Musicman20

[quote name='Paul_C' post='923608' date='Aug 13 2010, 10:53 AM']simple answers. don't use the truss rod to raise or lower action, but do adjust first when setting up - there should be some space beneath the string at around the 7th fret when holding it down (I use 1st and 14th frets, but as long as you're consistent it doesn't matter) this space is to some degree down to personal preference/technique/etc. once the relief is set you can raise or lower the saddles to get the action to where you want it - again this is going to be personal preference depending on how you play/size and type of string etc. usually the E is slightly higher than the G and the other two should follow an arc that matches the radius of the fingerboard. once that's done you can do the intonation and check the action again if you've done some big adjustments once it's done, if the action changes due to the neck moving (big changes in weather conditions and what you might do to compensate (putting the central heating on) will usually be the reasons for that) then all you should need to do at that point is tweak the truss rod to return to your preferred relief. because in most instances necks are made of wood, they don't all behave the same way, so there will be differences in how they settle when under tension - some move a lot, some it's very difficult to move at all, even with heavy strings on, so you can't be sure to get every neck the same, but it should be reasonably easy to get a degree of consistency. also different fret heights will give a different feel, even though all other measurements are identical, so again it may not be possible to get two different instruments to match exactly.[/quote] Thanks. There is a 'gap' as mentioned, but I personally think its a little too big. So im guessing, as stated above, a quarter turn to the right if im looking towards the headstock from the body?

[quote name='LawrenceH' post='923637' date='Aug 13 2010, 11:26 AM']The 'tension' in the jazz strings may well be due to the neck being excessively bowed, personally I like it close to straight under tension and then set the action for acceptable buzz - did this to my Jap 75RI and afterwards it plays so much easier, with similar saddle heights to before.I was lucky actually, initially I just couldn't get it doing what I wanted and the truss rod was really stiff, until I took the neck off for a few weeks while working on the body, when I put it back everything behaved perfectly and after adjustment it felt like a new, and better, instrument. It's been stable since too.[/quote] Thanks. Does this mean the neck needs to be straightened out? If Im looking towards the headstock, from the body end (as the truss rod access is as the neck-body join), do I turn one quarter RIGHT to get the gap between the strings and the board to be closer? I will obviously detune the strings a little so they are slacker, then tune up after the tweak. I have all the tools here....Im just being very wary that I get it right. Im thinking it needs a very slight tweak.

Dont do it.....if its still in excellent condition, I wouldnt touch a Sadowsky finish.

Im going to give two of my basses a good setup. Ive got the information but I need to check if this is something that is 'setup' related. Firstly - MIA P Rosewood - I think the strings are a little 'too' low and there is some buzz. Im guessing I need to adjust the truss rod by following the guides? Its nice to play, but the action is a little low. Secondly - MIA J Maple - The strings are the same as the above, but it feels very 'tense' to play. Im not really used to .110 Es, but I must admit the Jazz strings seem stiffer. Is this purely a neck relief issue, action issue, or both? Using the Lakland technique on setup, it seems the Jazz strings do sit off the board a fair bit whilst pressing the 1st fret and between 12-13th, (on the J). On the P, the strings are virtually touching the frets whilst doing this. Ideas? Thanks

[quote name='stingrayPete1977' post='923191' date='Aug 12 2010, 09:00 PM']But did we see it before and someone else fancied it? Looks cheap to me unless its a dog up close.[/quote] I think it was Sibob....a few pages back.

[quote name='bumnote' post='923185' date='Aug 12 2010, 08:57 PM']I do know I will be inspecting every jazz bass next time im in a music shop.[/quote] Me to! I am lucky to have a 2008 Jazz with excellent pup lineup...but this was checked over thoroughly by the Bass Merchants Tech. It also has a great tight neck pocket.

[quote name='dave_bass5' post='923181' date='Aug 12 2010, 08:54 PM']They still dont match up on the neck pup. You should be able to see in the first pic. These shots arent great but its really hard to shoot a shiny black bass.[/quote] I thought so...I hoped it was the angle. Very weird that they are the same 'batch'. Weird that they are still selling 2008s as well. See what they say in the email. I think you might need to get a brand new one ordered in instead of stock....and it needs checking before sending out! I can understand the frustration as I went through this with Lakland.

