Downunderwonder

A luthier will always want to fill extraneous holes. You could fill them with boogers and it wouldn't make a blind bit of difference under the new bridge position out of sight. Do you not have any hand tools to go with that measuring tape? Shifting the bridge would make the most difference as to making it recordable v pretty wall ornament. All you need is a hand drill.

When the question is asked it is always a two channel amp with significant power available from both channels. In most cases there's a cab rated to just over the single channel output. A bad plan brews, they know it's a bad plan, but they ask the question anyway.

Power is voltage x current. If you supply more voltage while the load is the same you get current going up by the same factor. That means power increases by the square of the voltage. Handily summed up as Power = volts²/resistance when using Watts Volts and Ohms. That's DC maths for resisistors but if you work with the RMS of an A/C voltage it also applies to speaker impedances.

Never had any complaints with rigs. One time I was told the extensive monitor system meant I didn't need to drag my rig on stage. 'Sweet' thinks me. Bzzz wrong, too late, worst sound on stage ever. One good monitor would have been better than the forest of junk.

Too much available voltage is the problem. With inexperienced users it's like giving a toddler the leash on a rottweiler. Sure the dog is well trained and only does what it's told, but it just isn't a good idea. The environment in which you are 'needing' a metric buttload of power isn't conducive to hearing the cries of dying speakers if you overdo it. Getting all available headroom into play is highly overrated. The last 3dB of volume achievable is only going to be realised with twice as much power as before. 3dB isn't much extra loudness. If it isnt loud enough you need more speakers, or a quieter guitarist. I was reading specs on BB2 this morning. Max output 137dB iirc. With half the max power it's still 134 freaking dB.

Probably to give yourself less chance of blowing another set of drivers with your 1000w amp.

It used to be the price was the price here in NZ. Gradually there has been a shift to savvy consumer negotiating and being sucessful. 30 some years ago when I left NZ on my OE my worldly wise older cousin put me up to getting a hefty discount on a backpack, sleeping bag and boots as a package deal.

Hinky. It might say Fender on it, but I doubt that is even a Squier.

I think on the BB2 the 'tweeter' is a proper horn and the knob is a control on a crossover that sweeps the mid point, so not an attenuator as such. That being the case it might explain why ''off'' clears it up some and why BF sent you a new woofer without a full diagnostic check. I still reckon they jumped the gun on that.

Not exactly. The mic needs to go into another 'mic' preamp that provides the Trace with working signal.

My Trace amp needs the pre2 engaged or it feeds back. Whatever mids it cuts is right in breadbasket of the primary feedback frequency of my bass. You should definitely try out the rig with a bit of volume to see where you are at with FB.

I had it's descendant model from early 90's, full on station wagon in miniature. That thing was a springer spaniel in sheep's clothing with a 1600 twin cam motor. Out on the highway it had very good ability to sneak up on fancy motors dawdling and blow past on the corner exit before they could boot it and cut me off. I think the most I carried in one go was rack of amp plus double bass & fretless in case plus 2x15 and music stand.

That's a really easy way to blow the cab to bits.

I think they must have dropped reading comprehension practice and testing from the education system.

Repositioning the bridge only takes a drill and screwdriver. Take bridge off. Mark the new holes through the bridge in the new position. Drill new row of holes. Sucess.

Fiddle player is the main gig booker? I think you know where you stand there.

Best reposition the bridge per Skank and then see about the rest.

Put together a killer three piece and take all their gigs.

Measuring the G side would give a better idea, but the octave measure back the other way to the nut looks to be more than what you have got anyway, with thf saddles backed all the way back = fubar placement. Fix that and your intonation problem will be history. Hard to make out any twist in your pics.

Until you get a feel for 1 cab vs 2 you need to be cautious with that. Getting the last watt through 1 twelve is well and good until it isn't. The rating does NOT mean you can let fly with the amp and the cab will take it.

Read the other post twice more. Square waves are not square. Regarding the OP, many times I have heard of stray material getting in through the port and lodging behind the cone. Everything from a Homer Simpson toy to a lolly wrapper. The other gotcha is a dying battery in your bass preamp or a pedal. You would have to really slam a BB2 for it to break the woofer. Rig up some music through it at low volume and increase. If it gets deafening without the distortion you'll need some very good hearing protection. Putting your ear down to the speakers you should be able to hear if it's coming from the horn or the 12.

No. Speed is velocity, a unit of distance / time. Frequency is how often something happens, unit kinda abstract but always /time Independent of what is being described, the kicker is the wavelength, over which distance it takes an observer to experience the wave repeat. Velocity = frequency x wavelength Turning up the loud knob makes the cone fly further making it louder, doesn't change the frequency. To travel further in the same time it must be travelling faster.

The faster the speaker cone moves the further it must travel to maintain the frequency relationship. Both of those take more power to do. Low bass eats power.

Check the scale length. From the sound of it the bridge is too close to the neck. Measure the nut to 12th fret. Should be same again to the bridge.