itu

What is that you are actually looking for? What is your "3 way speaker"? Peak wattage tells very little about the elements, the tuning or the suitability to bass use. Please be a bit more specific, and you sure get decent answers.

First of all, the price is on the low side. Expect to use cheapo units. Check harley bentons or diy kits at T-shop. A double neck is one big and heavy unit. If you want to try to reduce the distance of the necks, you may try left and right hand necks (if the tuners are in line). If you can position them closer, the body size can be smaller and lighter. A chambered body would help, too. A three position switch may be useful for changing sides.

One thing that I have found is that I only use two bands, the low and the high. I have omitted the whole band, or "clean". It creates more issues than helps with my sound. Comb filtering etc. If you need a comp, please try a multi-band comp after the X-over, or at the end of the chain. tce Spectra, or HG are functional examples.

Shouldn't the ring be fit to your thumb? I can see no benefit having those parts anywhere else than in the thumb and index/middle finger?

I have a IE Xero in front of it. For fun it's - yes, fun. Tracks incredibly well.

Dear @Bunion, Has that dark fretless been yours since new? When was yours made? I have seen pretty similar one with whiter stains in my earlier life. Kool, unlined fretless. That Wal of yours is simply fabulous.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lauri_Porra

Yes. Sadowsky is no good because it is light. I think the weight thing is so popular, because people haven't any other tools to discuss about the reasons some instrument feels or sounds good. How about the wood structure, shapes of the instrument, components... these already include details that are not possible to reduce to one simple number, like weight.

Pens have springs that are pretty functional with pickups and their screws. If the foam is black, there may be quite a lot of carbon in it. I might use some other colour.

The voltage looks high in the P48 systems, but the power is very small. There are usually only few milliamperes of current in the system. You can have that P48 attached to a dynamic microphone - no issues in the mixer, no issues in the microphone.

It is good to be pedant. I would also start with no resistor parallel to the pot, so 1 Mohm is the first trial and option.

Yes. You can make trial of this impedance change by using let's say a megaohm vol pot and putting different resistors (1 M, 500k, 200k and so on) in parallel with it. This way the pickup sees the vol as a 1 Mohm pot or less. You have here an LR-circuit. The pickup represents L (inductance) and the pot is a Resistor. Naturally the impedance will change, this is very bassic electronics.

Once more the bass signal chain: pickups - blend - vol - tone stack - output If all parts of the chain here are working without a power supply (usually a battery), this circuit is high impedance, a.k.a. passive. If any part of the signal chain has a power supply, the system output impedance becomes low, a.k.a. active. Low impedance output is easier than hi-Z to any amp input. If anyone has had issues with piezos (very high impedance), understands this. You know the thin sound that lacks bass. A quality preamp might help. If your amp has issues with the poor bass response, a preamp (or pickups, or active blend or...) may help. The output impedance can be tweaked with the circuitry somewhat, but the main point is that low impedance lets the whole frequency band out. Every component, and especially high impedance component in the signal chain affect the pickup response, usually by reducing it. This means that replacing any passive component with a lo-Z one will widen the response. Even the blend and volume pots, which are usually left alone while only the tone stack is replaced. If you still read this, take a look at the signal chain: both pots are right after the pickups - and reduce the freq response! As all things have two sides, many effects behave differently if the signal is hi-Z, or lo-Z. I have tried far too many OD/fuzz/dist pedals, as well as compressors, to find out that some pedals just work and sound better with different signal types. Make lots of trials and find this out by yourself.

Agree. I bought few kilos of 60/40 after hearing about this RoHS thing for us ordinary customers.

Do we have too few jazzes around, if that Grind has to be returned to that shape? I have to say that the bass makes me think of pushing that shape even further away from basic J. But of course this is about taste, which is simply personal.

-fret.

Musicman fretless 5 had a pau ferro board, no lines. Had one a long ago.

I have three (actually four) boards, easier than having just one and fixing it day and night.

Exactly. Clean does not mean a thing. Distortion is there, the amount is just not specified. Watts (RMS, 8 ohm) is a common (comparable) way of explaining the output power of an amp, or the input power of the cab. This may include distortion at certain level, like 1 %. It is meaningful to understand that bass can withstand up to around 10 % of distortion (nothing to do with the effect), and still sound decent. Remember: watts is about electrical power, not loudness, although they are faintly connected. Peak levels are funny, because they are so high, and people think that they represent something like ultimate loudness. Which is not true. If we have numbers like output and input watts, they do not represent loudness levels. dB can describe loudness, but calculating loudness from plain watts - no chance. We need more parameters. Cabs and amps can produce more or less sound. Watts, sensitivity... Before you certainly know the output level, you have to test the rig, or get lots of data and calculate. The question about the power levels, and their mismatch is mostly academic: it is very seldom the amp is fried if the load is more than 4 ohms. It is rare you can fry a cab if the powers and signals are at somewhat sensible level. I do not say it is impossible. Users can act erroneously, but hopefully this community can help those before any damage will happen.

Reminds me of Onkart Gromt Yellow Fellow, no, FunkyFellow!

You could share a pic of your solderings, if that could help us to give you some feasible hints.

Well, there are two options: - red to the hot output - red to the pickup's hot wire (here it is white) Both are practically the same, but you want to try, the change of one wire (red) is quick.

Red one to signal, black to ground. Remove the tone pot. The basic idea is that different resistors and capacitors direct certain part of the signal away from the output. As there are only two places possible (out and gnd) the highs go to gnd. The amount is dependent on the values of the components.

Is there a particular reason they couldn't?