BassmanPaul

If Bill says it's so you can take that to the bank!

A 4x10 would be lighter than two of the 1x15s. Add to that the 4x10 might open the door to new delights as yet unknown.

The worst huh? OK The power amp will fail if the load is too low. In that failure the amp outputs one of it's rails which blows all of the drivers in the attached cabinets.

Just as an aside, the pairing of a 1x15 and a 4X10 is horrible. The 1x15 has no chance of keeping up with a 4x10. If you're thinking that the 1x15 will add lows you couldn't be more wrong as the typical 4x10 will put out more!

Depends on what the impact has done to the alignment of the driver magnets.

There are some helpful hints you can get to aid in the build so don't be afraid to ask. Good luck - you may well need it. I built my first amp, for a record player, when I was about twelve. It did work too!.

If you are using good quality SpeakOn cables hey'll be more than capable of carrying the full output from the amp. They''ll be reliable as well. It's funny but I read so many folk with fears about their speaker cable breaking. In my sixty plus years playing on stage I've never lost a single one!

You're using terms that nobody today generally uses. Tension is a vintage word for Voltage. Just saying. Please don't be so touchy when someone is trying to help you.

Personally the only Latin I learned was Pig Latin!!

When I decided to leave tube amps behind I was using a self designed and built 150W amplifier. I got to designing a SS amp in the pre - stereo power format. 200W/channel at 2Ω. As it was a dual Mono design and had two power transformers it was heavy! The amp I use today is a Stereo Class D power amp. I built a two channel tube pre-amp to drive it. I can pick up the rack case it's mounted in with two fingers. Add to that it sounds adorable!! Paul

Getting back to the original subject of which version to build I would suggest the B15NF. It's the version I own and I love it. Mine still has the original CTS 15" driver which I preferred over the Altec and JBL 2225 I tried in the cabinet. Using the Octal preamp tubes makes construction easier 'cos of the larger sized socket. To get the best out of the build you must use quality components. The transformers are vitally important. Cheap out here destroys your chances of good tone from the finish project. If you decide to use a tube rectifier: GZ34/5AR4 you should add a fast action silicon diode in series with each plate/anode. This increases the PIV of the rectifier and curbs flashover within the tube. I had to do this with my unit for the same reason. I wish you luck with the build and if I can be of help please ask. Paul

You've just made an insinuation about someone I have known for many years. He is ALWAYS courteous and nothing but helpful. Here in Canada we have problems once in a while between folk living in Quebec and folk living in other provinces. Translations can certainly cause difficulties until sorted. Your poor reaction is a comment on you and not on @agedhorse As an example of his knowledge read through the thread on the Mesa TT800. He designed both it and the Subway series.

Well he does design amplifiers for Mesa after all! LOL

Don't mess around with cap values - it's too easy to get lost that way. If the 'lil' amp uses a 12AX7/ECC83 try swapping it out for a 12AT7/ECC81. You could also try a 12AU7/ECC82. These are all pin compatible but each has less gain that the one before. See if one will suit your purposes better.

The 'G' refers to a glass container. The letter following defines the variant. For instance I have, somewhere, a pair of 6L6WGB which is an earlier industrial version and not as capable as the GC. I tried those in a Marshall JTM45 and they worked well. The 5881 and 7027 are similar tubes. When I got to North America I was actually surprised by how many different tubes could be amalgamated under the 6L6 banner. It's why it's important to state the full description for American tubes.

Just being picky but accuracy in this line of business is important: The tube needed is a 6L6GC. The 6L6 is an earlier variant usually metal cased, think WWII, and completely unsuitable for a bass amp.

IMO a scope and a signal generator are vital tools. They are how you can see if your amplifier has any spurious artifacts hiding where you can't see them. I haven't used an AVO since the Sixties but they always give me the warm fuzzies when I think of them. These days Fluke digital meters have replaced them. You seem to be aware of the pitfalls so I'll wish you luck with the build. What are you doing about a chassis? Paul

Just for interest, how many tube amplifiers have you successfully built? Do you have the tools and test equipment necessary to ensure proper operation of the completed build? There is a lot of stuff that you need to be aware of for your safety. I'm not trying to put you off necessarily but these things do run on LETHAL voltages.

You're forgiven then!! LOL Have a wonderful holiday season and a very happy new year! With a bit of luck 2021 will be a better year the world over!!!

Actually it's a different type of amplifier. Often the power supply will be a Switch Mode design to cut down weight.

If your power amp is Class D it's certainly NOT digital. D was just the next letter assigned to a next developed amplifier topology. It's analogue.

When I worship it surely is a little higher than Geddy! LOL

Thank you. I now know who you are talking about.

Come on guy - I've been out of the country since 1973!! LOL

Enjoy your new toys!