[quote name='dave_bass5' post='923166' date='Aug 12 2010, 08:38 PM']Here are a few pics of the new one, with the black PG on it. I need to get a new one as i filed this down to fit the old bass so it looks a bit of a mess close up. To be honest im getting used to it now and i really like the look of the black and maple. Its more the gap thats bugging me now. I guess with the body being black its not as noticeable from a distance. Still waiting to hear back from the shop but i have a feeling i might keep this one. [attachment=56422:Thu_12_A...010_0074.jpg] [attachment=56424:Thu_12_A...010_0101.jpg] [attachment=56423:Thu_12_A...010_0105.jpg][/quote] The bridge pup has a gap, I can see that. The pole pieces look ok on the bridge. Are the pole pieces not matching on the neck pup? I cant tell from the angle.

If its real it looks fantastic.

[quote name='bumnote' post='922976' date='Aug 12 2010, 05:45 PM']See pictures of a 20th anniversary ray, and my US Jo osborne. In both the pickups are misaligned, as are a number of my p basses. I never noticed it before, and I think you will find its pretty common. In fact even if you offset the pickups on the joe, it would transfer the problem to a different string, not eradicate it. To put it right would require the pickups to be moved fore or aft as well as to one side or a revised bridge assy.[/quote] Thats a lot more 'normal' I think. I agree it will never be 100%, but Dave's pics showed one pup was way out.

[quote name='martthebass' post='923143' date='Aug 12 2010, 08:17 PM']If this includes Fretless I might be up for a punt.[/quote] Unfortunately not. Bit gutted you cant upgrade a little to a hardcase or slightly different colour.

[quote name='Jigster' post='923005' date='Aug 12 2010, 06:06 PM']is musicman uk a new outlet type thing?[/quote] Its Strings & Things UK who are still the dealers.

[url="http://www.musicmanuk.co.uk/stockists.htm"]http://www.musicmanuk.co.uk/stockists.htm[/url] £999 But no hardcase. Id pay extra for a hardcase if im honest.

[quote name='dave_bass5' post='922554' date='Aug 12 2010, 11:51 AM']Well the new Jazz has arrived and the pups are still not lined up. But this time there is a large gap around most of the bridge pup. A good few mm at the top and it looks like the pup needs moving up. Im not sure what to do now. Im inclined to keep it as i really need to use it. It plays well and sounds great, as did the other one but im really hacked off at the quality of these Fenders now. Back to Lakland for the next bass.[/quote] Jees! This is NOT good. Did they not check it?!

[quote name='gafbass02' post='922367' date='Aug 12 2010, 09:39 AM']I'm just gonna swap it and if the next one does it then I figure it's just what these amps do. Live I'm sure it won't be any worse than a gained up Marshall stack hissing between songs. But for home practice or studio use on this particular unit it would be a problem. Hopefully on another it won't.[/quote] Just chiming in. I can't stand that hiss that guitar amps produce when at higher volume levels!!!! My RH450 is Class D and does not hiss. The LM3 is Class A/B and is very quiet. I tested a Markbass F500 and that DID hiss.

[quote name='malcolm.mcintyre' post='922275' date='Aug 12 2010, 08:07 AM']Well I can't find a dealer in the UK that stocks any USA Laklands, so I doubt if I'll ever see one of these in the flesh. Anyone know of a dealer with USA Laklands?[/quote] They will deal with you direct for USA models.

Quite a cool bass! Im not keen on blocks and binding on a P bass on any type if im honest though, especially the early design. Weirdly enough, I used to want a block/bound Jazz for a long time, and now the market seems saturated in that style, im actually quite happy to see necks without. Lakland seem to love putting blocks and binding on absolutely every bass hahah!

It seems quite a low level of hiss. Im assuming its either the horn, or indeed just part of the amp. Hiss is annoying though, I agree. If Thomann are prepared to swap out at no cost, it might be the safest bet.

