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Passinwind

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Everything posted by Passinwind

  1. The Presonus boards are by far the most widely used around here. Sound OK and seem pretty reliable. My friend has a few Mackies in his sound hire company too, but I have yet to give one a go. I don't know of a single band or provider who have bought a new analog board in the last two or three years out here.
  2. Just looked at the manual. The limiter comes after the headphone section and only affects the power amp output. It is a actually more like a power scaling circuit, not a peak limiter per se BTW.
  3. [quote name='wateroftyne' timestamp='1441469377' post='2859101'] There's a post on TB suggesting that the power module in these might be the [url="http://www.talkbass.com/threads/fun-with-ice-modules-the-new-700asc.1107755/"]ICEPower 700ASC,[/url] [/quote] Confirmed. I have been using one of these modules for 6 months now, and while it's nice enough, the whole engineering package is what counts IMHO. And so as always, just depends on what you want and need to hear and feel for your particular playing situations.
  4. [quote name='Zenitram' timestamp='1441271787' post='2857346'] I don't know how to describe it so I can find one online. The male end is TRS. It plugs into the mono IN of a Strymon pedal (but you open up the pedal and flick a switch to make it stereo), and you can then plug left and right cables into the female ends. If that makes sense. You people are clever and like a challenge. Help me find one for sale online. Edit for stupidity: "TRS stereo input adapter" is probably the way forward on this. Even so. Help a man out. [/quote] A standard insert cable with 1/4 mono male plugs (T-S) on the "wye" end would cut clutter and be a cleaner solution, IMHO.
  5. [quote name='Beer of the Bass' timestamp='1441210368' post='2856981'] Something I've wondered about active/passive inputs and impedance; I'm well aware of the benefits of a high impedance input for passive instruments, but is there any compromise in performance when plugging an active bass into a high impedance input, gain issues aside?[/quote] Yes, for starters noise floor is at least theoretically a bit worse, but as always, that depends on nuances of circuit design, both for the active bass preamp and the input circuit it plugs into. A single 1 Meg resistor is actually noisier than the opamps I use in the front end, especially if it's an old school carbon comp one. Many passive pickups are perfectly happy with a substantially lower load than 1 Meg, so I prefer to design on a case by case basis. And of course, how much noise floor matters to you is highly dependent on your playing situations. There are also certain stability issues that crop up more often in higher impedance circuits, which can necessitate band-aid solutions that may or may not bug some people. You can probably guess where I fall on this one. The beauty (and curse) of DIY building is that one can obsess over any little thing that others may often ignore perfectly blissfully.
  6. [quote name='BigRedX' timestamp='1441186521' post='2856682'] 4. Active/passive is really just about having 2 preset gain levels, and in many cases is a bit of a misnomer since I own passive basses with a higher output than many active ones. I'd rather see two inputs each with their own gain control and clip light so that the amp can be set up for use with any two basses and the relative levels adjusted to suit your needs.[/quote] My active/passive switching scheme is just about input impedance; it's up to the user to adjust the volume control, which is several stages deep into the circuit. To do preset volumes for two inputs is not difficult, it's just not within my own preferred set of tradeoffs. My hope is that since Chienmort actually uses and cares about passive basses, he will figure out whatever enhanced feature set works for that application. I've been learning a lot about that myself recently as I work through prototype onboard preamp designs, it is a pretty huge and interesting rabbit hole actually.
  7. [quote name='Opticaleye' timestamp='1440590544' post='2852177'] The initial stickiness wears off ( I gave my second set a helping hand with a non stick scourer and methylated spirit before stringing) and the tone has all the character of a good flat with some roundwound punch and brightness without string noise.[/quote] I'm guessing that stickiness is what LDTF experienced, I have seen quite a few other references to it. The strings I just received don't have that, so hopefully EB will be able to achieve that in all gauges going forward. I am not one to be impressed all that easily, but I actually said "wow" when I hit the first pluck on the first string I installed.
  8. [quote name='LayDownThaFunk' timestamp='1440542980' post='2851866'] That's interesting because when I tried the EB flats they felt rougher than the Silencers. Those Silencers had been on a year though, so. [/quote] The light gauge set that I have has only been out for a month or two AFAIK. There have been a few heavier sets of the Cobalt Flats out for a while longer, and the early pics looked pretty rough compared to the current spec. The Silencers on my other bass are at least 2-3 years old IIRC. The Cobalts I have are slightly stickier and coarser in texture than Jazz Flats, but only slightly. Given all the breakage and dead string reports, maybe you just tried a bummer set, or I just got an extra nice one. [b]Edit for pics just taken:[/b] SIT Silencers: Ernie Ball Extra Slinky Flats:
  9. [quote name='LayDownThaFunk' timestamp='1440525979' post='2851616'] SIT Silencers are already pretty smooth![/quote] Indeed, and I like them a whole lot. They actually seem fairly sticky compared to the EBs though, although I have very different gauges between the two -- I'm using the 40-95 set for the cobalts since that is closest to the T-Is that the bass was built for. Last night I got to play sets in a few different styles and found that copping the sound of T-Is that I have used forever on this bass was no problem at all. When I started digging in more or otherwise playing more aggressively the effort was generally rewarded rather than punished though, which I am quite happy about. These string are keepers for me as long as they hold up reasonably well, I think.
  10. I just put a set of the Cobalt Flats on my Crescent Moon fretless today. So far they kind of remind me of SIT Silencers sound wise, but with a much smoother feel. I'm off to a gig right now, will check back in after I see how that goes. I've had T-I Jazz flats on this bass for nearly all of the last 12 years and just wanted to take a flyer on a serious change. The EB's are that, for sure -- I can actually really hear the Q-Tuners in there for the first time.
  11. [quote name='Chienmortbb' timestamp='1438988231' post='2839316'] As I was tightening the slotted screws that held the stripboard and pot, the screwdriver slipped and gouged the back panel. I did a test spot of brush applied varnish and it seemed to work well but over a larger it looked terrible. So I disassembled the panel, rubbed it down then applied the last of the spray lacquer I had. Not great but just about passes muster. [/quote] Your back panel looks a lot more finished than any of mine ever have! Hope you get to actually playing bass through this soon.
  12. [quote name='TrevorR' timestamp='1439211614' post='2840852'] So what is it that, for no real good reason, puts you off a whole raft of bass designs? [/quote] Frets, of any persuasion. Plastic pickguards. Bolt-on necks.
  13. [quote name='Rich' timestamp='1438777056' post='2837113'] I like to hear [i]melodic[/i] solos. [/quote] Same here -- own the melody, own the tune. The breakdown thing doesn't do much for me, but it definitely works pretty well in dance music contexts and a lot of bassists and drummers seem more comfortable with it. I'm definitely not keen on hearing reluctant solos in any case.
  14. Passinwind

