itu

It may be, that my poor english is the reason for not understanding the note. I just do not get the term "high impedance" as balanced lines are lo-Z. The balanced signal can be created by a transformer only, or a preamp only, or using a preamp to drive a transformer. All in all, all outputs are lo-Z. Line level unbalanced signals can be quite high in impedance but then the signal is prone to electromagnetic issues. Especially if the line length is long. Lo-Z balanced lines on the other hand can easily handle 100 meters with negligible or no issues.

When you actually meant to say that the Z is low, not high.

Transformer based boxes have their issues, but I think you nailed one very important point here: "amazing sounding". As far as we are getting certain sound from our equipment, the DI-box should not sound at all. It is the thing that should be totally transparent, if any. Another story is if you want to tweak the sound and your box is meant or able to do that. To be fair, this type of unit is closer to a preamp with a suitable lo-Z output than a pure DI-box.

If the pot is very big, like they tend to be, the lowest setting can be from few ohms to few hundred. The accuracy of those low end carbon track pots is not fascinating. As long as you have any passive pots in the circuitry, they act as filters. They cut the highest end of the frequency spectrum. If you bypass any pots in the circuitry (remember that we discuss about a passive, so high impedance circuit), the response will widen. The reason to use big pots is to reduce the effect. A common hi-Z bass has two to four pots in parallel, so the impedance is not 500 k or 250 k but something much lower. Another thing is if your system is lo-Z and the adjustments are made by active circuitry. Then the pots do not affect the response.

I don't think Delta metal is steel. Brass of some kind, maybe?

That greenish colour is simply the most powerful. There are several colours available, but all others than green, and those close to it, are far less luminous. Check RC Tritec's pages and available options (8, I think). I have seen several active colours, too (mostly tritium) and there is the same issue: orange may look nice on paper, but the luminosity is very faint.

Depending on the condition of the Vigier Passion II, the values have been something like £750 - 1900 depending on the condition, the amount of strings, and accessories (like the original hard case). Those few under one grand have been in pretty bad condition: ruined preamps, lacquer and so on. The fabrication was limited and all serials including string amounts and production dates can be found from Vigier's web pages. (Try to find an Arpege with Nautilus system, and you can say that a Passion is one pretty common bass! I have seen only one for sale in Zikinf during internet time. Just like a Neuser Clawhammer/Claudia that I happened to see in one Swedish "basschat" few years ago. Never seen one in real life, but they do exist.)

Michael's decision to retire was discussed here some time ago. A bit of search helps.

I got my hand on a note of something red that got me started. The score is pretty far from the right notes, so I suppose I need to do a transcription of my own. Shaun Ward plays so well, I need to record my own playing and find the nuances to get even close to his accuracy. I know it is an old song, but the groove is timeless.

There are very, very old double basses with 5 strings and frets. @chris_b put it really well: first (succeeded) mass production solid body bass. Mandobass and earlier others were not so successful, and as said, there were several trials before LF. Think about amplifiers, strings, and big bands: the bass needed a few things around to become something else than just a niche instrument.

I read the user manual, which states that some adjustments can be done via USB. It is worth a try. I do admit that it is somewhat peculiar, that bypass is not adjustable with the master, or like some trimmer like others. If the USB does not solve this, the unit behaves somewhat badly. Please do comment after trying that software.

The main issue here is that the signal of the bass is transformed to low impedance. Lo-Z signal suits desks. The level of the signal can be tweaked in the mixer input with an adjustable gain. Easy as that.

The other Wal had a unique top wood. There should be not another with that particular species... there you go: https://www.bassplayer.com/lessons/instant-impression-mick-karn-part-2

...and buy the book. You get lots of stuff to practise...

alusonic has a 2 x 12" which weighs around 18 kg. Aluminium reflex box. Colours can be customized.

This is pure GAS. Two 5 strings, keep the one you love: soundwise, touch etc. Modify the other to a fretless or sell to somebody else. My dream team would be two fours and two fivers. Fretted and fretless ones. I am after a fretless 5 (broad neck, and 35" or 36") that would complete my collection. If someone is interested in your bass, take it as a compliment. That's it.

Not too many, just under 20. One was in Luzern, Switzerland, others within some 30 mile radius from home. Nearly 50 rehearsals.

After toying with several bass and switch trials, I would suggest single/series. Parallel is so close to the single in terms of volume, but it's not as bright, so I tend to jump over it. Did I say useless?

Jimotheezer Jimotheyzer Jimo-the-zer

I was expecting to read about the quarrel of costs between Mr. Fender and Mr. Sadowsky...

Open the cover. Check every cable - there is probably a paint or copper shielding. Any pot lug or bare cable touching the shielding can cause this thumping. If the pot is defect, it may make this thumping, too. Washing with WD40 or similar may help, but this bass is so new that I doubt this would help.

Handmade, 36", lightweight, hi-Z, luminous dots on the side.

Someone here still believes, that a passive unit would not affect the signal and an active would? Please stop writing that nonsense. One reason for using a battery is to avoid ground loops, another is a very low power consumption. Phantom can offer only few milliamperes (mA), so the box can not consume very much either. Mine takes 0.4 mA. My choice is a studio model as it works with every signal. It is a Countryman Type 85. It was not cheap but has been working for some 30 years. Now it seems to be very economical.