itu

Bourns makes MN pots in 250 k and 500 k. https://www.mouser.co.uk/ProductDetail/Bourns/PDB182-GTRB2-254MN?qs=MAZTpT1IVl9lP%2FZA5KktUg%3D%3D

Alpine is as french as my Vigier Passion. Another option could be a Renault 5 Turbo. Small, special, and light. Modulus Genesis could be Vette: both have fiber construction. Affirma is different, so is boxer Subaru and Wankel Mazda (RX-family). Hand built super light fretless... be it a Super Seven. Every bitsa is like any DIY glass fibre replica. But not a Ford Fiasco, no? Clevinger... a ten wheel Peterbilt without a trailer, maybe?

The picture tells something I particularly hate: no soldered earth to the jack. Cheapo. I would never rely on the plate ground only.

https://eepower.com/resistor-guide/resistor-types/potentiometer-taper/ Here A should mean Audio i.e. logarithmic. Are the electronics modded or changed in any way (picture, please)?

After the quarantine happened, I saw here and there that cheapo basic basses (Fender, Squier, Tokai, Warwick...) started a slow but steady rise in price. I was a bit amazed that those simple workhorses got so much interest. But on the other hand high end instruments started to show up with very attractive prices. I was very close to sell my kidneys for a custom Overwater that was under £1 k! The price range seemed to become compressed: cheapo ones raised their price and vice versa. After the vaccination started there is less low priced high end gear, but it is possible to do a good deal every now and then. I do an educated guess that many professionals sold their gear just because the state did not help them. Hopefully people did not have to sell their last tools to keep themselves alive and well.

I see here a functional travel bass. I know the neck profile isn't for me, but a similar bass could travel with me to the cottage or even some work trips. I will acquire or build something similar in the future, serious full scale, and small.

I think they were Aussies, Björn Again was an ABBA tribute.

No, these are not mine, and I have no idea who is this builder. The units just look different and interesting. https://metsn.tumblr.com/post/652279198486052864/anaphylaxis-filter-a-multi-mode-filter-with

There are songs I remember by heart, but if I am asked to play a song, I have no idea of the key, or the beginning. I downright love my tablet with thousands of songs. I do read, and that has helped a lot.

Well, there was NSU Ro80, and that motorbike... Hercules, but it is true that Japanese made it happen. By the way, it was very close that Suzuki did not go bankrupt because of wankel. http://www.suzukicycles.org/RE5/index.html?RE5-Rotary.shtml

Youtube is filled with videos. Learning takes some time. Main points: - it's hot, do not burn the table or thigh or your house - a small iron is good for small work, and a big one good for pot cases and so on, something like 20 - 30 watts could be a universal unit - plain iron is already functional, but soldering stations are not that expensive (check Hakko, Weller, and compare them to a Metcal) - lead-free tins are a chore compared to the older tin, so take your time, train with plain wires - the smoke is mostly resin, if you don't have a fan, go beside a window - clean the tip regularly (wet paper is always at hand) - the tin has to have flux which cleans the surface - twist the wire so it is easier to keep in shape, and pre-tin it first before tinning it to a pre-tinned lug - last but not least, it is hot, do not ever leave the iron unattended!

That's surprisingly good. Some tiny timing issues later on, do you get slightly tired of the repeats? Do not worry about it, just a tiny detail. Try the same standing without eyeglasses just for another take. You do not have to share that version, but try to analyze what was different to this one. Do you get different visualisation or feel if you think you are on stage with the band? Does it have any effect to your playing feel? My playing at the rehearsals is often slightly sloppy, I tend to overplay. On stage I have to be playing for the song, and I can dive deeper to the feeling. This usually makes me play better, and less.

Few notes: The Spruce effects fuzz is in the IE Divaricator (X-over, set to 400 Hz) loop. The plain box is the Vong (https://schalltechnik04.de/de/anleitungen/vong-filterung ) and acts as a filter and a HPF. HB Noise gate is for swell effects. Both attack and decay can be adjusted.

Please no, although I would love to. The right amount of basses is +1. To be honest, I just tried to tell to my fellow chatters that a pure custom is not a simple or easy task. And that a seasoned luthier is one very important help in the process. I will follow this super interesting topic.

Everybody there is in the same place as you will be. Take it easy, the jury really sees your talent even if you would mess with something. So don't worry, but concentrate. Like Tom Waits sings here: "I know I can do it. I'm in total control."

This is not an easy task if your customer hasn't been thinking of the details at all. I had similar possibility with a local luthier few years ago. He was good enough to interpret my thoughts to shapes and ideas. It took over two months, numerous WA messages and phone calls before he was able to start. Slow speed was very helpful. We had time to consider the ideas and changed quite a few details during the design phase. 36", light weight (under 7 lbs.), small body, birch, walnut, blackwood, oil, a hi-Z humbucker, a step attenuator and a coil switch. Square neck, plays like a dream.

The top one is for lo-Z (active) basses and the other for hi-Z. The Tick dictates the size. Plates are simple perforated aluminium.

Reflex, if you can find one. The production has ended. https://www.sourceaudio.net/reflex-expression-controller.html

Dropping the load is fatal to the output transformer and it can melt. That is more expensive and complicated to replace than valves. Wish you luck with the unit.

Modulus Graphite user manual: "Chechen fingerboards may benefit from an application of gunstock oil or similar light oil, generally during winter months when humidity is low. Test the Chechen fingerboard by dropping one drop of water onto the board to see how long it takes to soak in. If the drop of water takes less than 10-20 seconds to disappear, the board needs a light coat of oil. Use a clean cloth slightly moistened with the oil. Gently and evenly rub it into the wood fingerboard. Allow the oil to soak in for a minute, and then wipe off the excess."

Are all valves in place? Anything loose? Cables checked? I do not rely on any component, if this kind of issue was found. Put the first cab back. Turn the amp on. Take a pencil or similar wooden stick and knock all valves through. Any funny noise or change in the behaviour, and you have probably found the place of the fault.