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Sparkle Drive Old growth fuzz

Tuner goes first only IF: 1) the bass is lo-Z ("active"), or 2) fuzz/dist/OD does not change its behaviour with lo- and hi-Z signals, or 3) the tuner is true bypass. If the first and the second are true, it's up yours where the tuner is. Any buffers in between the bass and the effect may affect the behaviour of the effect. Same may apply to compressors, too. Trial is your best friend.

I would consider it before or after Hyper Luminal. Choose the placement according to your ears.

5 A x 230 VAC = 1150 W 10 A x 230 VAC = 2300 W My choice would be 3 x 1.5 mm2 for few other reasons. 1) the cable can transfer the needed power to amps with reasonable headroom 2) when the cable gets older, some of the copper will be cut, and the upper limit will be lower 3) slightly thicker cable can withstand abuse better

So you have two options: pickups - (s/p -) vol - vol - tone - output pickups - (s/p -) blend - vol - tone - output When you add the s/p-switch to this, you just need to skip the pot not used. The switch has to have enough poles to make it happen.

My Vigier Passion II could have a twin sister with 5-strings, and a graphite neck with 19 mm string spacing, but because two out of these three specs are already non-existent, I can only dream of such a bass. (No 5-string graphite neck, no wide neck 5-strings.)

Thanks! And no worries, I still have quite a lot of work left. Bridge parts are practically done, but I am wondering whether to do a floating bridge (a shape and strings would hold it in place), or use screws.

What do you mean by this, can you open this up a bit?

That's the very tool you need for balanced tension, and odd tunings including (but not limited to*) very low, tenor, piccolo, and tuning in fifths. * Sounds like text from a bank or an insurance company.

Tension depends on strings and strings only if the scale length and the action are the same. If you try the same set of say 40-100 on a headed or headless bass, the tension is equal. If the tension changes, your tuning has changed. There can be substantial difference in tension in the same diameter string depending on the core and winding. This is up to manufacturers and their specs. Not every G-string is the same. (...and where's my coat...)

I have been using quality silicone cable (similar to Sommer, but from Gotham) since early 1990's. I rely on it, and Neutrik plugs. No need to change, but they require some washing every now and then.

Exactly. I was considering teflon, if I only find the material. If not, then some oily polymer, nylon, pp, pe... At the moment the schedule is set to February. I wish it will be this year.

As I said earlier, woodworking comes from one strange luthier, self learned man. I am just making the hardware. I did not use bearings, and I get your point, @Smanth. Some woods are oak (fretboard) and curly birch among others. The body was an ageold project that I fell in love with, and the neck, well, let's see. Thank you all for your kind words.

This is far too slow... Next steps: hardware. electronics.

Usually every cheapo self build project turns out to be the high budget bass build. And I've been there quite a few times.

Take a look at different pedalboards in the thread. Even looking them may give you hints of what is needed, or should be done. Flat cable plug needs less space than...

Thank you, sir, yes, it is an Xtender. Oh, about measurements: the pickup edge is 3" from D and A string bridges, AND this fretless is 36" (like Overwater C-bass).

That resistor thing depends if you need that boost or not. Consider single/series (for boost) or par/ser switching. You really do not need three options. At least one is not usable. My fretless 4 has only vol and a rotary coil switch.

Similar content, very good.

Your answer is in your link: SPST. Not good. The switch should cut both live and neutral. No shield for liquids, not gigging? Sorry, I still don't get this idea. If the power switch is a must, buy something that is robust, and put some kind of a collar around it to prevent accidental hits.

Steinberger talked about his findings back then (ghost note issues etc.) but I do not find it anywhere. Someone could be brave enough and do some excavation. His comments were very interesting, not only because his background was design and furniture.

I think that flat setting would be helpful when tweaking the amp to a wanted sound. Of course the cab will colour the sound a lot, but the eq will give a good hint on where to go from that. I might take eq knobs away, and put them back to represent flat. (Maybe I have to measure my Soul head. And the Interstellar Overdrive. But measuring cabinets without an anechoic chamber is a chore...)

Yes, you can. But this switch in the picture isn't the most robust choice (not beer resistant, either). The reason for taking the plug from the wall is that there is one less fragile component breaking. If you need a switch at the rehearsal place, I would consider something like this: https://shopdelta.eu/socket-with-switch-mce-13-230-v-3500-w-maclean-energy_l2_p12782.html

Because you are now into old music, you sure need to listen to some of the very special performances recorded. Here's one:

Try Richter's new version of it. Can't say it's perfect, but fun for sure.