Manton Customs

As others have said it's mainly down to the string gauge, there are some helpful sites to help with this, here's a good one: [url="http://www.daddario.com/upload/tension_chart_13934.pdf"]http://www.daddario....chart_13934.pdf[/url], and another easier to use one http://www.stringbusters.com/stringfaqs.asp#Calculator. If you do the equations you'll see that to get the same tension at A that you would get when tuned to B you need to step your string gauge by (perhaps) more than you may think. You really want something like a .145 to have comparable tension. As for the scale length: A 35" with a .130 B string will give you similar tension to a 34" with .135. So you can go around .5 lighter on a 35". This obviously isn't the whole story as there is more to it when you take into account perceived tension/stiffness which can vary over different brands and type of string. But in short, you need a heavier gauge set of strings!

Thanks!

Thank you! Glad you like it. Ok, all done here. Enjoy the finished pictures! Quite proud of this picture, so it' gets to be first and the main picture for the website. [URL=http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/Manton-Customs/media/MantonCustomsEchoGuitarTeleInspired4Main.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u425/Manton-Customs/MantonCustomsEchoGuitarTeleInspired4Main.jpg[/IMG][/URL] Shot of the back showing the single piece Ash body. Using a top loading bridge meant we could keep the back clear from any unnecessary hardware and keeps the focus on the wood. [URL=http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/Manton-Customs/media/MantonCustomsEchoGuitarTeleInspired7Main.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u425/Manton-Customs/MantonCustomsEchoGuitarTeleInspired7Main.jpg[/IMG][/URL] The colour proved difficult to photograph, but I believe this picture shows it closest to how it actually is. [URL=http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/Manton-Customs/media/MantonCustomsEchoGuitarTeleInspired8Main.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u425/Manton-Customs/MantonCustomsEchoGuitarTeleInspired8Main.jpg[/IMG][/URL] The Ash neck [URL=http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/Manton-Customs/media/MantonCustomsEchoGuitarTeleInspired6Main.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u425/Manton-Customs/MantonCustomsEchoGuitarTeleInspired6Main.jpg[/IMG][/URL] [URL=http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/Manton-Customs/media/MantonCustomsEchoGuitarTeleInspired5Main.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u425/Manton-Customs/MantonCustomsEchoGuitarTeleInspired5Main.jpg[/IMG][/URL] The headstock, the black and brass theme is continued here with the brass nut and name plate. [URL=http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/Manton-Customs/media/MantonCustomsEchoGuitarTeleInspired10Main.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u425/Manton-Customs/MantonCustomsEchoGuitarTeleInspired10Main.jpg[/IMG][/URL] [URL=http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/Manton-Customs/media/MantonCustomsEchoGuitarTeleInspired9Main.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u425/Manton-Customs/MantonCustomsEchoGuitarTeleInspired9Main.jpg[/IMG][/URL] Thank you for following this build .

What's your budget? Send me a PM or email if our prices are anywhere near in your range, we'd be glad to help .

I really like it. I've been meaning to build a Yew capped guitar for a while as have some nice stuff stashed away but haven't got round to it yet. One of those woods where the cracks and knots really add character....Anyway, sorry for the de-rail, good luck with the re finishing, I'm sure it'll turn out great having seen your other stuff .

[quote name='Andyjr1515' timestamp='1413291520' post='2576762'] With this one, me and the band do the gig, then pop it on the floor and serve supper off it [/quote] Yew can't be serious . Very nice!

[color=#141823][font=Helvetica, Arial,]Just a couple of shots of the now complete finish. These pictures were taken after the wet sanding and buffing. As you can see from the reflection of the blanket in the top, it's a high gloss finish![/font][/color] [URL=http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/Manton-Customs/media/buffedbody.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u425/Manton-Customs/buffedbody.jpg[/IMG][/URL] [color=#141823][font=Helvetica, Arial,]Here's the neck. Please ignore that little white speck at the middle, it's a bit of lint from the polishing cloth...I should have dusted it before taking the picture! The guitar is now assembled and mostly finished (just awaiting string trees and name plate) so we'll get some completed pictures up shortly.[/font][/color] [URL=http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/Manton-Customs/media/buffedneck.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u425/Manton-Customs/buffedneck.jpg[/IMG][/URL] Thanks for looking

We could do that for you, though I know Andy would also do a great job if he's closer .

Thanks Matt, still intending to put up a few more hand tool tutorials....Finding time can be difficult, but it will happen!

Thank you both, appreciate it

[quote name='flyfisher' timestamp='1410433908' post='2549358'] From what I've read, the best results when spray painting depends on a supply of dry air and basic compressors won't remove the moisture or other contaminants from the air. I've got a half-decent air compressor for my workshop and it's amazing how much water accumulates in the 50 litre receiver tank. I should probably drain it more than once a year but the last time I did it I drained off well over one pint of water! A cheap spray system could easily result in a poorer finish than spray cans so I'd be looking for some sort of air filtration system if I was planning to do any serious paint spraying. [url="http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/air-system.htm"]http://www.mig-weldi.../air-system.htm[/url] [url="http://www.spraygunworld.com/Information2/AirFilters.htm"]http://www.spraygunw.../AirFilters.htm[/url] [/quote] HVLP systems work from a turbine which heats the air so there are no problems with moisture. You can get very good finish with modern HVLP systems like this, we are using the Earlex 5500 which is quite a bit more money (though still very reasonable) than the one in the link, but the gun is a "real" spray gun as apposed to the plastic things you get on the cheap ones.

