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Gwilym

⭐Supporting Member⭐
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Everything posted by Gwilym

  1. The user manual seems to suggest that it affects preamp gain and overall output. "Volume Knob : Controls the drive of the preamplifier (also use to control your output level)"
  2. It's also in the classifieds here:
  3. That looks very nice, and sounds great too, some youtube samples linked from here: https://www.notreble.com/buzz/2015/03/22/fender-introduces-deluxe-active-okoume-basses/ It doesn't, to my ear, sound like the VB bass that I played a few months ago. Probably different pickups and preamp in that.
  4. Anyway, £190 including tracked 48hr postage anywhere in the UK. This sounds great and i have nothing against it, however i bought it looking for something very specific, which was very low gain subtle break-up. This can do that (but not quite what was in my head), but also much more aggressive dirt with vintage and modern modes of operation offering quite a versatile sounding pedal. Stupidly I already had the pedal that does exactly what i was looking for (a Durham Electronics Sex Drive - thanks ovnilab!), so I'm moving this one on. Condition is barely used and looks pretty much new apart from the velcro on the bottom, and who wouldn't enjoy that? Would consider a trade for a Boss OC5. Or perhaps something filtery. Or something else of equivalent value. No fuzz/distortion though. Collection possible if mutually convenient, in central London/West London, in which case i will knock off a 10er, the price of postage. Thanks G
  5. EBS Octabass Triple Mode Octave Divider Blue Label Edition. A little confusingly has a green label. Anyway, £90 including tracked 48hr postage anywhere in the UK. A nice sounding pedal which tracks well, but I have 2 other octavers that i prefer and would be harder to replace. Condition is barely used and looks pretty much new. Would consider a trade for a Boss OC5. Or perhaps something filtery. Collection possible if mutually convenient, in central London/West London, in which case i will knock off a 5er, the price of postage. Thanks G
  6. The way i see it is that "clean" is not necessary a flat frequency response, but the signal is not distorted. So one "clean" pre-amp may sound more pleasing to the ear than another preamp that is also "clean" but with a different baked in frequency response. That difference might be described as warm or sterile etc.
  7. Same here. @chaypup got hacked, and now has control of his account again. Thanks to the mods for quickly spotting this and pulling the ads. Bottom line, too good to be true? And then offer free shipping, the alarm bells are going off!
  8. I don't think that was specific to SWR. I used a SWR Bass 350 for many years with no issues in that regard. Only (many) years later did i read about it on internet forums as a "thing".
  9. Exactly this. IME narrower is better for the reasons stated. If it doesn't sound good on a passive bass, it's not going to be better with an active preamp. Also a taper core for a better break angle over the bridge saddle may help IME.
  10. In general i wouldn't, because IMO the whole concept is a little cheesy, and just not very cool. That said, it depends on the execution. E.g. some are just so tailored to the artists spec that they may not be very useful to anyone else unless you're a real fanboi. Off the top of my head and with no experience of either bass i would put the Thundercat and Billy Sheehan sigs in that bucket. On the other hand, the Gary Wills fretless is a great functional bass and i also really liked the Fender Marcus Miller and Victor Bailey jazz basses. So, it depends and to each their own etc
  11. Never knowingly crimped a string before cutting, and I've never had the wrap unravel. Mainly been using Dunlop and DR strings too. So, not always a problem, clearly. I use one of those string winding tools (Dunlop i think) that has a integrated cutters, maybe they somehow crimp the string when cutting?
  12. I doubt there will be hardly any noticeable difference in tension when tuning up or down by a semi-tone. I would go with hi beams unless you prefer the feel of a stiffer string.
  13. My advice would be to find a 5string bass. Try before you buy to make sure you are happy with the B string. 35" scale may help, but not necessarily, I think the neck construction and overall setup will have more influence on how good it sounds. Getting used to playing a 5er will not take long if you persevere with it. The only reason IMO to go for fanned fret (or longer scale) is if you're thinking of going lower than a B, and even then it may work fine on a 34/35" scale bass with "correct" gauge strings and set up. If you definitely don't want a 5er, you can try a similar approach with a 4string bass tuned BEAD. Either way, far less ball ache than trying to hack together a fanned fret bass with no guarantee you'll end up with something that does the job, but highly likely a lot of time and money better spent elsewhere 😁
  14. I played an identical Renegade at the Bass Centre in London about 20years ago. I thought it was a great bass, quite possibly the same one. Looks great!
  15. IME there are two things. It has to be neck through for the tone. Secondly, the neck dive and relative reach to the 1st fret is a big playability issue, and the reason why i didn't buy one, even though sitting down it sounded great. As soon as i stood up with it, i knew it wasn't the bass for me.
  16. You can have two producer knobs in there for extra mojo.
  17. Exactly. They should be giving you a questionnaire with all the standard things they would need to know before proceeding. Sounds like you'd be spending the best part of 10k on 2 custom builds, and they are the experts on this after all. That said, i think do do need to have strong ideas of what you like/dislike in a bass so they can give you good advice where things are less clear cut.
  18. IMO Martin should be advising you through the process.
  19. Don't think it's been mentioned already, but you can run YouTube videos at slower speeds, but it plays the audio at the original pitch.
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