[quote name='bassatnight' post='921567' date='Aug 11 2010, 01:20 PM']I have thought the price was a little too high, but then American Deluxe is going to set me back £1250. I am even thinking about a stingray but want the all black with maple neck and matching headstock I have only seen HS models in that finish or the limited edition from a few year back.[/quote] You can definitely spec a single H Stingray with 2 or 3 band EQ and maple board and a matching headstock You might even be able to get Stealth Black still, not sure. I prefer the normal black myself with chrome.

[quote name='Beedster' post='921498' date='Aug 11 2010, 12:30 PM']2. Because (and I know it's grammatically incorrect to start a sentence with 'because') it's about time I realised that if you've got a good thing, it's often at a slight cost. If there's one process that's characterised my bass playing career it's the following: [list] [*]Buy a pice of kit [*]Decide I love it but there's one little thing that could be better [*]Sell it and find another piece of kit that supposedly does it better [*]Find out that the first bit of kit was better after all [*]Buy back the first bit of kit, usually incurring a substantial financial loss in the process [/list][/quote] Wise words. I have been there and done that. Never bought back my exact gear from the person I sold it to, just gone straight to the store and spent yet more cash!

I went on a huge '5 String that still looks almost traditional' and the best I found were: Stingray 5 - 2008 onwards have the nicer (IMO) warmer Alnico pups. Sorry to disagree with OTPJ, but im all for warmth and traditional tone. I think this reflects on why the pre-08s (aprt from the early ones) dont sell so well secondhand. That, and the fact that most people seem to ignore the more popular and traditional colours, so when they sell it on, they dont get as much back. You should be able to pick up a second hand 08-onward Ray 5 (single H) for under £1K, and it will, well should be, in fantastic condition. Pre-08 Rays go for SILLY money, and are bargains IMO. In a few years, Rays will come back into fashion and prices will change accordingly. Lakland DJ5/JO5 - Great feel, nice neck (although the 35" scale makes the instrument sound very 'deep' compared to the 34" scale DJ4/JO4) but it can lead to tired hands due to the fact the neck is so large. Still a nice instrument to play. My gripe? Paying £1K+ for an instrument thats not as great QC wise as it should be. If you get a good one, you will be very happy. If you dont, you will be messing around for ages and wasting time trying/buying/refunding the same bloomin models 5 times over. If you want more bite, it needs a nice pre adding or a nice pre amp pedal. Personally, after all the messing about, and the fact you dont get a proper hardcase, I went for the Ray 5 (still incoming) purely because after trying one I LOVED it. I will not be modding this bass in any way due to fact the pups and preamp work so well. Plus, it looks traditional, and is tried and tested. The Ray 5 is one of the best selling 5 string basses ever made. This was a very very long process, but I got there is the end. If you can get a boutique 2nd hand instrument for under £1k, go for a Sei/Overwater. Another option is a Sadowsky Metro 5, but these have a totally different sound to a normal Fender. Very well made, and highly regarded as fantastic basses. I doubt these would come under £1k though. IMO - Ray 5 all the way.

[quote name='bassatnight' post='921372' date='Aug 11 2010, 10:48 AM']Chaps, I am about to order a new Bass and have managed to get the choice down to a Natural Lakland Skyline DJ for £1,100 or a new Black Fender Deluxe Jazz 2010 with the block inlays. I have played the DJ and its lovely really nice range of warm tones nice and light and of course looks the business, the natural finish seems a bit rarer than the more common blue. I also understand they have stopped making them now so might keep its value? I have not played the new Jazzes so apart from watching clips on you tube and of course going by previous Jazzes I have owned I am fairly confident it will be a cracking bass, but I just can't decide between the two. Anyone got a view?[/quote] Id give the Fender a try before ordering, if you can. I do like what Lakland do, but ive yet to find one thats right for me. They have indeed stopped the DJ production now, which is a shame. Have you tried a normal American Standard Jazz? If you are going the 4 string route, I would try one out, and if you want the active sound, get a high end circuit added or a nice preamp pedal. £1100, for the DJ4, is VERY expensive IMO.