Manton Customs

Great, thank you! Anyone coming by train and want to split a taxi from the station ?

Room for one more ? I would like to come and bring my latest build for you all to have a go on. I would prefer to bring more basses but seeing as I would be coming by train I unfortunately can't bring any more, or even an amp so hoping someone can help me out by letting me share their amp! Here is a picture of said bass plus a link to it in the build diaries. [url="http://basschat.co.uk/topic/229856-manton-customs-cherry-and-maple-sirius-4-string-32-scale-bass-build/"]http://basschat.co.u...ale-bass-build/[/url] [url="http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/Manton-Customs/media/MantonCustomsSiriusBass1-1.jpg.html"][/url]

[color=#141414][font=verdana, geneva, lucida,] And a few more! [/font][/color] [color=#141414][font=verdana, geneva, lucida,] [URL=http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/Manton-Customs/media/MantonCustomsSiriusBass7-1.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u425/Manton-Customs/MantonCustomsSiriusBass7-1.jpg[/IMG][/URL][/font][/color] [color=#141414][font=verdana, geneva, lucida,] [URL=http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/Manton-Customs/media/MantonCustomsSiriusBass8.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u425/Manton-Customs/MantonCustomsSiriusBass8.jpg[/IMG][/URL][/font][/color] [color=#141414][font=verdana, geneva, lucida,] [URL=http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/Manton-Customs/media/MantonCustomsSiriusBass18-1.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u425/Manton-Customs/MantonCustomsSiriusBass18-1.jpg[/IMG][/URL][/font][/color] [color=#141414][font=verdana, geneva, lucida,] That's it now...honest [/font][/color]

Thank you very much, really appreciate it!

[color=#141414][font=verdana, geneva, lucida,]Ok, here we go with the finished shots! The final few jobs were assembling the bass, shielding the cavities and wiring it up. Also making the cavity cover and truss rod cover...there wasn't a lot to picture but you can see them completed on the bass below. Not being a fan of plastic I made the truss rod cover out of Cherry (dyed black for a nice contrast) and the cavity lid from English Maple (also dyed).[/font][/color] [color=#141414][font=verdana, geneva, lucida,]Seeing as the bass has a natural vibe to it I tried to find some places that reflect this for the pictures, I hope I got it right .[/font][/color] [color=#141414][font=verdana, geneva, lucida,][url="http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/Manton-Customs/media/MantonCustomsSiriusBass2.jpg.html"][/url][/font][/color] [color=#141414][font=verdana, geneva, lucida,]Note the Maple cavity lid![/font][/color] [color=#141414][font=verdana, geneva, lucida,][url="http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/Manton-Customs/media/MantonCustomsSiriusBass5.jpg.html"][/url][/font][/color] [color=#141414][font=verdana, geneva, lucida,][url="http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/Manton-Customs/media/MantonCustomsSiriusBass3.jpg.html"][/url][/font][/color] [color=#141414][font=verdana, geneva, lucida,][url="http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/Manton-Customs/media/MantonCustomsSiriusBass1-1.jpg.html"][/url][/font][/color] [color=#141414][font=verdana, geneva, lucida,][url="http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/Manton-Customs/media/MantonCustomsSiriusBass11-1.jpg.html"][/url][/font][/color] [color=#141414][font=verdana, geneva, lucida,][url="http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/Manton-Customs/media/MantonCustomsSiriusBass10.jpg.html"][/url][/font][/color] [color=#141414][font=verdana, geneva, lucida,]Cherry truss rod cover[/font][/color] [color=#141414][font=verdana, geneva, lucida,][url="http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/Manton-Customs/media/MantonCustomsSiriusBass12.jpg.html"][/url][/font][/color] [color=#141414][font=verdana, geneva, lucida,]Thank you to all who have commented on and followed this build, I'll be back soon with more builds![/font][/color]

[quote name='White Cloud' timestamp='1399132808' post='2441396'] Wow...great work. I love the drying cupboard idea too! Congrats. [/quote] Thank you. Yes, the cupboard can be quite useful!

Thanks, its all finished now and I'm just waiting for some decent weather to take the pictures.

