Downunderwonder

Well it has a very good phone as it was on the top page of search results for Facebook scam. I hope to check back and see Smethurst in 90's lights.

I stand corrected. There was one for sale that I toyed with buying but they didn't mention the DI or photograph that side! Plenty of sounds in it. Are the knobs on pots or the electronic memory position adjusters like BDDI Deluxe?

No DI on that one. More on the BDDI Deluxe: Three saving channels that can be pre programmed for fx loop in or out, drive, eq, blend and output. Plus bypass mode. Changes made on the fly revert to the saved settings unless saved over the top. Nobrainer to me when the BDDI was used on the recording.

https://www.ripandscam.com/submit-scammer.php Has the right idea but yet to snowball.

Black Sabbath published bass tab or BS endorsed some enthusiast's publication, or just a pirate publication? Most internet free tab is worth what you pay for it. There was a full bass notation for The Man Who Sold The World in a guitar mag 25 years ago. That was very handy. I couldn't tell if it was 'the record' accurate but beat the hell out of learning it off the record.

Generally tube amps are happy with slightly less impedance for the tap, but when it is more they can get hot. I think it would probably be ok at 12 ohm parallel with BB2 for net 4.8ohm on the 4 ohm tap. Not sure that 8+4 》 2.6 ohm on the 4 ohm is still in the happy zone. Mixing cabs is always a gamble that the blended tone works.

I wouldn't be too sure about that. Burning up a cab is usually user error, even if it is initiated by unrealistic marketing expectations and a lack of background knowledge. When you turn up and it doesn't get louder you should turn it down some. If you don't it will heat up and can burn up if you lay into the bass for too long. If it ever seems quieter but you turn up some more that is when you burn it. The getting quieter is the driver motor getting hot and increasing resistance. Turning up instead of down makes a runaway condition where the increased voltage makes it hotter still and soon it is very very quiet. Ratings are only a very rough guide to selection for purpose.

Loads of Ashdown 50 and 100w heads in use. Ampeg reissued theirs. If by efficiency you mean get the job done with less to haul then BF is right up there. That is not the definition.

If the Sansamp drive works for you at various knob positions you could simply get a Deluxe BDDI. That would give you 3 channels plus bypass. So a clean Sansamp or clean-ish, and two more levels of O/D/ volume boosts on the three channels, and the bypass totally clean and lower level for intro's. I did the quiet/loud/ quiet thing with more pedals and funky jazz. The core was the BDDI Deluxe.

BF cabs aren't efficient power users. They do use a lot of power to get low and cause enough loudness to cause plenty of hearing damage though. Lesser cabs will widdle all over a BF Compact with only 100w going in. That is the definition of efficiency.

That would take a fancier switch than what is needed for just A/P? If your multimeter reads mA you could put it between one terminal and the battery and see if it jogs on and off with the switch.

How the heck do you get the braid over your cable????

Never mind the bollox. I wouldn't call myself an expert but I get most of my gigs from being able to use a music stand. A rookie would complain the bass doesn't have an off on switch for the preamp.

Seems a total misread of the cab market to me too. Amp looks like it ticked all the boxes moving along from Elf but 210's in the style of the 88's was all they needed to add to the cab line. I still can't get over the amp knobs. Backlit with green suns looks snazzy in good light but impossible to read the dot in dim stage light.

The other possibility is the burning smell actually came from the cab. It's certainly possible to toast a higher rated cab with a lower rated amp by making it all go as loud as possible.

Your Ampeg has just about bit the dust. Aka one foot in the grave. Aka on its last legs. I reckon a fault in the cab would have sent the sound bad before the amp quit. Quid pro quo, the amp went toaster mode of its own accord. It's a mystery to me how it reset and continues operating after letting out magic smoke.

https://schalltechnik04.de/en/instructions/vong-filterung available in EU.

I suspect battery life will trend from not good to miserable unless it's digital.

If you turn it up until it doesn't hardly get any louder than before, and then back off a smidge for good measure, you should never blow it up unless you go crazy with the low EQ.

Some NZ boffins have come up with a way to extract Lithium from the volcanic bore water used in geothermal electric plants. The gummint has taken a 20% stake to give them the capital to scale it into production. They already have a plant extracting useful amounts of silica for export. I wonder if there's any neodymium going to waste.

My last post I navigated away and it showed on the home page being the most recent post in that forum.

The Heritage SVT's were assembled in the USA. 'Component' parts from Asia were entire built up circuit boards. Ampeg USA had only to plug them in to one another and test = assembled. So none the wiser on whether Heritage B15 were handwired in the USA or assembled from handwired parts.

If even YT transmits 30hz your headphones won't do anything audible there but distort as you turn up. The distortion is audible, but it's at 60 and 120hz. You can do this with your '30 hz response' bass cabinets, but don't break them! If you send a 60hz sine that is only just audible, then send same voltage at 30hz you won't hear diddly squat. Bumping up the voltage until it becomes audible you will jump out of your skin if you you send 60hz at same voltage. It will sound oddly familar once you turn it down.

It's ok to gas a bit. I prefer not having to worry about batteries myself, but you do you.

But is it hand wired and assembled in the USA? Or is it handwired, and assembled in the USA?