itu

The third pot is feasible only if you use a Bourns 250 k MN and blend the coils with it.

This may be useless too, but this was my impression on... Molded Elacin plugs were pretty comfortable. They were also quite easy to clean. But the frequency response was so bass heavy, that I lost control of all other players. After a couple of years they became useless in other circumstances, too. I could say they were expensive, but the most irritating issue was the response. I am happy with the cheapo Xmas trees if I happen to need them. All in all, a suitable set required some testing. I am happy with those I have now (from that German T-shop) and the money spent to few examples was reasonable.

The ear canal changes continuously through the life of a person. Molded earplugs should be renewed approximately every 5 years. I have those simple Xmas trees, but our band has decided that volume wars are over. It is better to not need any protection. Less is more.

Sure, and it is a real pity we have no chance to meet these players face to face. No more Teams, Mural, Meet, Hangouts, Zoom, Insta, YT, or anything else from any screen! I want to see the real musicians on a physical stage. Me want to go to a gig, too.

Live from the bedroom? True, this seems to be the thing today - no "jitter" or tiny faults. No false notes or rhythmic issues. But I want my live out there in the stages without extreme post processing. Raw, full dialogue between band members. He plays well, no doubt. But I doubt, too, this has very little to do with live. This is a recording in a bedroom studio.

MM and P have the same width, and J is like J. Profile is thicker than Modulus (or Ibanez), but not that round like Steinberger.

To remove wire wool and other metallic debris, use tape! Simple & effective. But I still wouldn't use steel wool anywhere near my basses. It is also possible to remove the metallic dirt by demagnetizing pickups, but...

If this was a real issue, there would be a system that puts the bass electronics to sleep. Just like your phone turns the display off to save energy. A similar system would be possible but needs quite a few components and someone to design it. Not an impossible task at all, but the need seems to be limited (referring to the previous posts). I think a modern solution would be based on an acceleration sensor and a few components around it. This also consumes some energy if the wire was connected. Every microamp counts. And a more complicated system usually equals even more complicated problems. I might not put together some cheapo pots and modern sensors. My choice is still disconnecting the cable.

- international bands: Tina Weymouth, Suzi Quattro, Sting (fretless), Wilbur Bascomb (J. Beck - Wired), Billy Sheehan, many less known studio bassists - rare exports: Pekka Pohjola, Jonas Hellborg, Tom Kennedy - double speciality: Edgar Meyer, Marc Johnson

Switch is a possibility but remember that turning the electronics on usually makes a loud thud. Please include some soft start to it.

Why do I always read "Batman" first? Is this an upgrade of the Washburn Bantam bass? Get me coat...

I think it is time for someone to create the most disgusting ad from all these notes. Waiting to see that it will spread like butter (?) throughout the whole bass playing community. And the ad will be used as a reference to any beaten Fender, or whatever.

Like sisters.

First of all, this is not against you, rather something that I hate from marketing departments. Those numbers are meant to confuse us, players. True to say that the amp has pretty impressive figures but that 1200 W is also slightly irrational. Not all companies use "watts RMS @ 8 ohm" only because that would offer us numbers that we could compare to some extent. Which is the most: 1200 W @ 2 ohm or 500 W RMS @ 8 ohm or 300 W @ 16 ohm in real life context to an 8 ohm cabinet? I will make few simplifications and say that the figures are 300 W, 500 W, and 600 W @ 8 ohm. Remember that all are practically the same volume wise, because the loudness difference is only few decibels. If all given figures are RMS.

1200 W @ 2 ohm = 600 W @ 4 ohm = 300 W @ 8 ohm (but not always) Peak or RMS? I do hate these wattage wars when the specs are represented in incomparable numbers. You tell about the power output, it has to be in RMS @ 8 ohm. And power is not a variable of loudness.

I have never understood the need for a pedal tuner. I want my basses to be stable and one part is to learn the strings and how to set them to the tuning posts. Also bridge, saddle, tuners... I do have few tuners at home like Peterson SAM, and Korg MT-1200. But in my Mono gig bags I carry Ibanez MU40 tuner/metronomes. Small and functional. They do not take any space from the pedal boards...

http://www.status-graphite.com/status/pricelist/Status_Bass_Pricelist.pdf You can take a look at their pages and find different configurations. I understood that Peavey did collaboration with Modulus Graphite with the CF necks. That Bell & Carlson connection is new information to me.

Bass Player had a story of a British bassist whose name I do not recall sorry. But he stated that he changed his bass tuning to cello tuning and it took him only a short time to adjust to it. I made a trial with a 5-string and checked D'Addario's web help and tuned the bass starting from C. After finding the right gauges, the instrument felt like any other bass I have (all others have 40 - 95 / 120).

You want a decent priced CF neck bass, consider buying a used Peavey G-bass, or any bitsa with a Status neck.

Why not, everything else is also cheap in Fenders. That was Leo's intention in the first place: not a through-neck, one simple pickup etc. Relying to a single screw it is possible to save some tin, too. But reliable that connection is not.