Yep, Howiebass is correct, it isn't going to affect the tension. You could make the ballend go half a mile back behind the bridge and its not going to increase tension across the two fixed points (saddle and nut). It would seem the reason they made the Yamaha bridge like that is to allow for more room for intonation as the B can be hungry for room sometimes!

I can't say I have ever experienced this when working with Walnut. Have you tried wiping with White Spirit (Naphtha) or Turpentine? Both are better solvents than Meths should there be any kind of binder holding the dust in. Wipe along the grain and not across otherwise you will be rubbing it into the grain which in effect will fill the grain. Even if this doesn't work and you cant shift it, it's not going to be an issue as its a fairly common procedure to fill your grain with a slurry made from the sanding dust and finish. The dust will absorb the finish and darken making it all blend nicely. Grain filling might be something you may want to look into for a Walnut body, it can look particularly stunning with a black grain filler.

Best to try some Tru oil on Maple first and see if you like it as it will darken the neck to a similar level as Linseed, because it is Linseed based. Tung oil or a Tung based wiping varnish is a good bet as the darkening will be minimal. Wax can be used to increase gloss, offer a slight bit of extra protection and improve feel. Liberon Black Bison and Briwax are both good brands. Just avoid any wax containing Silicon.

[quote name='rk7' timestamp='1397802853' post='2427483'] Subscribed! It's official, I'm a Build Diary junkie. Fantastic work. RK [/quote] Ha! I'll try and get you your next fix on this thread soon Thank you .

[color=#141414][font=verdana, geneva, lucida,] Bit of a gap in the updates due to having a few weeks off with flu and some other work taking priority. But we are off again! Just some small jobs to finish off before we move onto finishing. Here's a picture of the first one, which was installing the side dots.[/font][/color] [color=#141414][font=verdana, geneva, lucida,] [URL=http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/Manton-Customs/media/dots-1.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u425/Manton-Customs/dots-1.jpg[/IMG][/URL][/font][/color] [color=#141414][font=verdana, geneva, lucida,] The next job was to rout the cavity for the lid, this was done after the majority of the sanding has taken place to ensure an accurate depth for the lid.[/font][/color] [color=#141414][font=verdana, geneva, lucida,] [URL=http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/Manton-Customs/media/b2c75dbc-cca8-48e6-bb95-a2fe1831d8a9.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u425/Manton-Customs/b2c75dbc-cca8-48e6-bb95-a2fe1831d8a9.jpg[/IMG][/URL][/font][/color] [color=#141414][font=verdana, geneva, lucida,] After plenty of sanding its time to apply finish. Here is the neck in my drying cupboard which I built a few years back. It's basically a pine cabinet with a small shelf near the bottom, under the shelf is a 100w light bulb to provide heat to aid with drying.[/font][/color] [color=#141414][font=verdana, geneva, lucida,] [URL=http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/Manton-Customs/media/drying.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u425/Manton-Customs/drying.jpg[/IMG][/URL][/font][/color] [color=#141414][font=verdana, geneva, lucida,] Here is the rear of the body after finishing and ready to be assembled. As you can see I'm going for a satin finish as opposed to a full on gloss. This is in keeping with the general natural feel of the bass and the neck will feel like playing on natural wood.[/font][/color] [color=#141414][font=verdana, geneva, lucida,] [URL=http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/Manton-Customs/media/back-1.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u425/Manton-Customs/back-1.jpg[/IMG][/URL][/font][/color] [color=#141414][font=verdana, geneva, lucida,] Here's a shot of the front. So we are onto assembly next![/font][/color] [color=#141414][font=verdana, geneva, lucida,] [URL=http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/Manton-Customs/media/front-1.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u425/Manton-Customs/front-1.jpg[/IMG][/URL][/font][/color] [color=#141414][font=verdana, geneva, lucida,] Thanks for looking.[/font][/color]

[quote name='rk7' timestamp='1397290274' post='2422469'] Brilliant. A really informative thread. Looking forward to more of the same? A honing guide is now on my shopping list. I recently had a go at refurbing an old plane my Dad gave me. Mixed results, but an overall improvement. Thanks for this thread RK [/quote] Thank you, I'm glad you liked it. Yes I do intend on putting up a few other tutorials, hand plane use being one of them as they are a very useful tool which few people actually bother with these days.

