itu

A Harley Benton / GLX noise gate which has attack and decay: NG100.

Our mileage vary. Just wait and see.

If money and weight are not an object, Mesa 400+. If one or another is, Zvex/Hotone nano amp. There are many small tube amps with power up to 30 W, even kits, that you can try. I might opt for rental, like @Happy Jack said. Surely the cheapest option.

Agree, and there are two cats in my household.

That red one, Ringo/Nyango Star is very famous in Japan. http://nyangostar.jp/ https://pop-japan.com/music/babymetal-akatsuki-drum-cover-by-nyango-star/ https://knowyourmeme.com/memes/nyango-star

I had lots of issues with compressors and fuzzes. Then a friend of mine - a maker of fuzzes and overdrives - told me to try the units with a hi-Z (passive) and a lo-Z (active) basses. Yes, that was it! Now I have rigs for hi-Z, and lo-Z instruments. Like @Bill Fitzmaurice said, a thorough test drive is in order.

B = linear, and 104 = 10 x 10^4 ohm = 100 kohm. 1849 has to be the manufacturer's code, but may indicate time like: year 18, week 49. Looks a lot like Alps, or Bourns, but it could be Alpha: http://www.taiwanalpha.com/downloads?target=products&id=113 A guess of the type: RD901F-40E1-15K-B100K-00D "single - bushing type - Knurled shaft - linear 100 kohm - with bracket" I may be totally wrong, but this type could get you close. Like here is the shaft: https://www.mouser.co.uk/ProductDetail/Alpha-Taiwan/RD901F-20-15F-B100K-00L1?qs=1mbolxNpo8cn%2BUYXjDefCw%3D%3D ...and here is the bracket: https://www.mouser.co.uk/ProductDetail/Alpha-Taiwan/RD901F-40-15K-B100K-00DL1?qs=1mbolxNpo8eYt7%2B5UsjE2Q%3D%3D

OK, my bad, Alembic is in a class of its own. Their electronics are interesting from many points of view. And no, volume adjustments do not affect frequency response. As I said earlier, I forget some brands and Alembic is pretty rare beast. But also an absolute top of the line. If I ever have the chance, I want one.

The signal path of a bass is simple: pickups - blend (or another vol) - vol - tone - output Usually an active (lo-Z) bass has active tone circuitry and everything else is passive (hi-Z). When the signal comes out from the pickup, it meets the blend which is just a simple pot = high impedance = passive. This kind of blend affects the sound more or less at every pot position. This is the same with the next adjustment in line, the volume. So called active basses have active tone tweaking circuitry (B, M, T, etc.) driven by a battery. There the pots are not in the direct signal path and thus do not affect sound. As I said, there are few systems where even the blend is low impedance = real mixer. Those do not load the pickups and the frequency spectrum stays the same. It should be noted that the passive mixing can be seen as a benefit, too. Some like the change in sound, or do not care about those subtleties. But they are there and if you want to mix the pickups, your choices are limited to few manufacturers. No, nothing like Sadowsky, nor Artec, but those few I mentioned in my previous post, and maybe some others that I have not seen or just forgotten.

This is also slightly complicated. There were linear tape recorder trials where the tape speed was 76 cm/s and even higher. Bass response started to suffer. Yes, really. Mechanics were complicated and required service. Another story is the rotary head system, like DAT. But higher speed is not the answer automatically. Tape width helps with SNR. Optimal record player could be the Japanese www.elpj.com but the price...

As most of the "active" electronics have passive blend and volume right after the pickups, I have found three manufacturers whose signal chain is completely active: Audere, EMG (some systems), and John East. Noll has Mixpot, so their signal chain can also be fully active, or rather lo-Z. In other words, passive pickups work like buffered actives in these few systems.

Most of the basses have hi-Z (passive) volume control, and turning it down cuts some highs. Turning down the volume also lowers the signal level and increases noise. I do not see many benefits of volume control overall except the scenario OP described. I could manage with an ON-OFF switch or even without it. @KiOgon has built a rotary switch with four positions: OFF - tone 1 - tone 2 - ON. That is something I could suggest to any bass.

Yes, @KiOgon has done this type of switch. Please ask him.

Yes, I do. I still think that an american company has sold quite well in the area. As an example, I have seen many Mo'bass heads there for a decent price. They are rare here in Europe, and prices are high, too. Steve W. Rabe has had many other interesting units like Interstellar overdrive, MiniMo, and biamp bass heads.

Glockenklang Soul, 450 W, 2 x 10". 38 kg = 84 lbs! SWR has many nice sets and I suppose they are available in Canada. I might look for a head and a cab, as a similar combo is heavy! If 2 x 10" sounds good, a 2 x 12" would also be an option. Cone area is bigger than in a single 15" but not as big as a 4 x 10". Moves air. Soundwise I like a bigger box of a double speaker than like 2 x (1 x 12").

I had issues with my Modulus (35"). I have written about this earlier. I thought the solution to mud was to put thicker string, but found out that .120 was the best sounding B in that particular instrument. Be open and do trials.

TonePrint editor has lots of stuff but they are slightly hidden to the top. The texts are just faint. The phone version cannot be easier or more clear.

I have no issue playing any of my basses, no matter where. It has nothing to do with the price. Why is a gig different from any other playing situation? My cats - or them others living in my house - could drop a bass from the sofa, the neck could be warped, if the instruments are in the direct sunlight... meteorites, fire, what else?

I use a computer to adjust parametres. There are so many it is far easier to have a big screen standing still in front of me. Today I uploaded a new SW version to the board and the newest TonePrint. I put four delays and the harmonizer (octaver) to the board (DD - H - DD, no chance to put DDDDD). Tomorrow is the time to play and tweak.

How about bypassing electronics completely? A simple DPDT switch and 1 MOhm resistor to reduce any clicks. The bass becomes a hi-Z unit and should affect the sound somewhat. If your rig contains lots of effects, do a test without them, too.

Dear bro, do you use a tonecable made of tonecopper - or was it coppertone?