itu

This 4 wire option brings you single / parallel / series. Even the choice of one or another single coil. I do suggest that you buy a push/pull pot (tone or volume) and try series/parallel or series/single. No extra holes, just some tinkering. Series, when the pot is pushed down and parallel pulled up. All options are there, yes, but useful are just two of them. Been there, seen that.

Please take a look at this book's Contents (preview): https://www.amazon.com/Bass-Line-Encyclopedia-National-Workshop/dp/0739069853 If you think that there's a reason the mentioned bassists were taken to this book, I think you can check them, too. By the way, the price is good.

In the old days I would have suggested to use both outputs. Now your DG has Speakons and the disconnection does not seem possible like with those quarter inch plugs.

This sounds like your instruments are reliable and the quality is high. You can tell this to us, it should be fine to get this information out, too. It is understandable that the sound and the feel are the first, but who wouldn't want to invest on quality stuff? How many years have you had (=played) your Olintos?

I understand your point of view very well. But I also see other feasible opinions, like @acidbass said: "I wouldn't expect anything less than perfection when spending that sort of money." OK, it is true, electric instruments are still on the cheap side. Take any classical instrument, and...: https://uptonbass.com/shop/arnold-schnitzer-double-bass-2020-opus-50/ Still a simple log with few strings can be built with high standards. I like the quality of Ibanez, because their neck pockets are tight and fret ends filed. Yes, from under £500. My fretless is made by a local luthier and his work is impeccable. My main fretted basses are a Vigier and a Modulus. Vigier = quality. Modulus is a bit americain construction wise, but its functionality and playability gets top marks. And pickups are in the middle, although the neck pocket could be even tighter... Yes, playability and sound are the thing. I do expect that my instruments are also reliable which I connect to quality. If the luthier sees, that fitting parts is not an important thing, fine. But for some extra money I want some extra quality. Disclaimer: I do not have had a chance to play an Olinto. If these previous comments are about actual instruments' quality and build, I would be concerned a bit, too. If there is some shouting without actual knowledge here, please enjoy your instrument and use applicable filter to the comments above.

Have to ask, why is this of interest?

Please go ahead. I strung my white Ashula with 5 strings (modded a bit...) and the tuning started from C. Worked pretty well, but the change from fretted to fretless was so distinctive, I rebuilt it with original parts and sold it. If the fretboard was like in the 80's half-fretted Ibanez Alphonso Johnson, I would have kept it.

There was a yellow Basslab in Reverb few hours ago. 4-string, did I say yellow?

Lovely! 1980 something? How are there fretlines?

I had the newer keyboard version, but sold it and now have this and a tce 1140 in a rack. Tri-bass drives those two. Fun unit.

A player colleague has a functional Electraglide. Who might be interested in this kind of a speciality? Where should it be sold? Reverb?

At Alembic forum Jimmy Johnson was discussing about pickup positioning, but I am not able to find it now. Someone may remember and find the thread?

The project is really nice, love it! Even stainless (A4, AISI 316/L) is magnetic, although not as much as plain steel (up to A2, AISI 304 and similar). If you want no issues with the screws, I would recommend brass (or Al, or Ti...).

Because of the quarantine and Thomann (and alike), the Denmark street will probably be look like this: "http://www.denmark-street.com" There you can order a Fender P and a Fender Jazz and maybe can stream some mainstream pop, until it dies after few years.

There's an old book that I really like. Starts from basics and goes up high. You may find it in pdf format but the actual book contains many of the exercises played by him on CD. It may be no wonder that many players have put some to the youtube. Tony Oppenheim - Slap it!

Wasn't Squier the string brand when CLF did the P?

Practically every pickup can be driven through a preamp or by themselves. EMG is a good exception of this rule (except their HZ series!). Many preamps are 0 dB amps, so the signal is the same with or without the pre when eq is set flat. But if you crank the eq, you naturally get more output. Remember: the gain of your amp is your friend. A preamp costs £20 - £300. I do not think that the assembling will cost a fortune. After all it is pretty staightforward: few wires, pots, some screwing or tinning, batteries in and the system is ready.

Top of the line: John East. With full active mixer and all. Nearly everything else is practically less with passive mixing and volume. Yes JE costs quite some but if the instrument fits you like a glove, the preamp is after all reasonably priced. 1 to 2 effects boxes cost the same or even more. Another road is to reduce most moving parts under the hood and do the adjustments from the amp or a floorboard. That is somewhat tricky but doable. Yes, I have done that. Preamps are not automatically flat just like the amps tend to have sound of their own. If your current preamp is not working well flat, try to tweak the adjustments from end to another. You may find something reasonable. You can also adjust the pickups closer or further away from the strings to tweak the sound. Try to keep notes about what you have done, so you can get back when in need.

I put a Mixpot to my Modulus Quantum and the change was substantial. If I want to change a two pickup bass somehow, active mixing is the thing. Eq is nice to have but mixing (and a low pass filter) seems to be my road to happiness.

Me too. I have done some experiments on a metal thread in a wood. If the thread is big in diameter, or long enough, metal type works surprisingly well. Thread insert is naturally a good step towards the big diameter thread. Your method of two thread inserts is nice. I would put a big washer in between because it stops the insert flush. Yes, I know, my hands are less trained, and I think the Wal neck is curved at that particular place. The owner of the Wal will be happy. Keep up the excellent work.

The Bourns blend pot (type MN) has half tracks. In the middle both pickups are full on. Active mixers do not necessarily need special pots as the pots are not directly in the signal route.