If its a poly finish it should buff back up as long as you didn't scratch it too deeply, micro mesh or automotive polishing compound should both work. I have had more luck with polishing compound though, Autosol was the brand which has worked well for me.

[quote name='davedave' timestamp='1396429190' post='2413361'] Thanks very much for this. I'm a very inexperienced builder without a woodworking background. Stuff like this is incredibly useful. Dave. [/quote] You're welcome Dave, really glad to help you on your way.

[quote name='Phil Starr' timestamp='1394958533' post='2396993'] Water based will penetrate too, actually I think it's a mixture of water and alcohol but I don't suppose that is important.. I'm guessing at the finish you are after but it sounds as if you want something like a 'limed' effect but black not white. Lime is applied as a paste and because it is made of particles not dissolved pigment it won't penetrate but sit on the surface and in the grain. Then if you sand back it exposes the wood but leaves the white in the grain. Nowadays people use liming wax or even eggshell paint to achieve the effect. [url="http://voices.yahoo.com/how-create-aged-effect-liming-wood-2549318.html"]http://voices.yahoo....od-2549318.html[/url] You might be able to do this with black paint. [/quote] Actually it won't penertrate deeply on the surface, it will penertrate deep into the grain and end grain but a quick sand back (even with 400) will easily remove it from the surface. This is a common procedure on working with a lot of woods. Firstly, applying a coat of dye and then sanding it off to leave it only in the grain, after which applying a second final coat. It works especially well on quilted and flamed Maple to "pop" the grain. Post number 3 above gives an example of what we are talking about. Whether that was done with dye or filler I don't know but both will work. If you take a look at my website "The Immortal" looked just like this before having its final coat. Trying on scrap is a good idea!

[quote name='hamfist' timestamp='1394747192' post='2394854'] Yes that is exactly the look I had in mind. I'm not looking for a glass smooth look. I like the wood to have more of a natural feel to it. So, simply dyeing with a dark dye and then sanding back should give me the dyed grain figuring (I guess where the dye is taken deeper) and lighter patches inbetween ? Would it be critical what type of wood dye I used ? I've used the Colron refined wood dyes (from B&Q) before on a mahogany P body before to good effect. I still have a load of it left in a dark mahogany colour, which might be nice to emphasize the grain of the ash. [/quote] I cant speak for the bass posted as there may be a slightly different process there, (I suspect grain filling) though I have achieved very similar results by dyeing and sanding back. Sand up through the grits (raise the grain multiple times if you're using water based dye), apply dye to the whole body then sand back to a level where you want it. The black will stay in the deep grain but be removed from the surface. Experiment and see what you like, its easy to remove if you get it wrong .

You have a few options, if you want a smooth finish with no visible (edit: open) pores the best option is to grain fill with a black filler. Dyeing and sanding back is also an option but then you will still have a visible pores (black ones!), which can look cool if that is what you're after. It depends if you're after a more natural look where you can feel the grain, or a glass smooth one...if the latter grain fill .

Thank you , glad you like it.

[color=#333333]Now with all those nice sharp chisels (see tutorial in sig) I get to work![/color] [color=#333333]Here I'm chiseling out those troublesome pickup corners mentioned earlier. I say troublesome as a pickup usually has 4 corners but these have 7...and there are two pickups, so 14 corners! It wasn't too bad really though and was completed in around an hour. The key to good results is using the edges (which should be dead straight!) of the pickup rout as a guide by resting the back of the blade against them and using the chisels almost like a plane. Just don't try and take too much off in one go or it'll chip and look awful![/color] [url="http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/Manton-Customs/media/chiselling1.jpg.html"][/url] [color=#333333][size=3]Here are the pickups roughly in place, I have also drilled the holes for the pickup wires, as you can see them coming out the back.[/size][/color] [color=#333333][size=3][url="http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/Manton-Customs/media/pickupsin2.jpg.html"][/url][/size][/color] [color=#333333]The jack drilled for, I'm using a Gotoh football style jack plate with a switchcraft jack. That's now the body done except for some minor tidy ups and sanding.[/color] [url="http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/Manton-Customs/media/jackdrilled4.jpg.html"][/url] [color=#333333]Onto one of the final jobs on the neck...drilling for the tuners. It is important to make sure they are symmetrical and none of them interfere with each other.[/color] [url="http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/Manton-Customs/media/tunersdrilled3.jpg.html"][/url] A Mockup of the body [url="http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/Manton-Customs/media/mockupbody5.jpg.html"][/url] [color=#333333]A full mockup picture. There isn't a lot of work left now really, just sanding finishing, assembly and setup.[/color] [url="http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/Manton-Customs/media/fullmockup6.jpg.html"][/url] That's all for now, thank you for stopping by

