itu

Peavey G-bass may be a bit newer than wanted. Graphite, 35"... Ibanez Blazer series, maple is common, rosewood a bit rarer. Nearly anything from Matsumoku. Guild Pilot is one nice bass. Kawai is already pricey, MIJ Fender Lytes, Kramer... Japanese copy of some other brand's model like a 4001 or a 4005. But not a single ABG: light sound, mediocre quality.

Culture Club - Kissing to be clever Glenn Frey - The heat is on Huey Lewis and the News - I want a new drug Anaestecia - Cov, no, Cowboys and kisses Cole Porter - I've got you under my skin Puttin' on the Ritz Birdland (nice place like Ritz) Rolling Stones - Let's spend the night together Van Halen - Panama David Bowie - China girl anything from China Crisis

T-16 octaver, custom graphics suitable for diving. Wonderful unit!

Very interesting indeed, thanks a lot!

I am not quite sure that I am following, but I try to describe my choice through standards and one part. Thomann sells these: https://www.thomann.de/gb/goeldo_np10c_neck_fix_bushing.htm https://www.thomann.de/gb/goeldo_np10b_neck_fix_bushing.htm I would walk to a screw shop and ask for these: - DIN 7991 (hex bolt) - to match those Göldö parts (careful with the length, you do not want to go through the fretboard) - DIN 7965 (slotted insert) - to the neck, must fit the previous parts (the slotted end is the head and goes first to the wood) For assembly I suggest one basic bolt (DIN 961) along with a coupling nut (DIN 6334). Put the latter to the first and then tighten the insert to the coupling nut. It is pretty easy to screw these (straight) with the help of a column drilling machine or similar. When the insert is in place, it is pretty easy to open the set with two wrenches, and there will be no forces affecting the insert. Hope I was on a right track and this would help.

Most common "active" signal chain is: pickups - blend - vol - battery powered tone stack - output As you can see, the pickups are blended right away and the volume follows. Then there is the active tone stack, which may include treble, middle, bass etc. If your pickups are simple, two wire hi-Z units and you want to go the hi-Z way, try a Bourns 250k MN or 500k MN. If you want to try an active signal chain (lo-Z), replace the Bourns pot with a Noll Mixpot. It is an active mixer. https://www.noll-electronic.de/guitar-electronics/mixpot/

What is wrong with your Naka? Belt sets are available for a decent price. If button lamps are dead, they should be changed because the output goes off without them. You can try to find one unit with Dolby S. There were some, and they should represent the better half of the herd. Pioneer CT-93 was one of them.

This may sound (sorry) like a signal level mismatch. Can you adjust the wireless' output signal (possibly higher) and amp's input (lower)? The noise is amplified, if the wireless output is set pretty low. When you amplify any signal, you add noise. The more you have to amplify a low level signal, the noise level is also getting more power and becomes audible.

It is reasonable to check the polarity from the manufacturer's manual from their websites. If the unit and the manual are in conflict, I would rely on the unit's markings. Most of the pedals are centre negative, but there are also units that may need 9 VAC, centre positive, 12 VDC, 18 VDC and so on. It is not possible to mix units with different voltages or polarity, if the PSU does not have separated outputs. The currents should be summed (like 5 mA + 127 mA + 35 mA = 167 mA in total) and that amount should not exceed the output of the PSU. If there are many outputs, the single output limit should not be exceeded. The daisy-chained cable covers could touch each other without any harm. It is still better to cover them, so they will not touch any metal parts. There are plastic parts, where you can put the ends to. You could even 3D-print a plastic part for the free ends.

http://www.soundstagenetwork.com/vinyl/vinyl200509.htm

Anyone has one of these: https://www.elpj.com/

I have two small boards that fit - one at a time - to a mono Tick. These are easy to take along. The upper is for fretted and the lower for the fretless bass. Certain adjustments should not change by accident and there are few Stompshields. Some big knobs can be seen, too (Vong, Phat Beam). I can do adjustments while playing. The HB NG-100 is there to cut the attack, like in that Boss SG-1 (Slow Gear). I think HB is even more versatile as it can control attack and decay. mooer had few sounds from my other basses, like Vigier single coil. These do not look very handsome but they are small and functional. The power comes from 1Spot.

