If the bass is set up as you want it and nut is defo low, you can put a drop of superglue in the slot and build the slot back up (though you may then need to file back down to suit BUT ensure it is solid dry before doing anything. If it is a good/expensive bass or one you rely on as your gigging tool, I'd be looking at a new nut.
So many different models you need to be aware of and all different values but you are right to point out active v passive (some folks might prefer passive but they originally sold a lot cheaper) and the body woods do affect tone to a degree but it's mainly preference. Oh and be wary of Bubinga basses that are actually stained Ash misadvertised!
I have to say that 2 local (professional) luthiers close to me both refused to refinish a Warwick that I had (SSI waxed) as there was no guarantee you could leech all of the oil/wax out and if you didn't then it could react badly with the paint causing flaking etc.
If you are prepared to sand/strip back several mm of wood from the front and back it may work but they indicated that the wax/oil if applied regularly penetrates quite deep, especially on an old bass.
One final question is your bass a wax finish from new or possibly one of the coated ones which some people mistakenly wax?
Good luck either way.
Wonder if they'll be putting the USA Sterling on the same diet? I've been after a light-weight Sterling for years and they never quite dip in much below 9lb... now if they shave 1lb off the 9lb I'd be interested!
In comparison to a brand new Streamer it is almost the same though CNC manufacturing and hidden fret technology etc make for a more consistent bass. New Streamers will have 3 band EQ but really it is the same bass... just much cheaper if it is old/used!
Comparing it to other new and similar priced basses is pretty pointless as you are comparing apples and oranges!
Yeah the bridges on the ebay deal may not be of the same standard as the 92 but I've seen modern German Wicks and the bridges aren't as 'solid' as I'd expected.
However, the basket case of a bass being offered is only good for parts and I could happily supply anyone with all of 80's 90's parts for £300 and throw in a bag of kindling for free!
Offering £300 was very generous! I saw a whole bag of 'W' hardware (2 sets) sell on ebay for £43, so you'd be paying £257 for a set of used MECs and a preamp (firewood body is free).
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Warwick-Gold-Hardware-Bass-4-String/253319179248?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649
Another warning about Lakkie weights; I've owned a few Lakland Skylines (JO BG DJ) and NONE have been 9lb (never mind less), most have clocked in closer/beyond 10lb. I've heard multiple people say they've had uberlight Lakkies (particularly DJ models) but not one has been able to put them on digital scales and post a pic! Oh and tread very warily of the seller who says that it is 'the lightest P bass they've ever played' (they've only played 1) or that the bathroom scales read less than 9lb... I've got the T shirt for those replies!
Oddly I watched a sound engineer (PA hire) set the desk master fader to '0' (ie max output), all of the channels in use to max and then started increasing the individual channel gains for voices/instruments (active PA cabs were at max). I asked why he didn't set each channel using the input gain and corresponding PFL meter and he said that his way was easier... just saying.