Manton Customs

You probably just enlarged one of the existing holes, so no, it's not big deal and it'll be fine . If it ever got to be a problem in the future you could either have it filled and re drilled or add threaded inserts. But that wont be necessary now, I just mentioned it so you don't panic in the future if it ever became stripped.

Actually 16" is used on 6 stringers quite often, sometimes even lower. Anyway, there's a seller on Ebay who sells them upto 20" as long as your board is not too wide [url="http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LUTHIERS-FINGERBOARD-RADIUS-SANDING-BLOCKS-/330852715968?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&var=&hash=item4d085bcdc0"]http://www.ebay.co.u...=item4d085bcdc0[/url], or you could make your own pretty easily.

Well remembered Chris, yes it was the Sirius . My experience and opinion would be similar to Ian's; I haven't worked with it before but I have seen and played a Chestnut topped (thick) guitar before, which looked quite nice. Which species are we talking though? I'd imagine it's Sweet Chestnut, which is like Oak, whereas horse is soft and less porous. I wouldn't be put off it just because it's generally not used, the opposite in fact...I'd like that it'd be more unique. I'd ask the luthier what the blanks weight is like though.

To get it playing it's best whoever makes the nut should have the whole instrument to ensure the slot depths are perfect. So you would be better off paying a local luthier. You can get an approximation by buying one online (which is what most people do) but it wont play as it should without fiddling unless you're very lucky.

We could build you a custom body. Get in touch through the website or PM if interested .

No problem. Just for clarification when I say cure I mean to fully harden (this takes a couple of weeks for T.O) and not touch dry. It has been reported that the curing (before buffing) time can take much longer with old Truoil. If you don't polish/buff your finish you'll probably be fine.

You could use Turpentine or White Spirit/Naptha to thin it, whether that's worth doing or not would depend on how old it is...how long has it been open? If it's not particularly new I would discard it and buy a new bottle as it can take a really long time to fully cure if it's been open a while.

Thanks, we were going for snazzy . They are pretty hot (15.5K) so I'm sure you'd be happy on that front, they don't really sound like EMGs though if that's what you were going for. EMGs have a sound all of their own, a very clear modern sound which some say can sound sterile. The Claymores have more of a warm sound to them, but still very punchy. There I'm officially out of descriptive words for tone .

I've used them before and would recommend them, I'd describe them as smooth sounding above all else. I think they have changed the look and name of them since I last used one, they used to have gold writing on like the 6 string ones still do. I used one in this: [URL=http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/Manton-Customs/media/TheArchon.png.html][IMG]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u425/Manton-Customs/TheArchon.png[/IMG][/URL] I'm sure they are still the same pickup as the description and specs are the same.

One last picture which got forgotten, it's under an Ash tree so seems fitting [URL=http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/Manton-Customs/media/MantonCustomsTeleInspiredEchoGuitar15.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u425/Manton-Customs/MantonCustomsTeleInspiredEchoGuitar15.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

They are brad point bits and no, they wont work for this application. Ordinary twist bits will though, depending on the size you are enlarging to and from, I would step up the bits gradually and mask off the holes. The grain is most likely going to be plain and flat sawn so it's not going to be too problematic. A drill is the only real way you'll get perfect results. Regarding the hole not being perfect with a file, for me being in this trade it doesn't matter if I can see it or not, it's not acceptable having an imperfect hole like that but that's obviously up to you: take your time with a drill and get perfect results, or take care with a file and get mediocre results. Though if you aren't bothered about it being perfect have at it with the file .

Yep, string it up with some heavier gauge strings. Has worked for me before. I have also clamped necks to get the necessary relief, but this is usually for extreme cases and even then no heat was required.

Don't use a file, it'll end up a mess. Use a drill, any kind will do as the existing holes will center the bit and keep it square.

As others have said it's mainly down to the string gauge, there are some helpful sites to help with this, here's a good one: [url="http://www.daddario.com/upload/tension_chart_13934.pdf"]http://www.daddario....chart_13934.pdf[/url], and another easier to use one http://www.stringbusters.com/stringfaqs.asp#Calculator. If you do the equations you'll see that to get the same tension at A that you would get when tuned to B you need to step your string gauge by (perhaps) more than you may think. You really want something like a .145 to have comparable tension. As for the scale length: A 35" with a .130 B string will give you similar tension to a 34" with .135. So you can go around .5 lighter on a 35". This obviously isn't the whole story as there is more to it when you take into account perceived tension/stiffness which can vary over different brands and type of string. But in short, you need a heavier gauge set of strings!

Thanks!