My alusonic 2 x 12" weighs 18 kg / 40 lbs, so I think a lightweight bass cab should be under 20 kg / 44 lbs. Then it can be carried with one hand. Trace Elliot 1818X was 51 kg / 112 lbs...

Not automatically. There are manufacturers who put bigger body to a 5- or 6-string bass. I find this a bit annoying, as the bigger usually means clumsiness and more weight. But your luthier is your friend: you can ask for a smaller body, if you like. Just like Rhonda Smith did.

Carbon fibre necks are a set of layers. Curbow had lots of laminates, looked like plywood. That pretty new Australian luthier seems to build his necks the same way. If that plywood is good for boats and aeroplanes, why not basses?

Someone said that his instrument will sustain longer than his clothes are in fashion. Loved that. If we go back to 1950's, Mr. Paul told that his g-word would sustain for ages. For the same reason many instuments were built heavy, because heavy equals long sustain, doesn't it Mr. Sadowsky? As long as the instrument is well built (tightened screws, reasonably good materials and parts), and the strings are functional, I see the instrument has reasonably long sustain. I do can enhance it with a compressor. Some audio technician said that Stan The Man wanted "something like three compressors" after his Alembic for the ultimate sustain. The instruments he plays should be the best there are. After all his technical team has long experience compared to most of us. ADSR or reverberation (60 dB) can be different in different instruments, but I don't remember anyone measuring it. Without decent measuring environment and results the discussion is mostly at the level of "I think". Bolt-on and neck-through are slightly different constructions but neither is ultimate. Only different in the building phase. It is the same with parts like bridges, or materials. Yes they are different, but the final mixture is the product which we should evaluate against other products - in an independent laboratory. Not by ourselves, where biased opinions mean far more than physical facts.

This looks really nice, big and... complicated... Has the signal found its way out, yet?

I had few pedals lying around, so I put together one more small pedalboard. Signal chain: Subdecay Proteus - IE Divaricator + Spruce Effects' Old Growth Fuzz in the X-over band (+400 Hz) - Schalltechnik Vong (adjustable HPF & LPF) - Hypergravity mini. The set works very well with my fretted 5-string. I do not think that the X-over frequency is too high. 400 Hz is actually quite low if you consider the harmonics. open G-string, practical approximation: 100 Hz first harmonic, 200 Hz (12th fret G) second harmonic, 400 Hz (24th fret G)

I have put together +15 basses. Parts have been everything from rubbish found from garbage to Status necks. Learn to be creative. You can take a project or two for trials: pickup placement, neck angle... Music shops may have parts like tuners and bridges or even pickups that have been forgotten to some dark corner and cost only a little. I hate the P pickup just because it looks so ugly. I use humbuckers. If I find a four wire pickup, I will put a series/parallel switch. I do not like pots so much, so one of my basses has no controls at all. Paint is a pain for me, oil is better, colour comes from the wood. It is your instrument, find your own design.

USB 5 V / from 100 mA / 0.5 W, USB-C, up to 20 V / 5 A / 100 W. Power regulation level depends on the manufacturer. A functional USB charger (or cable) does not have to be approved according to the standards.

This sounds so much like music. It's like: Now I understand a little bit more, how little I understand about music.

If you buy a set that costs £20k, the £5 power cable is not an option. It is the same with RCA, or speaker wires. Everytime when a seller or buyer starts to use e(so)teric terms, run! Do a search: "cable cooker". Enjoy!

The honourable Mr. Green and his forces can also tint the neck, and satin finish is possible... I like the no-dots-in-the-front, which is one more option in the list. In the order phase I was thinking about the price a bit, but I received something special from the team. And lady Dawn personally called me to tell, that the neck was ready to be sent. Although there were extra options, the neck came earlier than expected. Talk about customer experience... Most of all I love the stability of the neck. It is there no matter what weather. The truss rod does exist, but there is no need to touch it at all.

The headphones may get benefit from different amps. I had a transistor based set first, but now I use a tiny tube headphone amp, and it is the thing. I think it is called Nobsound or similar. Ridiculously cheap, very functional with Stax. Is the Kenwood's type "Cooking chef", like my friend named one unit he had? There was something wrong with the tape transport.

I use a Mobilesheets Pro, which keeps a list of songs I have played so far. It is easy to wipe that data, but I keep it to find those played songs quickly. I have few thousand scores in the tab at the moment. The SW has made the tab's pen really useful, because I can write to the scores: tempos, anything.