Gwilym

Maybe something like a fingerboard extension down to the low D would work, like done on Kubicki basses, all the notes remaining in the same position but you get 2 extra frets beyond the "nut" when you need them. Seems to me that the least ballache solution is to use a tuner pedal to tune DGCF and then all your patterns are the same. Or use your 5 string. Or how about asking the guitarist in question to tune to E? Maybe do it yourself when he's not looking, he probably won't notice.

There is another bug/feature where it will use the first emoji as the thumbnail, it it appears in your post before the first picture.

Wow, it's fair to say that MB don't shy away from the marketing toss.

mm or cm? Stonehenge!

The W could also be "wide" in which case you would have 19mm string spacing rather than the standard 18mm 😁

The MW also means Maple/Walnut. I've also seen MS models, also bolt-on i think but speculated to be Maple/Shedua. The G means the neck has graphite rod re-enforcement. There were also the BSRxJ models, great basses, used to own one and probably should have never sold it. They were BSR shaped with jazz style pickups. No longer made apparently.

The MTD Kingston Super 4 might be worth adding to your list

"The bass you see here is a BSR5MW. model. This means it is a bolt-on neck instrument with a Tiger Maple core body and Walnut wings" From https://www.doctorbass.net/en/c/?iddoc=1000170849&idsec=1000170855 I think tiger maple is just another name for flamed maple. This thread on TB also has some useful info: https://www.google.com/amp/s/www.talkbass.com/threads/ken-smith-models.1079496/%3famp=1404632303

I don't play the trombone, but I do love listening to them being played well. Steve Turre being a particular favourite.

I would expect a decent set up for that kind of money, even if it's not entirely to your requirements. Something sounds iffy, if the neck is bowed and has high action and you're still getting fret buzz. Is the buzz behind your fretting finger (nut cut too low?) or in front? (Frets not levelled?) As you described it, it's what I'd expect from a neck with zero relief and v low action, but clearly not the case.

But what a performance.

My first bass guitar was a Thunder 1 (passive, rather than the 1a which was active?). I paid £149 i think in around 84. Played it for a few years, but it was eventually replaced in 86/87 by a MIJ Fender Jazz Bass Special which was in a different league. It was a decent bass, slim neck IIRC and stayed in tune etc, but I never felt any need to try to get another for nostalgic reasons or otherwise.

This is a great record. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/No_Protection_(Massive_Attack_album) Was never particularly excited by Massive Attack, but it all made sense when I heard this. Highly recommended whether you're looking for dub or otherwise.

Any particular reason you need the wiring diagram? Pretty certain the same preamp is in my Dal 4. Would a picture of the control cavity be of use?

From the blurb on the web site: "designed for use with most types of solid state amplifiers"

No, i am the same. Too many things in flight and I get jittery. And and my age easy to forget about stuff that never arrived 😂

Just because it's the one I have. (The bass specific version didn't exist at the time I got mine). Not sure if there are any differences with the bass specific version w.r.t. the metering.

Jass Bass logo? 😁

A new used bass day a few weeks ago. First bass bought for for about 5 or 6 years I think, so I made it count 😂 This was formerly owned by at least two BCers. @ped and @Mastodon2. I think I asked @Mastodon2 about it about a year ago to let me know if he was ever inclined to sell it, and he was very kind to give me dibs on it recently, and a week to mull it over while I was on holiday. I'd previously owned a BSR5J so knew I would get on with the neck and 18mm string spacing. This is lovely bass and I guess a long term keeper given how rare they are and how much I enjoy playing it 😁 @ped and @Mastodon2 wrote some reviews on some previous topics and I can't disagree with any of it. And here's a picture with my setup. Tecamp Puma into 1 of my ACME B1 cabs.

That's a great colour, and a JB always looks better without a control plate and scratch plate. (IMO! 😁 ) Are you going for a matching headstock?

Do you need a compressor? In a word, no. Will you like what it does to your sound? possibly yes. I got sucked into the ovnilab review site a few years ago, and made a few purchases to scratch the itch of trying some for myself. Just playing at home at the moment, they all "lift" the sound in a pleasant way, and depending on the pedal, will impart a more effected tonal character or not. So, consider if you want that, or a cleaner/clinical action. If you want clean with good metering and control over pretty much everything, I would recommend the Empress (non-bass specific) compressor. If you want similar but getting a "warmer" slightly more effected tone, the FEA Optifet sounds great, but the metering is not so good. The Origin Cali76 TX sounds broadly like the FEA, but more vintage tone (especially running at 18v, which is when the transformer starts operating and the tonal magic starts). Lastly, the Diamond bass comp and Durham Electronics Sex Drive. Both fewer controls, both sound great and easy to dial in a great tone. The Sex Drive can get a bit hairy, in a very pleasant way, and sounds great. The Diamond similarly good, but would maybe work better if you're more of a slapper, or just wanted a cleaner tone. Lastly, it's i think it's difficult, and futile to an extent, to try and describe this kind of thing. You have your own ears, so take the above with a pinch of salt, and try some for yourself 😁