    DIY Effects

    [quote name='DolganoFF' timestamp='1438700711' post='2836515'] Beauty! Made by Oshpark, right? I have my fair share of the "purple pcbs" too [/quote] Sweet, what do they do? OSHpark is local to me and I have used them for quite a few boards over the last few years. For quickie prototypes their business model works really well for me. Here's my version of the ubiquitous Stingray 2-band clone preamp: I think maybe one resistor value is original, pretty much everything else is gently modded in one way or another.
  15. Passinwind

    DIY Effects

    [quote name='Badass' timestamp='1438669484' post='2836183'] Nice info there, [b]Passinwind[/b], thanks for that I will be sure to check this out. [/quote] John Broskie's website is Tubecad.com BTW. His board kits are absolutely first rate. On another tangent, here's my first non-clone DIY onboard preamp: Format is B-M-T with separated passive treble stack, switchable mid center options currently set at 720-1600-2400Hz. Current draw <1mA, polypro film caps used wherever feasible. Once I get the prototypes ironed out I intend to shrink it substantially with surface mount ICs and resistors. The design is based on my DIY amps and preamps done over the last couple of years, but I haven't done too many battery powered DIY designs before and have lots to learn about optimizing for low power parts. Keeping it simple isn't really my forte, love the challenge.
  16. Passinwind

