itu

https://www.wood-database.com/redheart/ The bass is Modulus Genesis 5.

At the moment: fretted 4 - phenolic resin fretless 4 - blackwood (Mad Inter) fretted 5 - chakte kok fretless 5 - rosewood EUB 5 - ebony This clearly shows that my favourite is black.

I did some homework years ago and tested a variety of units. First of all, some work better with high impedance basses, and some with lo-Z basses. That's why I have separate boards for different bass types. Clean blend is not my thing. X-over is (like IE Divaricator). With a X-over I can use effects in a different way than without. Low end is clean and makes the thump. High end can be pushed, even over ordinary limits when in need. X-over is easy to use. The main thing is to find the cross-over frequency that suits the sound preferred. I have found 400 Hz functional, yours may be very different, or even changing. Try it, you'll like it.

Just like @Woodinblack, I use fingerless gloves if it's cold. Playing is one kind of exercise, where the muscles have to be warm. No more wrist or finger issues.

Yes, but the neck looks wrong... it's in the Pro.

What's the problem with your main amp? Is there a need to put it to the classifieds?

I was wondering, why you have been so quiet for so long. I should have guessed... THREE basslines in a row! Amazing work.

Everything is here: http://www.ovnilab.com/

You want more tactile feel, you probably have to open the pot. The feel comes - most likely - from a spring you need to bend a bit, and then build the component back to a complete unit. An hour or two of work depending on the pot and the electronics.

I get your point @rushbo, but saving some time and buying a box of sets has been far more economical, than boiling and buying a single set every now and then at the list price. Go and ask your local dealer! If you want to clean string sets, having several gives sets extra time to rest. This gives slightly more zing than putting the single set back just after the cleaning.

One thing that hasn't been commented yet is the hand hygiene. Wash your hands, and if you sweat a lot, use some alcohol based washing detergent. After all, the dirt is mostly skin and grease. M. Miller was changing his strings after three hours of playing in the studio. This may be just a rumour, but I like it. I tried boiling (and washing machine and couple of other things like ultrasonic cleaner), but it is useless. A set of new strings is so much better option. No more worn out strings. Frets bite the strings quite a lot. Old strings affect fine tuning as well as the setup. A box of sets can be pretty affordable in the long run. I have made very economical deals.

I play through the alusonic 2 x 12". It is under 40 lbs (18 kg). As any cab it has its own sound, but can produce quite a lot of noise if needed. They have a 12" version, too.

Will this be the "Kinder" model? I'll get my coat...

Thou shalt not fight the religious...

I am using a X-over: it keeps low clean, and I can crunch the highs a lot.

The magnetic field dictates, what is functional. If the strings are close enough, you'll be fine. If you find bigger issues with levels, you may need to change the pickup, or tune the string spacing. The poles may affect levels somewhat, if the distances to strings vary a lot. This requires testing. Here you see a picture of an EMG 40DC (4.0" double coil). The viewing film is also from EMG.

I have been looking at this name for a few times here, and been thinking: "I have heard this before." But it was Tony Bennett. I feel so old.

You are interested in a comp, go to these pages: www.ovnilab.com Then if you really want to buy one, learn how they work. S.O.S. (Sound on sound) has few good articles.

I do not get how is the amp involved here? Here we are talking about speaker element testing, aren't we? The 9 volt battery has so little energy that it cannot burn an element like we have here. Only move the cone.

Sorry, no. I just remember that we laughed ourselves silly thinking about that 0.05 dB vs. £1000 or whatever the cost was.

It is seen and heard many times, that all sound possibilities are not feasible. My fretless has three choices where two would be good. Ser/par or ser/single would be the best options. Yes, you can fill your bass with switches and pots, but at the end of the day you will use maybe two or three sounds only, just like @Woodinblack said earlier. Long ago I saw an American bassist with Precision. The pots were removed and he had two switches in it: ON/OFF and TONE/OFF. He said that in the studio he may need the other switch, and live he sometimes needs both. Functional. Simple.

Here you can see my fretless 4. She has a step attenuator and a coil switch (ser/par/single). The switch (a Swiss Elma) is a two pole / three way. You do not see screws, the magnets are under the copper foil.

A local acoustic researcher did a test between two cables years ago. The high end one was ridiculously expensive, thick silver cable. The other was some cheap basic copper wire. The difference was measured, and it was there: the much cheaper had 0.05 dB less ultra highs. Of course the signal would deteriorate in long runs, like 100 m or more. There are other details that interest me, when I choose cables: robustness, materials, thickness, flexibility, Neutrik connectors... I am prepared to pay something, but jokes do not interest me at all. One reason for those high price cables is that if the stereo set costs an arm and a leg, the cables have to be something else than £2 from a local store. Someone just saw a possibility, and now we have funny priced cables.

Does he have a Cable Cooker (TM)? If not, I cannot trust his knowledge and understanding. Cable Cooker (TM) is a Must to every Hi-Fi person! I think he should also sell wooden tone blanks, that you could raise cables from the floor to make the sound more airy. (If anyone even faintly thinks I recommend this sheet, I have added this text.)