Great, thank you. He might be pleasantly surprised by the price if he was expecting to pay £600.

Thanks . Yes, please see our website (below) for the email address and more info.

It's a little steep yes. It's not really a one piece neck if it has a rosewood board and Maple neck, a one piece is when there is no separate fingerboard and the truss rod installed from the rear (which would cost a little more). So what he has been quoted for is the same as most other necks out there. A multi lam neck would/should still cost more than a one piece, so I'm not seeing the logic. Feel free to point your friend in our direction if he needs another quote (we do custom necks).

[color=#141823][font=Helvetica, Arial,]Onto grain filling. Here is the before shot, the body has been sanded to 320 grit and is ready for the filler. We have chosen to highlight the grain by using black grain filler. The basic process is to apply filler, scrape off with a squeeze then allow to dry for 24 hours before sanding away the excess.[/font][/color] [URL=http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/Manton-Customs/media/grainfillbefore.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u425/Manton-Customs/grainfillbefore.jpg[/IMG][/URL] [color=#141823][font=Helvetica, Arial,]Here is the body after grain filling and sanding. The neck gets the same treatment.[/font][/color] [URL=http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/Manton-Customs/media/grainfillafter.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u425/Manton-Customs/grainfillafter.jpg[/IMG][/URL] [color=#141823][font=Helvetica, Arial,]Now to give it some colour! Rather than dye the wood itself this time we are going to spray the translucent colour mixed with shellac. This is my preferred way of working when the guitar has had the grain filler treatment.[/font][/color] [URL=http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/Manton-Customs/media/front-2.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u425/Manton-Customs/front-2.jpg[/IMG][/URL] [color=#141823][font=Helvetica, Arial,]Here's a shot of the back.[/font][/color] [URL=http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/Manton-Customs/media/bodyback.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u425/Manton-Customs/bodyback.jpg[/IMG][/URL] [color=#141823][font=Helvetica, Arial,]...And the neck![/font][/color] [URL=http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/Manton-Customs/media/neck1.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u425/Manton-Customs/neck1.jpg[/IMG][/URL] [color=#141823][font=Helvetica, Arial,]A shot showing the colour a little better. The next step is adding the clear coat.[/font][/color] [URL=http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/Manton-Customs/media/neck2.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u425/Manton-Customs/neck2.jpg[/IMG][/URL] Getting there now! Thanks for checking out this build .

Carbon fibre, yes

Could be your third choice (thinned too much) though I doubt it unless you went mega skinny, how thin did you go? Most truss rods are pretty much the same, so I doubt it's to blame. Normally the most likely cause of an unstable neck is the wood itself and I'm not talking the species (Birdseye is fine) but more how it was dried and for how long. There is also such thing as crap wood which will never become stable!

Yes, the 30" will be quite a bit more comfortable for that stretch. Below is the distance between the 2nd to 5th fret on a 34" bass and for a 30". As you can see there is a 14.5 mm difference. While that doesn't sound huge and it isn't going to be the difference between not being able to reach a note ,it can be enough to make a big difference in comfort. 34" 4.82 (122.5 mm) 30" 4.252 (108 mm)

Thank you

First up we are routing the neck pocket. The template is attached with two screws which go into where the neck pickup will be. [URL=http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/Manton-Customs/media/neckrout1.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u425/Manton-Customs/neckrout1.jpg[/IMG][/URL] The router wont be able to get into the very corners of the pocket, so here I'm tidying/trimming them up with a few chisels. [URL=http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/Manton-Customs/media/neckchisel2.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u425/Manton-Customs/neckchisel2.jpg[/IMG][/URL] We have chosen ferrules rather than a plate to attach the neck, which gives a much nicer more modern look. Here they have been drilled for and are being test fitted [URL=http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/Manton-Customs/media/neckferrule4.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u425/Manton-Customs/neckferrule4.jpg[/IMG][/URL] And the test fit....like a glove! Now it's time to rout for the pickups. [URL=http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/Manton-Customs/media/testfit3.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u425/Manton-Customs/testfit3.jpg[/IMG][/URL] Drilling away the waste in the neck pickup cavity before moving on to routing. It looks a little messy at this point, but it's all going to be routed away very shortly! [URL=http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/Manton-Customs/media/neckpickup5.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u425/Manton-Customs/neckpickup5.jpg[/IMG][/URL] Here I'm routing for the bridge pickup, ignore all the unnecessary lines (such as the bridge outline), they are from previous uses. Notice how I attach the template with the bridge screws, this ensures the rout is in the right place and at the right angle. It also prevents it moving! [URL=http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/Manton-Customs/media/bridgepickup6.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u425/Manton-Customs/bridgepickup6.jpg[/IMG][/URL] This is the control cavity template. I'm drilling away the waste in the control cavity with Forstners bits before routing. [URL=http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/Manton-Customs/media/cavity7.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u425/Manton-Customs/cavity7.jpg[/IMG][/URL] All routs completed, next up is the roundover. [URL=http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/Manton-Customs/media/beforeroundover8.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u425/Manton-Customs/beforeroundover8.jpg[/IMG][/URL] Here is the roughed out roundover. We have gone for a much more rounded edge than that of a Tele to again give a more modern, flowing look. [URL=http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/Manton-Customs/media/roundover10.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u425/Manton-Customs/roundover10.jpg[/IMG][/URL] Drilling the jack with a 20 mm Forstner bit. It's important this is done after the roundover! Otherwise your roundover bit will "fall" into this hole when routing and make a huge mess! [URL=http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/Manton-Customs/media/Jackdrilling9.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u425/Manton-Customs/Jackdrilling9.jpg[/IMG][/URL] And here we are, the nearly finished body! All that remains to do is to sand and apply dye, grain filler and finish. [URL=http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/Manton-Customs/media/afterroundover11.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u425/Manton-Customs/afterroundover11.jpg[/IMG][/URL] That's all for now, thank you for checking out this build