Thank you! Glad you like it. Ok, all done here. Enjoy the finished pictures! Quite proud of this picture, so it' gets to be first and the main picture for the website. [URL=http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/Manton-Customs/media/MantonCustomsEchoGuitarTeleInspired4Main.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u425/Manton-Customs/MantonCustomsEchoGuitarTeleInspired4Main.jpg[/IMG][/URL] Shot of the back showing the single piece Ash body. Using a top loading bridge meant we could keep the back clear from any unnecessary hardware and keeps the focus on the wood. [URL=http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/Manton-Customs/media/MantonCustomsEchoGuitarTeleInspired7Main.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u425/Manton-Customs/MantonCustomsEchoGuitarTeleInspired7Main.jpg[/IMG][/URL] The colour proved difficult to photograph, but I believe this picture shows it closest to how it actually is. [URL=http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/Manton-Customs/media/MantonCustomsEchoGuitarTeleInspired8Main.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u425/Manton-Customs/MantonCustomsEchoGuitarTeleInspired8Main.jpg[/IMG][/URL] The Ash neck [URL=http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/Manton-Customs/media/MantonCustomsEchoGuitarTeleInspired6Main.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u425/Manton-Customs/MantonCustomsEchoGuitarTeleInspired6Main.jpg[/IMG][/URL] [URL=http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/Manton-Customs/media/MantonCustomsEchoGuitarTeleInspired5Main.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u425/Manton-Customs/MantonCustomsEchoGuitarTeleInspired5Main.jpg[/IMG][/URL] The headstock, the black and brass theme is continued here with the brass nut and name plate. [URL=http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/Manton-Customs/media/MantonCustomsEchoGuitarTeleInspired10Main.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u425/Manton-Customs/MantonCustomsEchoGuitarTeleInspired10Main.jpg[/IMG][/URL] [URL=http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/Manton-Customs/media/MantonCustomsEchoGuitarTeleInspired9Main.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u425/Manton-Customs/MantonCustomsEchoGuitarTeleInspired9Main.jpg[/IMG][/URL] Thank you for following this build .

What's your budget? Send me a PM or email if our prices are anywhere near in your range, we'd be glad to help .

I really like it. I've been meaning to build a Yew capped guitar for a while as have some nice stuff stashed away but haven't got round to it yet. One of those woods where the cracks and knots really add character....Anyway, sorry for the de-rail, good luck with the re finishing, I'm sure it'll turn out great having seen your other stuff .

[quote name='Andyjr1515' timestamp='1413291520' post='2576762'] With this one, me and the band do the gig, then pop it on the floor and serve supper off it [/quote] Yew can't be serious . Very nice!

[color=#141823][font=Helvetica, Arial,]Just a couple of shots of the now complete finish. These pictures were taken after the wet sanding and buffing. As you can see from the reflection of the blanket in the top, it's a high gloss finish![/font][/color] [URL=http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/Manton-Customs/media/buffedbody.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u425/Manton-Customs/buffedbody.jpg[/IMG][/URL] [color=#141823][font=Helvetica, Arial,]Here's the neck. Please ignore that little white speck at the middle, it's a bit of lint from the polishing cloth...I should have dusted it before taking the picture! The guitar is now assembled and mostly finished (just awaiting string trees and name plate) so we'll get some completed pictures up shortly.[/font][/color] [URL=http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/Manton-Customs/media/buffedneck.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u425/Manton-Customs/buffedneck.jpg[/IMG][/URL] Thanks for looking

We could do that for you, though I know Andy would also do a great job if he's closer .

Thanks Matt, still intending to put up a few more hand tool tutorials....Finding time can be difficult, but it will happen!

Thank you both, appreciate it

[quote name='flyfisher' timestamp='1410433908' post='2549358'] From what I've read, the best results when spray painting depends on a supply of dry air and basic compressors won't remove the moisture or other contaminants from the air. I've got a half-decent air compressor for my workshop and it's amazing how much water accumulates in the 50 litre receiver tank. I should probably drain it more than once a year but the last time I did it I drained off well over one pint of water! A cheap spray system could easily result in a poorer finish than spray cans so I'd be looking for some sort of air filtration system if I was planning to do any serious paint spraying. [url="http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/air-system.htm"]http://www.mig-weldi.../air-system.htm[/url] [url="http://www.spraygunworld.com/Information2/AirFilters.htm"]http://www.spraygunw.../AirFilters.htm[/url] [/quote] HVLP systems work from a turbine which heats the air so there are no problems with moisture. You can get very good finish with modern HVLP systems like this, we are using the Earlex 5500 which is quite a bit more money (though still very reasonable) than the one in the link, but the gun is a "real" spray gun as apposed to the plastic things you get on the cheap ones.

Great, thank you. He might be pleasantly surprised by the price if he was expecting to pay £600.