itu

https://www.hbs.edu/faculty/Pages/item.aspx?num=56683 I still think, that a bass is not a luxury item, rather a tool. But an interesting point of view to study.

My grandfather was playing an accordion in the 1920's in few bands. That Italian instrument cost yearly wages of a working man. He had to take a loan to acquire it. After he was partially burned in a fire, he had to sell his dear tool. I love to play good instruments. If the price has been somewhat higher, I have saved money for some time. And it is nice that a good electric bass is still pretty cheap compared to our classical sisters' and brothers' tools (don't forget the bow...): https://bishopstrings.com/ https://www.isbworldoffice.com/bass-sell.asp

Thank you sir, but I am in the middle of a negotiation with a skilled luthier.

OK. I play a 5-stringer that has 19 mm string spacing and 35" scale. My next bass is probably a similar fretless. What are my choices? It is not very easy to set a strict budget, if the offering happens to be very limited. 17 mm just does not work for me: I played one since early 90's. And then I found THE neck last year. How about a certain neck profile, that seriously differs from basic p or j? Options available? Shall I start from the price? Yes sure, there has to be some bugdet, but I am not always able to set it unrealistically low. I just want to play necks that suit me ergonomically. The instrument is always a certain type of compromise, but I cannot compromise certain details, because of my hands.

Is the question about money and costs so important? How about the suitability in terms of weight, playability, looks... My instruments have to be reliable. I do prefer lighter weight and functionality. It would be really complicated to compare my dear instruments better or worse just because they cost something.

Well, the first question is, that is the pickup height adjusted up high? Every fraction of an inch means a lot here. Magnetic forces change to the third power vs. distance. If you are able to raise both pickups, the output is changed. Press the strings to the frets at 20th (24th, whatever is the highest) and check the clearance to minimum so, that the strings do not touch the pickups while playing. Trial is easy and the balance between pickups or strings needs just some turns of a (quality) screwdriver.

When the text starts with the word "cheap"... Are you actually after decent parts, or just something that resemble functional alternatives? What might be the difference between "cheap" and decent price? Is there a good word for something which has a reasonable price/performace ratio?

Any idea to buy a set of humbuckers with 4 wires in each?

I see two ways, and how they differ: - drive the effects and then compress the result - compress your bass output and process it Both have pros and cons and I would test both ways. The second option can be a bit like a limiter: the comp sets the max output (depending on the ratio), no matter how hard you hit. It is up to you to make the choice. Very much depends on the settings of the comp and the other effects. Playing style has its effect, especially in the first option.

Eminence beta 12 seems to be available in 4, 8, and 16 ohms, if a Pro version suits your needs.

T. B. Schmit, L. Claypool, F. Saunders, Kate Davis...

It is possible to machine wash strings, or wash or boil them. Fairy, alcohol... ultrasonic, anyone? Longer shelf time gives a slightly longer use, but they still become dull pretty fast. Because the frets eat some of the string surface, the result is not very good. My choice has been a new set. I buy 5 to 10 sets at the time. Then I am able to discuss about the price in a local shop. Far better results than trying to wash them.

That was very functional! By the way, Natalie can not be single, can she?

I do admit that I have been watching after one red BB. As my fretted 5 has 19, I just want similar.

If the area is tiny, a quick-n-dirty way to repair it is to use some nail lacquer. Colour choice is up to you.

I wish I had, that is probably next on my list. But with 19 mm spacing. Nothing else matters.

You need a multiscale, so buy a harp or a grand piano (Steinway is 274 cm). The reason for different gauge strings is the equal scale length. But to find the string that works with the scale length is another story.

Cut half of the longitudal (?) thread away from the nut and the screw and you can lock the pickups with just a half turn of the screw. Like the locks in cannons. See "stepped thread", "breech screw" etc.

Oh dear, I thought there's only need for a 5-string fretless, but that's a semiacoustic 8-string Rickenbacker! Kool!

I would be more worried about the equipment that was left in the car and someone decides to make a "loan". When the cab is brought inside to warm temperature, the cold parts get a cover of moisture. Slow warming up prevents this to happen. So take it easy and there's no need to worry.

Yes, 1 is the ground. Check that the shield is not connected to 1. 2 = hot, 3 = cold.

Tears for fears - Everybody wants to rule the world https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aGCdLKXNF3w One rhythm, no unnecessary fills.

OK, I have to be more accurate: Bass output (high or low impedance signal) - hi-Z input of the DI box and balanced lo-Z output - balanced lo-Z signal - balanced hi-Z input of the mixer. So here we have two types of impedances: the equipment inputs (preferably high) + outputs (preferably low) AND the signal. The difference is a bit like we would be discussing about the right size plugs + jacks AND the cable types that fit to the hardware mentioned.