Downunderwonder

Most of us probably bought a matching first new rig or someone's matching cast off first new rig. Only because we didn't know any better, and because it looked cool and made sense all at the same time and when does that ever happen?

You shouldn't. I mainly play fretless unlined and don't feel particularly clever about the parlour trick that it is. There's dots up the side for if I get lost, which does happen. Intonation is something you either get or you don't.

If we assume you could be wrong about that you should try inserting a lead into the fx send return loop. This will remove the possiblity it is the switch contact in the loop jack playing up.

Need correct screwdriver for the bridge screws and the correct hex keys for all the adjustments. The correct one will fit the fixing like a glove. 'Close not enough' will have a little play.

I don't know why you would attempt to damp before EQ treatment.

The old joke: Johnny gets home from his 1st bass lesson. Mum enquires how it went. ''Today I learned 8th notes on the E''. Next week it's ''8th notes on the A''. The following week Johnny rolls in at 10.30pm. ''WHERE THE HELL HAVE YOU BEEN?". ''Today I learned the turnaround and had my first gig down at the Dog 'n' Duck!!!". Which is where is coming from, but seriously, it has indeed been long enough already already.

If anyone else is looking, there's a very well priced Trace Elliot Elf in the classifieds presently.

I am thinking about ditching my bells and whistles preamp as I only really need the tuner in it for rehearsals. I can put my tuner back on. Probably ditch the highpass filter and make do with the bass knob. Then I can skateboard to rehearsal.

The lighter the body the more you give the upper horn the 'boner' treatment.

If you can move 1 speaker a couple of ft you might get interference in the bass enough to reduce it. You can put EQ on the case and cut the bejesus out of the offending frequencies. Much easier than damping it out after the fact.

Don't forget the old VCVCGSCCfade

Most amps with an fx loop will let you plug into the fx return cutting out the onboard preamp altogether. SCR > Power Amp > speaker. The Quilter Bass amp was developed via Talkbass forum initially as a power block to take pedals but as it proceeded it became clear it would sell better with a few extra preamp features. Knobs at noon is supposed to be entirely neutral. Markbass ironically some of the few that don't run serial fx loop.

It won't hurt anything to test it if you can't figure it out from the manual. By rights a full range fx loop should have the EQ in already and if you are using other fx you simply put the DI in post them and before the fx return. The doubtful bit is the onboard compression might be post all of that.

Suggest you look at the item and the price and deduce your BP immediately rising before avoiding that fate by moving on without clicking.

Which tradition(s)?

That old stuff is new again. Even Madonna stuff is from before today's youff was born. Must be about ten years ago anything Beatles would get a huge rise out of the younger set at an open mic. I was house bassist, even with me only 'knowing how it goes, sorta, what's the key?''...1234... riot on the dancefloor. My 16 year old niece has a vinyl collection heavy on David Bowie and ELO. Go figure.

Presume you are talking about the vintage SMX badboy? Iirc there's a button for for stereo / full range so I am thinking you need to send both L and R to PA. Good luck with that. An easier way would run the mono fx loop full range but use it to send to another DI.

Eyetrometer suggests you have a excess truss rod tension engaged at that rate, or at least flat. Is there any relief?

Not really. Mine is around 3mm at 12th fret. It will buzz a little if I dig in.

There's two ways you could find the action acceptable at the 12th fret with it as pictured. 1, you like a metric buttload of action. Or 2, someone has given the truss rod a real workout already. I hope you are using the proper hex tools on it.

The bridge pickup has plenty of room to go down, so lowering the maxed up saddles is a nobrainer first step. Get those in the ballpark before any other adjustments.

Any too loud guitarist made to point his own cab at his own head will turn down voluntarily.

Too loud is all relative. You could find yourself in the danger zone I mentioned in the first reply. This is when you turn up just a little more, and a little more, then a little more doesn't add any more volume but cooks the driver. Beware of volume creep over the course of gig or rehearsal.

Any reason you couldn't turn the cab upside down? If I was you I would run a cord all the way across and around the cab, up and over and around a 2fer hanger doofer and back again. It won't go anywhere.