Downunderwonder

Agedhorse might have some 500w frequency response curves to change some minds?

You have concluded without due consideration of all the variables. Removing variables results in a different conclusion!

The material is inherently weak across the panel when subjected to impacts. So long as it doesn't cop a drop or a smack it's fine but woe betide an accident. It is also inherently unsuitable for attaching anything to it with a screw. Go figure. Sure it makes for a super light cab but it's inherently unable to stand up to being smacked around. Horses for courses applies.

You can't A/B anything in a gig. Very hard to do in a rehearsal without determination and help. Real world trial bears naught on the actual issue which is people putting differences down to the class of power amp.

You're talking around the issue. All blind testing afaik has yielded the same results as Agedhorse's GenzBenz team. There is no audible difference between clean running Class D and Class A/B. Btw, blind/blindfold refers to the lack of knowledge of what the subject is playing through, not literal blindfolds. Whatever you are hearing can't be the difference between classes of power stage when there isn't any that can be demonstrated.

Check the actual width. I know old Trace combos had bespoke extra wide cases as the cabinets were much wider than the regular amp cases. Also check there is a lid on the amp, it's mostly extra weight when inside a combo box so may be nothing there!

Except that afaik nobody has found anyone who can tell the difference when blindfolded and given the same preamp on the same rated output amps running clean. Both A/B and D sound like bottom when pushed past clean. Quid pro quo, it's all in the preamp.

Let's see if I have it. Appliances all nominally 230v these days. UK power nominally 230v but actually 240v +13V / -24V so somewhere between 253V and 216V. EU power nominally 230 V and coming out of wall between 248V and 207V. So if an older UK device was meant for 240V but getting 207V it would be 33V under which is almost 14%, might be a problem? And a modern 230V appliance in UK could be getting 253V up it with no problems.

That's the problem right there. Ears get (mis)informed by eyes. If there's something missing when you have a true 800w amp at your disposal, it's not the amp. Agedhorse once explained it far better than I can. Basically with all that power it will quickly expose any limitations of the cab. The OP should read 'Nobody makes a preamp I like on any micro amp I tried'.

GenzBenz went to a great deal of trouble to placate the people in who swore up and down the new D amp was a poor imitation the ''real thing''. At the end of the day they couldn't tell any difference. Their opinions cost a lot of effort to show they didn't hold water. The engineers knew the new one had the goods and they could show the naysayers all the graphs of power output v frequency. That wasn't enough. They had to do a full on double blind trial to show there was no audible difference. Statements of opinions thrown out as facts tend to get pushback.

A Trace Elliot Transit-B might be found used for 300€. All the toys and a tuner in one.

If the amp is parting company with the cab then it's being thrown alright. One little chuck at a time.

You probably want to confirm it's not the pedal or a dud lead before shelling out on a new adapter.

My preference is for a bass break rather than bass solo. RHCP Otherside is very appropriate introducing the bridge refrain.

The room may well have an A tuning that matches the boxes. Try unplugging the top cab. Try swapping the cabs top and bottom etc. If no amount of cab swapping and unplugging does anything but putting a pair of sock socks under the amp does you can be pretty sure the cabs have a resonance by default.

I think it's unlikely a lack of physical capacity causes you to cramp. Much more likely you have been getting away with doing it all wrong until recently. An Alexander Technique teacher may be able to sort you out quite quickly. Or a bass teacher who is familiar. It's all about accomplishing an action with only the necessary muscle contractions, no extraneous tension.

The reference I found says Norway and UK both on 230v 50hz. Maybe some dodgy power where you live in Norway?

Diabolical is a pretty strong word. Agedhorse was in the thick of it when class D was becoming a thing for bass amps. Genz Benz were getting pushback from ''the market'' along the lines of your critique. So they put the new preamp into a pair of boxes, one of each power stage, A/B and D. Nobody could tell a blind bit of difference.

Not Jim Smith@ payscammers.com then?

What's the new Payscammer address?

That's all a bit different from the OP who seems to only accumulate. I buy the odd bass and sell the odd bass also, only stuff I haven't had a go on and want to try. If a bargain comes up I jump on it and it's no trouble to offload without taking a loss. The latest is pretty much 'the one'. It may stay or it may go. 'It's a bit heavy' is the only complaint, otherwise I seem to be covered. A better upright would be nice if I was flush. As for the OP, I would say the time to stop accumulating is long gone when a bunch only rate a mention in passing.

This reminds me. Always examine which way your gear pumps the air. If not careful one bit winds up drawing in the warmed exhaust of the other(s). An amp even sucks on its own sometimes. It's possible to rack up a set of gear that gets hotter and hotter as you go up the rack if you get it really wrong.

Some Markbass have oddball fx loops that don't allow them to just use the power amp return.