itu

Most of our senses are measured, and approximated from very big amounts of data through standardized tests. True, we do sense things in slightly different ways depending on an individual. As an example we bassists can hear certain details from the low end that others think is insignificant. In general people's senses act in a tested way. On average we should hear from 20 Hz to 20 kHz, although some can hear down to 16 Hz or up to 37 kHz, and others far less. Statistically 20 - 20k is still valid response for a young and healthy ear. This is not only subjective, but a tested fact. I will not go to learning and other finesses, one part of our hearing is psychoacoustics. It also covers excessive amount of research and background data which is not feasible to represent here. Everything is not simply subjective, although the larger picture sure can contain some subjective parts. This will be the situation as long as we are not able to represent our experiences with agreed and common terms thoroughly. "Suitable" could still be a better term than "the best", even with some very subjective stuff. After all, most of our wants may include lots of foggy compromises: "What's the best cheap bass?" What? Say, how much is your cheap and I may be able to find something for you.

Didn't I say: "Understanding the facts..."? Personal preferences sure play a big part of our sounds. Tweaking is for us players: I love effects, I need my lo-fi speaker, and how about my playing style? (I HATE most of the verbal comments on sound like "vintage" which does not mean anything. Is there a single vintage sound from the bass, the cable, the amp, or some system? We lack many tests and qualifications that could help us in comparing sounds and detailing finesses.) We still do have different stuff available that can be measured at least to some extent. Like cables. And we should understand the results. "The best" here is probably somewhat bad qualification just like the previous "vintage", so I will suggest to use the word "suitable".

In audio there are lots of tests. Many test settings are after the best. Sure they do measure difference between competitors. PA systems (covering bass systems, too) are often after something else than superior quality and flat response audio. One of these is loudness. There are still same tests available for the components of PA systems. Quality cable does not color sound. But if you want to get a deteriorated sound, no one is on your way. Understanding the facts which affect colouring then help a lot.

IE Xerograph (also the deluxe model) OnkartGromt Funky Fellow Subdecay Proteus

It was discussed years ago that a vintage fender was put to three parts: neck, body, and electronics. Then they were married with some newer parts: voila, three vintage fenders! People are more aware of this. A numbers matching instrument is more valuable than a bitsa nowadays. (If someone is interested in fenders is another story.)

Light weight parts, top loading bridges, light SS RW strings, Status necks... bartolini & Delano pickups, yes.

Talking about cable cooker? Yes, even their pages are lots of fun!

There was a guy writing to a newspaper: "...after listening to this band, NHØP is probably an acronym of two persons."

And I was thinking about the feel! How simple from me.

True, yes! I have played with X-overs in my effect boards for a few years (IE, KMA). Parallel is (too) common, and I did go away from that after trying to manage with comb filtering and yes, phase issues. X-overs have opened a new way of using effects.

If there is space, you might be able to wire the pot to the board. But only if there's space.

Try this: http://web.daddario.com/StringTensionPro/ Take a look at the string tension and vary thickness. You may be using another brand, but this should give you a ballpark. This is slightly older but is a good paper to have at hand: https://www.daddario.com/globalassets/pdfs/accessories/tension_chart_13934.pdf

I do partly agree. 1) Out-of-phase is one really serious issue when two signals are in the same frequency band (like signal + effected signal). 2) It is not that bad when they are separated (like bi-amp or X-over). This issue exists but it does not have to be so crucial. If you hear it, you have to act. If not, let it be. A system that can measure phasing is rare. I have used them earlier in my work (broadcasting company), but not with a bass system. I can only rely on my ears. Or I could use my two channel 'scope.

I have done some trials with several delays (through headphones only). No, it does not sound like a double bass but it really sounds different. I have tried short delays (1 - 6 ms = 30 - 180 cm) and mixed them with different feedbacks and levels. Tests continue...

True. I did not find that the most crucial thing when setting up my equipment. I still do not. But the effects do sing!

You want two channels, not bi-amp? Keep the low end intact and put effects to the high side. This is a tried and true option. Two sets of amps and cabs equals good abs, I certainly would opt for a bi-amp system. You talk to a cab builder (barefaced etc.) and you could have everything in a single box. I am using IE Divaricator in my FX board to mix fuzz to the high side. This is kind of cheapish solution compared to a true bi-amp system but seems to work very well.

The first picture: a three way X-over. 2nd: relays. 3rd: a woofer X-over (LPF, or rather a hi-cut) 4th & 5th: a power transformer. edit: Sorry, my small phone missed the 3rd picture.

A good quality cables do not have to cost much. I do like Neutrik connectors, especially if they are for hard use. Hard use equals the way bassists use them. Likewise I prefer silicone cables. I do build my own and the first has been in use since late 80's or early 90's. For pedal board the angled plugs can be less robust, because they do not move. Short cables can have pretty high capacitance, but longer lines (+3 m) should be low capacitance if the high end response should be preserved. By the way, do you already have this: https://www.thecablecooker.com/

I do have to say that I like that floor and how it looks!

IE Divaricator (not an effect per se, but has revolutionized my use of effects) tce SCF FI OnkartGromt Funky Fellow

Usually the strips are separate, as you may want to chain them and use a suitable power supply. Practically any 12 V supply is functional. @bertbass has a good point, probably most households have few spares.

https://www.mouser.co.uk/ProductDetail/Inspired-LED/12V-NB-GR-01M?qs=YCa%2FAAYMW01qkTpyKP021w%3D%3D Something like this? 12 volts.

What kind of power supply are you considering? LEDs can be bought in stripes which you can tape to the grille. If you think the tape is too weak (especially in the long run), some extra adhesive is in order. They consume quite little, so a rechargeable battery or some small power supply could do the powering. You want colours? Consider remote controlled RGB stripes. Mouser etc.