    DIY Effects

    [quote name='Badass' timestamp='1433433948' post='2791068'] Has anyone made a passive / active D.I.Y. D.I. box? Or a valve D.I. maybe? [/quote] All of the above. Passive: just used one of the schematics on the Jensen Transformers website. Voila, Radial JDI clone. Active: threw a Creation Labs Redeemer buffer in a Bud box with a Jensen line transformer, compared well head to head with a J48, Countryman, etc. Tube: this started out as a DI project but somehow eventually morphed into a full blown bass preamp: [url="http://www.talkbass.com/threads/a-diy-tube-preamp-line-driver-by-passinwind.345415/#post-4388452"]http://www.talkbass.com/threads/a-diy-tube-preamp-line-driver-by-passinwind.345415/#post-4388452[/url] You could easily adapt one of John Broskie's smaller format kits into a really nice tube DI.
  17. [quote name='Painy' timestamp='1438639398' post='2836099'] Just pondering recently if such a thing was available anywhere and wondered if anyone on here had ever seen or heard of one they could point me towards? [/quote] Craig Anderton published his design for one many many years ago, in [i]Electronic Projects For Musicians, [/i]which is still in print. I intend to take a stab at my own take on one pretty soon as well.
  18. [quote name='Wolverinebass' timestamp='1438286729' post='2833336'] These days the fashion is to have a more DI authentic type response from one's cabs. So that the DI you take from your amp (I'm assuming a post EQ DI here) will be the same as comes out one's cab. My question is, does anyone actually make a cab or range of cabs which do this? If so, whom? Barefaced? Bergantino? Mesa Boogie? TKS? (just to name a few of the higher end brands) I'm discounting Markbass as their cabs have all sorts of weird notches and peaks in them and obviously Ampeg and Ashdwon as theirs are massively coloured. Okay if you like that sort of thing, but rather unfortunate if you don't. Do any manufacturers actually have anything that can deliver this boast or is it all just marketing pants and you should just use your own ears to determine if the "colour" on offer is the one you want? I'm curious to gauge people's opinions on this and if this claim whether justified or not plays any part in what cabs people buy for themselves. This is of course on the assumption that you could afford anything and didn't have to buy a 10 year old Ashdown Mag 4x10 for £50 off Ebay. [/quote] I like cabs and amps with minimal baked in voicing, but I also believe that everyone should use their ears and do what makes themselves and the paying customers happy. As a long time sound provider I would tell you that your onstage rig is never going to accurately portray what happens at FOH in a dance club over the course of a night around here, but in a jazz setting there is an excellent chance it will. So as usual, it just depends.
  19. [quote name='alexclaber' timestamp='1437575024' post='2827200'] Class D amps are not digital: [url="http://www.hypex.nl/docs/papers/AES120_353BP.pdf"]http://www.hypex.nl/...ES120_353BP.pdf[/url] [/quote] They also do not have to use an SMPS and plenty do not. There is also a pretty nice technical discussion [url="http://www.talkbass.com/threads/class-d-illustrated-lots-of-pics.1083366/"]here[/url] that may clear a few things up, or not. ;^}
  20. [quote name='JapanAxe' timestamp='1437338932' post='2825202'] The Behringer Ultra-G will take a speaker-level signal (jacks only) and send a balanced output, with or without 4x12 sim. There are two 20dB pad switches to bring the line level down to undistorted levels. [b]WARNING[/b]: Beware of doing this on a class D amp, as I think I am right in saying that this would cause a short to earth in the power section. Cue magic smoke. Likewise amps operating in bridged mode. I welcome better-informed comment on this! [/quote] Andy Field from Genz has mentioned those exact issues. Old Fenders just used a simple resistive tap to ground right off the transformer secondary lead for their line out jack, which works just fine for DI duty IME. Many non-Fender tube amps do use a grounded output config as well. And any amp will have some back EMF downstream of the power section, and the DI will potentially sound at least a different because of that -- not necessarily in a good way though. Harvesting that energy is part of the black art of Class D MI amp design, actually.
  21. [quote name='MoJo' timestamp='1437245646' post='2824674'] It's one of those statements I've heard more than once, 'class D amps can be loud but they don't carry. You can't hear them at the back of the room'. Is this another urban myth. Volts are volts, right? [/quote] http://basschat.co.uk/topic/266141-wee-article-to-help-demystify-amps/
  22. [quote name='AttitudeCastle' timestamp='1437238271' post='2824628'] Where do those who have them place them in the chain? I was thinking perhaps one at the very end of the chain to clear up clutter going into the speakers, but also one before my compressor, so the compress can squash less as there is less peaking down low. [/quote] It's one of those "just depends" deals. In my own designs I put it just after the EFX return, so I can use it with other preamps patched into the return and it also doesn't affect the EFX send. I know other guys who prefer one in front of the whole amp, somewhere in their floor pedal chain, or just in front of their power amp. Glad my little graphs were instructive. I do a lot of that sort of modeling and it's very easy for me to put something like that together. The Thumpinator's curve is likely to be a little different, the one I posted is just from [url="http://www.talkbass.com/threads/a-diy-500-watt-bass-head.1061473/#post-15624273"]one of a few different ones I've designed and built[/url], and at one particular setting that I actually use a lot..
  23. [quote name='Chienmortbb' timestamp='1437117598' post='2823644'] Sure to some the idea of the sound or response changing if the cabinet is rotated is ridiculous but allegedly many silly things change the sound of a cabinet. To me it appears that there will be very little change but if the driver is closer to the floor then there will be a change, albeit quite small. The question is clearly prompted by the idea that tall is better than wide for bass drivers, when used in multiples. On a final note, having read many forums/ threads on speakers, there are more daft answers than daft questions. [/quote] It's really worth getting Vance Dickason's book and reading up on baffle step, he provides polar graphs that are pretty helpful. This bit of free software may provide some food for thought as well: [url="http://www.tolvan.com/edge/help.htm"]http://www.tolvan.com/edge/help.htm[/url] . You need more complicated software to get the polar models, which are what you really want though. The reality is a whole lot more complicated than what The Edge shows you. Boxsim is free and goes a good bit deeper, and if you're really masochistic Akabak goes further still. Note that all of this is independent of multiple drivers and their mutual coupling issues. And in the case of the cab in question I would expect the difference to be pretty minimal.
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