itu

- elements (2 x 10" or 2 x 12") - sensitivity - RMS power handling - weight and shape (has to fit my little car) The rest is details. At the moment I could consider GR Bass' lightweight cabs, but I do not need anything at the moment.

I have a Glockenklang Soul combo which I separated to a head and a cab (2 x 10"). I also have an alusonic cab (2 x 12") which is light and travels with me to gigs. I see no reason not to mix and match.

You are partly right, and it is true China produces lots of dog and cat leather. But there's a difference in the feel. Like with other leather types, too. Yes, I was in contact with the industry quite a few years. If any European or US company was found using dog/cat leather in their products, I would love to follow the media hassle. Korea or China is another story as they do not consider pets as our best friends the same way we do. @Dad3353 The tanning industry was and is still dependent on the meat industry. I repeat: no meat equals no leather. Actually I am far more worried about certain plastics, like fluororubbers which can be really dangerous to the atmosphere and the soil. You need an example: a white watch strap from "an edible thing growing in a tree". I do have lots of examples I wouldn't have wanted to find in my work few years ago. All in all, I suggest everybody to think for a minute before buying anything. If your choice is sustainable and will be long lasting, it probably costs a bit more. But please: think for a moment, save few extra quids, and get a quality product instead of cheap bulk.

Well, there's not a single cow out there for the leather. Leather is simply waste from meat industry. Leather will be available as long as people eat meat. In other words: If you buy leather, it will not add the production of meat, no. But if you eat meat, it will produce more waste - leather - to the market. I do have been talking about this with people who know the industry. (I haven't been eating meat since 80's. But because of cold facts, I have few very good leather straps.)

Now you have to do some work and carve the wood heavily. Then you need to add a top to it and you have a lightweight bass body. Yes, I have similar thoughts in my latest project.

You want to know the phase, you need a multimeter (oscilloscope, whatever) and a screw driver. Connect the pickup to the MM. Drop the screw driver tip to the pickup and see, which way the DC voltage is going. If it starts to rise to positive side, the wiring is in phase (+ is connected to +). Do several drops (an inch or two is enough) to be sure. Repeat with other pickups.

No. I can understand this very well: my choice is Old Growth Fuzz which certainly isn't your choice. But you can connect any external unit before, or after the PX5, or to the loop, and get the crunch you love.

I do agree, that P&G are quality. But the situation is slightly different. No moving parts, just two contacts. Current plug is feasible in its use. It may also be good though that the plug is a fuse, the breaking part. When the bass top breaks because of the good locking contact, instrument builders should make the instrument such that they could withstand the pulling when someone walks to the cable etc. To the original point, I see nothing special in this so called "new" jack. As @Hellzerosuggested, use a stereo jack if in need.

Please explain. I do not see a problem, but you may have some extra knowledge you have to share. I have had no issues using long scale plus strings in any of my basses. Scales range from 33" to 36". I always cut the excess before restringing a bass.

I have an old Digitech MC2, but you could source after something modern. Source Audio, maybe?

Love the rabbit in the upper left corner. Very high end looking studio you have, sir.

Well, the amp has to be enormous. Or the numbers should have been in mm.

I am pleased to hear that the equipment is up and running. If we just had gigs. Four cancellations during last two weeks...

A real upgrade would be a Status neck. www.status-graphite.com/ On-line store - Graphite necks

Battery powered bass may have a high impedance pickup, or two and the preamp is only the tone unit. Even though the pickups may be battery operated (low-impedance, or "active"), the output can be even lower than with their high impedance ("passive") siblings. But it is true that the impedance difference may affect the effects unit behaviour. I found this out with fuzz/OD/dist and compressor pedals.

It is neither easy nor fast. Well, losing money while doing R&D and prototypes is easy and fast. Keep up the good work and you can make it happen.

Well, the parts of the MIM and USA models are built in Mexico, and the USA model has been put together in USA. I am sorry, quality and Fender are not synonyms in my unabridged dictionary. Suhr et al. is another story.

It is probable that your budget leads you to a decent instrument. If you want a light playing bass, put some less to the actual bass and take it to someone who is able to do a good setup. Try light strings, like 40 - 95; I am using SS RW strings in my fretlesses, too. Flats are really flat to my taste, but if you want to play that Motown stuff, they are functional.

I think that the system excludes strings in the process, so you shouldn't be worried. After getting your instrument back you should restring it with a fresh set.

https://thebassgallery.com/products/music-man-stingray-fretless-1979-ex-pino-palladino £5000 https://thebassgallery.com/search?q=palladino