itu

For 2k you can buy all three (3) you want in this phase: 1st is the one that looks good and others say it's a great first instrument. 2nd is the one you think you need. 3rd is the one that includes all of your preferred details that make you play it a lot. Joke aside, go to a store and forget price tags, brands, and anything else. Sit down, play as many as possible, and you probably end up with something that fits you. Bassists are more liberal in fancy electronics, or brands (although some surely will tell you that P or J is the one and only, works everywhere and for everyone. And it has to be a Fender from certain period etc.). Find the body that feels good against you, and the neck that is comfortable in your hands. Try strings: Lighter set might be my suggestion along with a pro setup.

Burner has meant bolt-on.

1) HPF is the first (or maybe after envelope filter/oct/synth) unit in the signal chain. It reduces handling noise. 2) HPF is the last in line. All handling noise goes through the FX. The sounds octavers and synths have created on top of that will be effectively cleaned from the power hungry freq bands. 3) Two HPFs: no matter what you have in your signal chain, the input gets meaningful signal, and output should push amp a tight sound. I think that all possibilities are feasible, as long as we bassists understand the functionality of the HPF.

How about a pro setup and a new set of strings? Then you could feel the possibilities of the wood. An upgrade to new electronics, or even a bass would be more tangible.

Have you been thinking about transportation? If you want to put the amp to a case, is the ventilation still functional and valid? My Glockenklang has good fans, but when I put it to a 2U case, I needed to use every millimeter to enable ventilation to reach even adequate level. I used several spacers. Now the fans aren't screaming at high speed all the time. If you want to make an uneducated trial, you could try to use smoke to see, how the air is circulating. I know it may be more or less an experiment. But if there are dead corners somewhere, you may be able to see them. Use PC or any other clear plastics on top of the unit.

I have the single and the dual cases. Both are in active use. The single is older, because there's no rings for the Tick. I have walked with both, and quite some. When I go to the rehearsals or sometimes to gigs by bus, mono is far better than a hard case. Good, comfortable handle, wide straps. Space for tools, tab, and cables. A functional solution. It is true, as was mentioned earlier, that the dual case is heavy with two heavyweight basses. Mine are on a light side: a fretless and a five string is doable.

Didn't the Incognito bassist sell his some time ago? Or has it been his earlier, I do not recall. Edit: I meant Randy Hope-Taylor.

Are all your units in the same wall wart? You could consider cutting the shield, if you use balanced cables.

It's easy to leave them there but under the hood everything is overridden/bypassed. Another way is to remove and save current electronics and install a new set. Like Vol.

MM4, tinted red... satin or glossy back? My guess is glossy. How about front markers?

Lines can be added later, if in need. Side markers are what you certainly need. If you play gigs, phosphorous markers are important in a dark stage.

It's not volts, it's not amps, but beware of watter! ...and getting my coat.

Thanks @nilorius. OK, these two players are my favourites from the 80's when I started to learn bassics:

I have to say that the bassists mentioned are all top players. I am trying to find a name that would fill the bill, but there are so many that are serious session players without flashy solos... My choice is those not heard or seen, but doing their best to make any song groove. I know, the list is endless.

I see lots of suggestions. One basic idea to find a suitable bass for you is to go to a shop, and play different instruments. Rely on your feel, not the brands.

After buying the truss rod, use a quality grease to the threads. It is easy to oil it before the installation. The truss rod has to be adjusted somehow. Are the neck, the parts and the truss rod fit together? A hole in a wrong place, and you get my point. I like oiled neck, like in my fretless (see my pics). Consider the profile (mine is square). And the side fretmarks are phosphorous. My fretboard is blackwood from Mad Inter (Spain). It is hard and the dust will colour practically everything it touches. Beware.

Sorry, true, the great amount of "mojo" made me see things in a "funky" way.

Strung lefty? You have to take a look at the Yellowjackets, maybe?

A basic question: is red positive? Are you sure?

Dealing with settings is easiest with a table. The Spectra settings were available years ago, and I found a comprehensive table from Germany. I think I still have it somewhere. I have three HGs. Love the product, but tweaking was a true pain in the beginning.

Try the code at CTS' pages. 20k is very common value.

There doesn't seem to be a problem, but just one, deliberately done. You are after a solution where you need scissors a decent piano wire cutting tool (Knipex or similar). Then you buy a box of certain brand strings you want to use. Measure, cut to length, put the strings back to their packages and start using them. Solved.