[quote name='Dolando' timestamp='1394549388' post='2392548'] I did think that might be an issue. That bandsaw has been sold now, but I think if I'm going to be spending that kind of money on one, then i might as well hold off for a bigger one. There always seems to be plenty going up on ebay etc. so will keep an eye out. But if the right jigsaw goes for the right price i'll probably get it to get me started and do what you said with the bushing. Are those the Axcaliber ones? I was tempted by one of those, but wasn't sure how good they would be for that price. Thanks. [/quote] Yep, the Axcaliber ones, they cut very cleanly and tear out is rare unless you do something silly, the 3/4" one I use for bodies has lasted well so far too.

Difficult to tell from the picture, but I think its Ash as it looks too porous to be Alder. Swamp Ash is the same as Northern Ash, just a weight classification really (swamp=light).

[quote name='Dolando' timestamp='1394532571' post='2392229'] Yea, thats what i've always been told. I'd want to get a good one as i'll probably do at least couple of bodies with it, and its a handy tool to have around the house. I'll keep an eye out for a bandsaw, but will probably get a jigsaw. Theres one of these being sold on ebay by axminster thats a returned item on for £170 delivered. Seems to get decent reviews, but as you say, the table isn't very big. [url="http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-hobby-series-awhbs250n-bandsaw"]http://www.axminster...hbs250n-bandsaw[/url] [/quote] Ah, if you don't own either yet, I'd definitely go for the bandsaw, don't be afraid to buy used either as they last forever (unlike jigsaws). What you can do if using a small bandsaw is to draw your outline/attach template to both sides of the body, that way you when you cant cut any further because of the throat size of the saw, just turn the body over. That bandsaw you posted the link to has just under a 10" throat, which means that's the max width you can cut, a Jazz body (being one of the widest you're likely to cut) is around 14" but only across the bouts which you can get to easy enough as they're on the edges. The area you may find tricky is the cutaway, which is when you may need to flip the body over. As said above, even cheap bandsaws work very well, will cut straight and a lot faster than a jigsaw. Just buy a decent blade for it with a pitch of around 4tpi. The problem with leaving too much wood on is that you will experience tear out if you aren't very careful, which is why I suggested the bushing to trim it closer. If you are thinking of shopping at Axminster their own brand router bits are very good, get the 3/4 top bearing guided one for cutting out your body...They make lovely shavings! Rather than dust which some cheap brands do.

That's a nice blank! Rather than trying a jigsaw is there anyone locally that might be able to cut the body out for you on a bandsaw? Cutting stock that thick with a jigsaw is a bit of a risk due to the blade flexing, even when you think you're a long way from the line. What I'd suggest (if you cant find someone with a bandsaw) is to cut it out around 1/2" away from the line with the jigsaw then follow with a template bushing on the router and a long bit using multiple passes. The bushing will leave a little extra which can then be trimmed with a bearing guided bit....or just include the bushing offset on your template

[quote name='Beer of the Bass' timestamp='1393446099' post='2380484'] Indeed, useful stuff here. I built a bass in my parents shed when I was 18 and had no idea about sharpening tools. A few years later, I got hold of a Japanese water stone and a honing guide and learned how to do it properly. The first time I did anything using properly sharp tools, I was startled at just how much easier woodworking became. I've never tried finishing them with a strop, but I have a scrap of thick saddlery strap somewhere, so I might give it a go. [/quote] Thanks. Yeah, I think a lot of people probably fall into the same camp you were in before learning, so thought this may be a useful tutorial. As well as being easier to work with sharp tools, its also safer. That sounds like it would work well, give it a go!