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If money is not an object, Modulus RevOlite, Sadowsky is also a good option. A local luthier is third and probably the best option if you have a good view of what you really want.

Modulus Graphite Quantum.

Don't want to remember the company, but the song:

I think - but not sure any more - that Hamer's 12-string basses were available as eeE aaA ddD ggG as well as Eee Aaa Ddd Ggg models. The other was for plec players and the other... you know. By the way, @Basvarken has built one fine instrument, thanks for the video and the pictures!

It is OK to buy ready made cables. Good connectors can be soldered several times. If the material in between is not overly hard or thick, would it be possible to use some tool there?

Well, if you know that audio signals are tiny and cables are usually treated badly, any issue in connection will be heard. Is there any reason not to buy ready made cables? They are not expensive at all. Try Sommer at www.thomann.de

Neutrik is good, but solderless + audio + musician = trouble. Learn to... consult a friend of yours.

I am using the double mono (not stereo?) when I have to carry a fretted and a fretless to a rehearsal or a gig. Not light, but doable.

alusonic 2 x 12" weighs 18 kg. Single 12" naturally even lighter. Carbon fibre cabs from https://www.grbass.com/ are light but their pages seem to be under an update.

In the playability (nuances etc.) or the sound? I may be talking about two different things in one sentence here.

Let's put it this way: if you are good enough, you can use mandolin frets. They are not that easy or comfortable to play. If you or he thinks the fret width is the key to a far better sound, please go ahead. This is like flatwounds are the ultimate, because James J. used them. You probably get my point, do you?

Zappa, XTC, X-men or X-files theme... something xylophonic, or simply xylitol... ZZTop and Pia Zadora may be too easy listening.

The original Precision's name was referring to the frets, not anything else. Actual construction was meant to be cheap. Nothing bad in it, P is used a lot and could be compared to a hammer. Functional and robust.

String spacing may be an issue, it was for me.

It is not so complicated to make a silent room. Friend of mine built a very nice music room, but nearly killed himself because there was no functional ventilation. Build a labyrinth to the vent. There should be lots of ideas in the net: https://cundallconversations.com/2015/02/20/cold-air-mining/ I would change it so, that the "input" is between the second and third red arrow in the back and the "output" is before the last blue arrow in the front. Then it is easier to build into a wall as a thin but wide construction element. Every inner part is covered with wool which does not contain glass!

There seems to be some evil force that tries to turn this fruitful discussion from tonewoods to tastewoods. But hey, I feel wood!

Please open up your thoughts, this gets interesting.

Very much so. Turn the pots for some time to get the best results. But do not keep the pot axles downwards if you do not want less friction. The contact cleaner can dissolve the axle grease.

If you change from carbon track to carbon track, there should be no difference. I suppose JE is using - probably, I am not 100 % sure - cermet or conductive plastic pots. They produce less noise. Is there something in the East's signal path to make the sound slightly "better"? Anything affecting loudness curve or similar?

Most of the metals have very little effect on the field, if the cover is thin. There are very few materials that change the magnetic field a lot like mu-metal and soft (annealed) iron. But they are pretty rare, too. Of course thickness plays a role, because it starts to affect the distance after certain point. You probably would not do a cover that's 10 mm thick.

Is every piece of equipment in the same phase (230 VAC)? Sure a cold solder joint is possible, although they can be complicated to find. How about loose cables, screws or broken PCBAs?

I have an old double coil Q-tuner in my no-adjustments-plain-output bass and it works well. I would not say it is like piezo. An ordinary pickup with limited top end. It looks good and I like the sound very much but magic it is not.

By the way, older rechargeable NiMH battery capacity is only around 200 mAh, and a modern LiPo battery may have up to 600 mAh.

And what is the bass and the preamp? An ordinary 9 V battery capacity is around 500 mAh. A typical preamp consumes 0.3 - 1 mA. This gives 500 - 1500 hours of use. If the cable is constantly connected to your bass, the battery will be dead within 20 - 60 days. Let's make an educated guess: You play 3 hours every day. The battery will last 150 - 500 days i.e. 5 - 16 months. Does not sound very expensive, does it? Please disconnect the cable after playing.

That Kazimir looks like Batman's hit. It only lacks the text WHACK!