole.

Because low end peaks cause very high speaker excursions with much higher voltage for a short time. This can be indicated by the ''burst power'' rating of the amp which some makers use as the number on the front. Farting sounds are hard to hear at the loud end of operating, particularly with distorted guitars accompanying. They may even sound 'cool' in that context.

Winner.

I'll give you an example. If I had followed your advice when I was a beginner my 165w into 8 ohm 250w Trace amp would have destroyed my 300w Trace cab. So please quit with the advice to ''just play it'' because it will be ''too loud already'' before damage occurs. It's wrong.

If going the tall amp feet route make good and sure the screws don't finish further inside the case than the original. People have blown up amps when their feet were thinner internally or they used substitute screws and underside circuit board amp guts got grounded.