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Manton Customs

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  1. Filling switch holes

    The best way would be to fill them with new switches. If you want to fill them without switches then appropriately sized dowels would be the best filler material. It obviously won't be invisible, but you could dye the dowels to match to make it less obvious. The specs say Poplar burl....so - http://www.plugitdowel.co.uk/wood-products/wooden-dowels/poplar-dowelling
  2. String pickup alignment on closed cover pickups

    Below is the description of the MM pickup. I've done quite a few builds with them. CERAMIC / D.C. =13K- Our Music Man Stingray replacement is an answer to may prayers. The Stingray is a modern classic, but until now, finding a suitable replacement has been difficult. With far less magnetic pull than the originals, ours has full length bar magnets to get every bit of string vibration, no matter how hard you play. Having similar output and tone to the original unit, this improved version has enough output to be used passive, without a preamp. For the authentic Stingray however, a low impedance buffer preamp is recommended. We also strongly suggest series/parallel switch or push/pull pot to get two distinctly different tones made available by the widely spaced coils in this pick-up. Includes wiring diagram and mounting screws.
  3. String pickup alignment on closed cover pickups

    Those type of pickups don't usually have individual pole pieces for each string, they have a flat bar pole pieces which span all strings.
  4. Manton Customs Build Diary Thread

    Another guitar on the go, due for completion this month .
  5. Too much forward bow

    You might want to try again with the truss rod nut undone (if it has one), use the clamp to get a slight backbow if you can. Then tighten the truss rod nut once you are happy with the relief. Keep an eye on it if you put it in your shed, for a shortish period you should be fine and the damper atmosphere may well help, but don't subject the bass to anything too drastic. Good luck!
  6. Too much forward bow

    There's a few options you can look into. Starting with the least risky, you could try doing similar to what you're already doing, just give it longer in the clamps (a week or two) to let the wood gradually bend. If you can gradually clamp it into a backbow so much the better, there will always be a certain amount of "spring back" when the clamp is removed. Did you remove the truss rod nut (if it's that type of rod) before clamping? Here's a video of the basic procedure the OP is describing. But you'll notice the truss rod nut is removed. You could also try the same basic method, but leave it somewhere a bit damper, the damper atmosphere should make the wood move/bend easier. Once you've got it where you want it, bring up to normal temperature/humidity still in the clamps. A (more risky) option would be to use heat while clamping, see this thread for more info https://www.talkbass.com/threads/rescuing-a-badly-twisted-1964-jazz-bass-neck.1137165/ which is mainly referring to a twisted neck, but the basic idea is the same. The last option is to get it as flat as you can, then pull the frets, level the board and refret. How viable that option is depends on how much bow is present. Whatever you do, don't force anything too hard and make sure you're applying even pressure, otherwise you can end up with a twisted neck.
  7. Manton Customs Build Diary Thread

    [color=#1D2129][font=Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif]A Wenge and Black Limba neck with Macassar Ebony Fretboard, this one is for an Echo MK II commission.[/font][/color]
  8. Fender Marcus Miller V truss rod area of effect?

    The truss rod will do most of it's work in the same place that any other bass will and it really isn't going to correct the bow/twist if it's straight up until the 7th fret. You'll just end up with even more buzzing at the lower frets and a backbow on the G side. A fret job may cure the buzzing, but the twist will remain, so you'll still have a crap setup. So not really worth the expense. You could look into multi laminate necks for more stability if you didn't want to go the carbon fibre route.
  9. Fender Marcus Miller V truss rod area of effect?

    Yes, judging by your detailed description you unfortunately have a twisted neck. You could take some relief out, which may solve the lower frets buzzing, but there is no easy cure for the twist, it's the neck wood itself rather than the truss rod. The cure is either serious luthiery, or a new neck. There are a few methods a luthier will use to fix it, but none are cheap or 100% guaranteed to last forever.
  10. Defretted maple fretboard.

    [quote name='Cato' timestamp='1509660892' post='3400746'] Thanks again for taking the time to reply. Expert advice from professionals such as yourself on things like this make this forum invaluable. [/quote] No problem, I'm always happy to talk techy/building related stuff! [quote name='discreet' timestamp='1509661053' post='3400747'] Just Off Topic briefly... could you use this stuff to finish a bass body..? [/quote] Actually yes, but I haven't personally tried it on anything like a body. There's a couple of guys over on Talkbass who have though, they were using it as a wiping varnish (like Truoil) by thinning it and rubbing it on. So in place of a thin oil type finish, yes it's quite doable. The same method may work for a gloss finish, but it would be quite difficult to get the application right without creating flaws and witness lines. When applying it to a fretboard a common method is to use a damn round the fingerboard then pour epoxy, this method of application obviously wouldn't work on a more complicated shape like a bass body though. So it'd have to be done in multiple coats, which is likely to cause witness lines (hazy, cloudy, type patterns where one coats meets another).
  11. Defretted maple fretboard.

    [quote name='BigRedX' timestamp='1509645523' post='3400593'] How hard a finish is epoxy? How many hours of fretless playing with round-wound strings would you get out of it before the fingerboard needs true-ing up again and re-epoxying? [/quote] Decent stuff like West System is very hard and would withstand roundwounds for a long time. West System has a Shore rating of 83, which is apparently the same as a builders hard hat! It's pretty indestructible stuff.
  12. Defretted maple fretboard.

    [quote name='Cato' timestamp='1509637301' post='3400519'] Cheers for the advice folks. The luthier i contacted has also said he doesn't want to do it because he thinks removing the frets will damage the finish which, long story short, would take a lot of work to rectify and end up costing considerably more than the bass is worth, So, time for another look at fretless necks. [/quote] A wise man . The approach would be something like - Remove frets Fill slots True up fingerboard and completely remove finish due to the gaps the frets will have left and possible damage Apply a hard finish such as Epoxy Level the epoxy. So yeah, it'd be pricey.
  13. Defretted maple fretboard.

    Usually Maple boards are sprayed after the frets are installed, so if you defret you'll likely have bare patches where the frets used to sit. You'll also probably chip the surrounding finish removing the frets. It's also normal to have to sand/true up the board after removing frets...which will remove the finish. So you'll likely need to refinish the board after performing the defret. That's if you want it to look nice anyway.
  14. Nut Files for TI Flats

    [quote name='thegummy' timestamp='1509493774' post='3399482'] The only set I could find were Stewart McDonald [/quote] https://tonetechluthiersupplies.co.uk/bass-nut-files-set-of-3.html?SID=18d4ba24e0d5c3cfcaae84d3e917e5d4
  15. Nut Files for TI Flats

    Which nut files are you looking at? The Hosco set have a 65 and a 75. So your D would be the furthest out but still only .09, which won't cause any problems.
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