Downunderwonder

I am thinking about ditching my bells and whistles preamp as I only really need the tuner in it for rehearsals. I can put my tuner back on. Probably ditch the highpass filter and make do with the bass knob. Then I can skateboard to rehearsal.

The lighter the body the more you give the upper horn the 'boner' treatment.

If you can move 1 speaker a couple of ft you might get interference in the bass enough to reduce it. You can put EQ on the case and cut the bejesus out of the offending frequencies. Much easier than damping it out after the fact.

Don't forget the old VCVCGSCCfade

Most amps with an fx loop will let you plug into the fx return cutting out the onboard preamp altogether. SCR > Power Amp > speaker. The Quilter Bass amp was developed via Talkbass forum initially as a power block to take pedals but as it proceeded it became clear it would sell better with a few extra preamp features. Knobs at noon is supposed to be entirely neutral. Markbass ironically some of the few that don't run serial fx loop.

It won't hurt anything to test it if you can't figure it out from the manual. By rights a full range fx loop should have the EQ in already and if you are using other fx you simply put the DI in post them and before the fx return. The doubtful bit is the onboard compression might be post all of that.

Suggest you look at the item and the price and deduce your BP immediately rising before avoiding that fate by moving on without clicking.

Which tradition(s)?

That old stuff is new again. Even Madonna stuff is from before today's youff was born. Must be about ten years ago anything Beatles would get a huge rise out of the younger set at an open mic. I was house bassist, even with me only 'knowing how it goes, sorta, what's the key?''...1234... riot on the dancefloor. My 16 year old niece has a vinyl collection heavy on David Bowie and ELO. Go figure.

Presume you are talking about the vintage SMX badboy? Iirc there's a button for for stereo / full range so I am thinking you need to send both L and R to PA. Good luck with that. An easier way would run the mono fx loop full range but use it to send to another DI.

Eyetrometer suggests you have a excess truss rod tension engaged at that rate, or at least flat. Is there any relief?

Not really. Mine is around 3mm at 12th fret. It will buzz a little if I dig in.

There's two ways you could find the action acceptable at the 12th fret with it as pictured. 1, you like a metric buttload of action. Or 2, someone has given the truss rod a real workout already. I hope you are using the proper hex tools on it.

The bridge pickup has plenty of room to go down, so lowering the maxed up saddles is a nobrainer first step. Get those in the ballpark before any other adjustments.

Any too loud guitarist made to point his own cab at his own head will turn down voluntarily.

Too loud is all relative. You could find yourself in the danger zone I mentioned in the first reply. This is when you turn up just a little more, and a little more, then a little more doesn't add any more volume but cooks the driver. Beware of volume creep over the course of gig or rehearsal.

Any reason you couldn't turn the cab upside down? If I was you I would run a cord all the way across and around the cab, up and over and around a 2fer hanger doofer and back again. It won't go anywhere.

I see what you're getting at but hopefully you misstated whatever Alex was saying. Any amp is fine so long as the cabinet isn't distorting or going so far into power compression that it burns up. I guess Alex slapped on a 500w ''safety'' limit out of desperation, knowing that your average '500'w amp these days is more like 250wRMS anyway.

Everything ok?

Very strange. Ordinarily a cab rated for 250w RMS would be clean, to whatever standard of small amount of allowed distortion, up to 250w of whatever standard signal applied. Sure you can run that amp into it. Just don't make it sound nasty and stop turning it up when it doesn't get any louder, turn it back down a bit!

I like how your drummer responds with a little lilt when you turn around and groove with him.

Dunno. Most likely, reading between the lines, it's probably something like 300w RMS into 8 ohm. It doesn't really matter if you are following the advice already given. Read it all again. My 250w Trace amp puts out 165w RMS into 8 ohms. No problem for it to beat up my Trace 1518 300w cab. By beat up I mean break it with low end wattage as opposed to burn the driver motor wiring. Transient peak output is 500w and it will do 16th note open E's all day. I would say the 600w rating on your Ashdown cab has to be 'program' power or some marketing device. I don't know what your amp can really do but I venture my Trace could smash it. Once more, ignore the ratings and use your ears.

Fretless basses. My first bass came with flats so my first string change was the other way around. I have never thought to put flats on a fretted bass.

If I was playing a bunch of weird tunings it might be handy for the nights I give my roady off ( all of them ). But just to tune up, like someone said already, a solution for a problem I never knew I had, still don't have, will never have.