Thanks, I agree 100%, sometimes subtlety can be more fitting than flash, the added bonus of knowing the wood was all sourced (reasonably) locally is also a nice feeling .

[quote name='6v6' timestamp='1405430629' post='2501818'] Wow luthiers must be cheap in France, that's how much I'd expect to pay for a setup! Planing off the old 'board without ruining the neck, and accurately installing and finishing the new one is a fair bit of work IMO, I'd be surprised if you got much change from £200 in the UK. Pulling the frets and installing some wood strips to match the fretboard would be most likely a fair bit cheaper. [/quote] I thought that too! I'm guessing he meant for the fingerboard blank? £30 to £60 sounds about right for the blank depending on species, though normally a bit cheaper. And yes, the fingerboard would be removed with heat/steam.

Thank you, getting close (ish!) now!

[color=#333333][font=Helvetica, Arial,]Onto carving the neck profile, the most enjoyable part of the whole build! After deciding on a neck profile shape we draw it up. This drawing gives us a series of facets which need to be carved from the currently square neck. Here you can see these facets have been drawn on to the neck.[/font][/color] [url="http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/Manton-Customs/media/facets.jpg.html"][/url] [color=#333333][font=Helvetica, Arial,]These primary facets are removed with the drawknife, I'm using this awesome tool more and more these days.,..it can take off large amounts of wood and do fine shaving like you see here.[/font][/color] [url="http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/Manton-Customs/media/drawknife.jpg.html"][/url] [color=#333333][font=Helvetica, Arial,]Some of the tools used for the carving: the drawknife and a Micro Plane rasp (used to get into smaller areas). Not in the picture is a sander and lots of paper, plus chisels for carving the heel and headstock transitions.[/font][/color] [url="http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/Manton-Customs/media/neckcarving.jpg.html"][/url] [color=#333333][font=Helvetica, Arial,]Here is the rough carved neck. After all the carving it has revealed a rather attractive neck![/font][/color] [url="http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/Manton-Customs/media/carved.jpg.html"][/url] [color=#333333][font=Helvetica, Arial,]Onto fretwork. The board has been carefully masked off before moving onto leveling, beveling and crowning. The frets went in almost completely level, so there it wasn't a lot of material to remove during leveling.[/font][/color] [url="http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/Manton-Customs/media/fretwork.jpg.html"][/url] [color=#333333][font=Helvetica, Arial,]Here's the (almost) finished frets which have been carefully shaped/beveled to give a nice comfy feel at the edges. All that remains for them is a fine polish. Also notice the side position dots have been fitted. Please excuse the wood dust all over the fingerboard![/font][/color] [url="http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/Manton-Customs/media/fretendsandsidedots.jpg.html"][/url] [color=#333333][font=Helvetica, Arial,]Next it was fine sanded to 320 grit, I would have gone higher if it were to get a natural finish, but polished wood does not take dye as well. This is a shot of the neck being wet back to raise the grain during the sanding process.[/font][/color] [url="http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/Manton-Customs/media/overviewedited.jpg.html"][/url] [color=#333333][font=Helvetica, Arial,]Test fitting the tuners to drill the small mounting screw holes.[/font][/color] [url="http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/Manton-Customs/media/tuners.jpg.html"][/url] [color=#333333][font=Helvetica, Arial,]That's the neck done minus finishing and dyeing. Onto the body now![/font][/color] [url="http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/Manton-Customs/media/overview1edited-1.jpg.html"][/url] Thanks for checking out this build .

[quote name='kodiakblair' timestamp='1405055049' post='2498299'] Thanks I castle. A fella over on TB was saying his fretless with black beauties was "dull" and he wanted to add a steel plate. Have no idea if it would work but I know a guy used an aluminium fingerboard ,he swore by it. Can't really see what he wants to achieve? He's talking about keeping the "clang" but having more "clatch"? [/quote] He's probably after a different slap sound...Either that or he is mistaken and thinks it will alter the overall tone (assuming he meant just a plate at the last fret).