itu

If there were ready soldered wires, they should be OK. Cold means that the tin may have not made a decent contact between the two. This occurs often if the materials move while the tin is cooling down. Any TRS is fine. Just make sure you solder all wires accordingly. Put the plug into the jack and you can see right away the right order. The ring (SW) and sleeve (GND) will make the contact. TIP is the output.

Have you pushed the element by hand? Does it make any extra noise while you move it? Any leaks that are not designed to be there, can be seen like a vacuum cleaner with a perforated tube. The leaks should not exist.

That green one looks very good even without the electronics. How much is your circuitry consuming energy? Volts and milliamps? Could I put it inside a bass with a battery?

First of all, you seem to have a mono jack in the system. This means continuous drain from the battery. Not good. TRS = tip, ring, sleeve. The main-PCBA has two contacts, where you have green and white wires. The white one seems to be OUT. This is NOT to be connected to the SW (green wire). Green should be in the ring in the output jack. OUT should be tinned to the tip. This SW and GND produce the connection from the battery. According to the pics, the black and red battery wires in the PCBA may be wrong way. Red may be the +. Please check it. I would check the solderings from the blend. The green wire may be a tad cold. From the looks of the pads, I think you are using lead-free, which is more complicated to use than the older 37-63. So go through all contacts you have made. And fix the white-green cable mix in the first phase.

"Upgraded" or "With options" It should simply say: "modified". "Vintage" should be "80's".

Please start with a picture of the stuff you have created so far. Text is so limited here.

I am very much aware of this. At the same time when we mix cabs and amps, the end result (loudness) can be calculated only from the system, not from the individual parts. Smaller wattage, but better sensitivity may be louder, than lots of watts and low sensitivity. And then the flatness of the response, and lowest reproducible f, and so on. (But you, too, know all this.)

I accidentally heard about Norwegian mains which is not very stable. This may be one reason you have issues.

In case you want to go the hard way (i.e. not the @KiOgon way), the pot type for pan is Bourns MN 250k (or the 500k) version.

The popular: Free - Mr. Big Paco de Lucia - Alta mar (from One summer night) The bit less known: Jeff Berlin, Pekka Pohjola, Niels-Henning Ørsted-Pedersen, and Edgar Meyer have many very interesting solos.

Black or brown is Live, blue is Neutral, and yellow/green is earth. Check that earth is connected to earth. Do not ever mix yellow/green with any other wire. The two others do not matter, although Live in the wall should be on the right side, and Neutral on the left.

Thank you, Sir Dial N, the pics made me think of an idea I need to try out.

@Stub Mandrel writes stuff that should be founded easily from some place here. Likewise we already have detailed IEM handbook by @EBS_freak Do you all think there should be a place here with writings of the basic things we are asked on a monthly basis?

Didn't Springsteen's bassist have a fretless Longhorn?

...mini, and the four knob Hyper Gravity...

In case you need any thoughts about separate comps: www.ovnilab.com/

Is there an old Neutrik Silent Plug involved? There were few issues with them in the early days. Other than that the cable may be lost because of misuse (speaker cable), or too much and hard bending.

Ear is not so sensitive to the distortion in the low frequency area. This way the tube compression makes the unit seem (hearm?) louder, although the "more" is produced in the area of distorted output. The same amount of distortion in a solid state amp sounds worse because of the harmonics that are different. They just sound bad. You can find lots of info about this with a little bit of searching. Remember: Watt is not the same as loudness (expressed in decibels, dB), although they are faintly connected.

Definitely not. It is not so uncommon that headphone amps have some intentional tone colouring. Line out is by definition very honest to the source.

Phones is an output with powerful enough amp to drive headphones. Line output is designed to drive an amp input, and its level may be adjustable, or not. It has not power to drive headphones. Maybe you will hear something but the level is really low. You would need an extra amp between the unit and the headphones.

So you could buy 12 Countrymans (Type 85) for the price of one Behringer! (The right price is £18.30)

Contact tce. When I have had issues (only few), I have received very good, if not excellent, customer service from the manufacturers.

HG mini has three knobs instead of one, and has been the other HG I have. After finding Spectra presets from some German page, I have used those presets as a base to my slightly tweaked settings.

I, too, have had a few instruments. The band I am playing the most (and have been since 1990's) has seen fours, fives, and fretlesses. Even two double basses. Last three, four years I have been thinking that I have found my sound. Well, a month ago we decided to play standards. I suggested that I could play few songs with my old EUB. Now they just want THAT, and asked me to leave my electric bass at home: "That's The Sound." OK, fine, I think it is about playing style and certainly the sound is different. I am still a bit unsure whether I can play all the stuff only with upright (from Motown to RATM), but at least my bandmates have found "my sound".