Downunderwonder

Double wall cardboard cut so all the top edge forms a plane that supports the bass of the cab while the tail of the cab sits on the floor. Solid as a rock but don't flood it with a jug of beer unless wrapped in duct tape. It will stow in the cab port. Z plate hooked over cab to hold amp or the tall feet trick. If you spec it right it will also stow in the cab port.

The last plus keys gig I did was very small scale. Plan was to put his keys through my FR rig but thankfully he was erring on caution that I might not make it so he brought his weenie amp. As it happened I was last minute arrival for setup and he was all set so we boxed on. No mud since his rig couldn't make any!

Pointing cab up like that gives you a mega shot of the mids that were entertaining your calves. That's not losing low end as the cab is still well inside the range where the floor reflection sums with the port and front waves.

No algebra required to move the bridge back. I made a sound hole cover cut out of the black plastic top off a yogurt tub and some foam stuck to the back. Something similar could go in the bridge pickup hole.

Because low end peaks cause very high speaker excursions with much higher voltage for a short time. This can be indicated by the ''burst power'' rating of the amp which some makers use as the number on the front. Farting sounds are hard to hear at the loud end of operating, particularly with distorted guitars accompanying. They may even sound 'cool' in that context.

Winner.

I'll give you an example. If I had followed your advice when I was a beginner my 165w into 8 ohm 250w Trace amp would have destroyed my 300w Trace cab. So please quit with the advice to ''just play it'' because it will be ''too loud already'' before damage occurs. It's wrong.

If going the tall amp feet route make good and sure the screws don't finish further inside the case than the original. People have blown up amps when their feet were thinner internally or they used substitute screws and underside circuit board amp guts got grounded.

If you aren't certain you should knock off telling people to have at their cabs in future.

So you weren't stretching the cab. What makes you so certain the OP or any other band isn't loud enough that a 115 is going to be pushed to the limit?

The limiting factor is the cab!

Not joining dots here. No bent sheet metal to be seen, only compressed surround and gasket, and a creased cone.

What didn't you like about it?

You keep saying that but it isn't true. People are playing at the bleeding edge every day. Some blow up their cabs way before they go deaf and some were wearing earplugs. The clever ones examine with plugs just how loud and low they can get before nasty noises happen with clean tones and are wary of distortion pedals hiding the sounds of cab complaining. It's not easy to hear the difference at high volume.

If you give a closer look there is a definite creasing to the right side cone. It looks like 2 sets of damage. Something squidged the surrounds well and truly at some stage, like it was left face down on top of a hard rimmed box for a day or two. The grill got reinstalled. Cone creased at the point of the earlier damage. I think if it was mine I would get the reconing done before OE reconing parts are all gone.

@agedhorse must have got distracted earlier today.

Agedhorse will be along in a bit to tell if there's pukka recone kits for it. GB used a lot of special brew drivers in their cabs.

Use steam infused with the blood of a virgin barmaid? Never heard of this witchcraft either. One would hope UPS told the seller where to go and he coughed for the replacements himself, having innocently failed to notice he had way overpowered his cab at some stage. Hats off to UPS for a change, for delivering a cab with no forklift fork holes.

Yerp, 110w of bass would flap the best driver to bits. It's a guitar amp.

Since learning to control my plucking in multiple ways some years back I have progressed to no longer thinking about it directly, and just do it.

What happens to all the worn out bicycle chains in the UK?

I guess if you can't find a free used bike chain that's the next best deal going. You could always go top down over the side with long screws or coach bolts.

No winners without losers.

Something tells me we've on just begun on this thread.

Gimme a spoke wheel any day if all else is equal. Hex keys get lost. Hex key holes round out in desperation with the wrong key. I reckon a spoke wheel should be almost immune to those issues.