BassmanPaul

I too remember the name but that's as far as my memory goes, sorry.

My preferred speaker system is a pair of 2x10s, Acme B2, stacked on their ends on top of each other for a vertical 4x10. The dispersion out in the room is far better that way than any other arrangement! With one cabinet the same applies. If you think that adding a 15 will add more lows it's not always the case.

Just to make it clear you can connect two of your specified speaker cabinets to your amp safely.

My first question would be what experience do you have servicing solid state electronics. Just 'cos you've owned the amp for ages doesn't mean that you can play fast and loose inside the amp. in general doing so just causes more damage than already exists. Do you even have a clue what to look for?

For a start we are locked down!

Swine!!!! I so want one of those amps! Enjoy!

It's kinda normal for a fan cooled amp to need it's cooling path cleaned out. Anyone who does this task should wear a mask as you don't know what crud the amp has sucked in over the years. Masks should be easy to find at the present time - unfortunately!!

A choke is the most likely explanation. For US models they would typically use a different power transformer or one with taps to suit the local mains voltage.

Two weeks later, what news?

I find it ironic that folk are looking for distorted sounds. We, of a 'certain' age, would have given a left nut to be able to hear our basses cleanly and without distortion. Distortion was pretty much all we could get!!! LOL

If Bill says it's so you can take that to the bank!

A 4x10 would be lighter than two of the 1x15s. Add to that the 4x10 might open the door to new delights as yet unknown.

The worst huh? OK The power amp will fail if the load is too low. In that failure the amp outputs one of it's rails which blows all of the drivers in the attached cabinets.

Just as an aside, the pairing of a 1x15 and a 4X10 is horrible. The 1x15 has no chance of keeping up with a 4x10. If you're thinking that the 1x15 will add lows you couldn't be more wrong as the typical 4x10 will put out more!

if the internal wiring has been chopped I hope that the drivers you have are the actual drivers the cabinet came with. Personally I'd return the unit to where you bought it for repair.

Depends on what the impact has done to the alignment of the driver magnets.

There are some helpful hints you can get to aid in the build so don't be afraid to ask. Good luck - you may well need it. I built my first amp, for a record player, when I was about twelve. It did work too!.

If you are using good quality SpeakOn cables hey'll be more than capable of carrying the full output from the amp. They''ll be reliable as well. It's funny but I read so many folk with fears about their speaker cable breaking. In my sixty plus years playing on stage I've never lost a single one!

You're using terms that nobody today generally uses. Tension is a vintage word for Voltage. Just saying. Please don't be so touchy when someone is trying to help you.

Personally the only Latin I learned was Pig Latin!!

When I decided to leave tube amps behind I was using a self designed and built 150W amplifier. I got to designing a SS amp in the pre - stereo power format. 200W/channel at 2Ω. As it was a dual Mono design and had two power transformers it was heavy! The amp I use today is a Stereo Class D power amp. I built a two channel tube pre-amp to drive it. I can pick up the rack case it's mounted in with two fingers. Add to that it sounds adorable!! Paul

Getting back to the original subject of which version to build I would suggest the B15NF. It's the version I own and I love it. Mine still has the original CTS 15" driver which I preferred over the Altec and JBL 2225 I tried in the cabinet. Using the Octal preamp tubes makes construction easier 'cos of the larger sized socket. To get the best out of the build you must use quality components. The transformers are vitally important. Cheap out here destroys your chances of good tone from the finish project. If you decide to use a tube rectifier: GZ34/5AR4 you should add a fast action silicon diode in series with each plate/anode. This increases the PIV of the rectifier and curbs flashover within the tube. I had to do this with my unit for the same reason. I wish you luck with the build and if I can be of help please ask. Paul

You've just made an insinuation about someone I have known for many years. He is ALWAYS courteous and nothing but helpful. Here in Canada we have problems once in a while between folk living in Quebec and folk living in other provinces. Translations can certainly cause difficulties until sorted. Your poor reaction is a comment on you and not on @agedhorse As an example of his knowledge read through the thread on the Mesa TT800. He designed both it and the Subway series.

Well he does design amplifiers for Mesa after all! LOL

Don't mess around with cap values - it's too easy to get lost that way. If the 'lil' amp uses a 12AX7/ECC83 try swapping it out for a 12AT7/ECC81. You could also try a 12AU7/ECC82. These are all pin compatible but each has less gain that the one before. See if one will suit your purposes better.