Manton Customs

Sounds like it's just the output jack to me. Very quick and cheap fix, it just needs replacing. Cool bass by the way!

Thank you . I think so too! I'm looking forward to hearing the first chord on it as I'm sure it hasn't made any sound in a very long time.

Thanks! True unfortunately due to the F hole damage, but at least one of them will be hidden under the pickguard. I'm also expecting the side repairs to be very inconspicuous when finished and colour matched. But yes, the important thing is that it'll soon be playable and it'll play better than it did when new!

[color=#141414][font=verdana, geneva, lucida,] Onto more gluing! Here the side after being glued back down. It took some patience and some unusual clamping techniques but eventually everything was lined up and back as it should be. There are two large areas where pieces will need to be inlaid but fortunately most of it is there.[/font][/color] [color=#141414][font=verdana, geneva, lucida,] [URL=http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/Manton-Customs/media/1938CromwellbyGibsonG4MantonCustomsRestoration23sidetogether2.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u425/Manton-Customs/1938CromwellbyGibsonG4MantonCustomsRestoration23sidetogether2.jpg[/IMG][/URL][/font][/color] [color=#141414][font=verdana, geneva, lucida,] A shot showing the larger of the missing sections. Ignore the glue squeeze out in the cracks, this will be removed later on.[/font][/color] [color=#141414][font=verdana, geneva, lucida,] [URL=http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/Manton-Customs/media/1938CromwellbyGibsonG4MantonCustomsRestoration22sidetogether1.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u425/Manton-Customs/1938CromwellbyGibsonG4MantonCustomsRestoration22sidetogether1.jpg[/IMG][/URL][/font][/color] [color=#141414][font=verdana, geneva, lucida,] Onto the next job; preparing the pieces to be inlaid. Here I'm planing the new section down to just under 2 mm to match the surrounding area (what's left of the side). This piece is much larger than I'm going to need but better that way than the other as this allows me to select the correct grain pattern and makes bending a bit easier. The new piece actually predates the guitar by about 30 years but who's counting! At least it's of a similar age and the same species of Mahogany.[/font][/color] [color=#141414][font=verdana, geneva, lucida,] [URL=http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/Manton-Customs/media/1938CromwellbyGibsonG4MantonCustomsRestoration15.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u425/Manton-Customs/1938CromwellbyGibsonG4MantonCustomsRestoration15.jpg[/IMG][/URL][/font][/color] [color=#141414][font=verdana, geneva, lucida,] Next the new piece is bent to the correct shape, I used a very simple bending iron to get here and stop when it rests perfectly on the side of the guitar (next to the damaged area).[/font][/color] [color=#141414][font=verdana, geneva, lucida,] [URL=http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/Manton-Customs/media/1938CromwellbyGibsonG4MantonCustomsRestoration15bentside.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u425/Manton-Customs/1938CromwellbyGibsonG4MantonCustomsRestoration15bentside.jpg[/IMG][/URL][/font][/color] [color=#141414][font=verdana, geneva, lucida,] Now using tracing paper I trace the missing areas and attach the tracing to the inlay pieces using double sided tape. Then I cut it out using a jewelers saw as you would for inlay, next it's just trial and error with files and paper to get it to fit nice and tightly into the gaps.[/font][/color] [color=#141414][font=verdana, geneva, lucida,] [URL=http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/Manton-Customs/media/1938CromwellbyGibsonG4MantonCustomsRestoration24tracing.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u425/Manton-Customs/1938CromwellbyGibsonG4MantonCustomsRestoration24tracing.jpg[/IMG][/URL][/font][/color] [color=#141414][font=verdana, geneva, lucida,] Here is one of the areas having had it's inlay piece glued in and then scraped flush. Please disregard the colour of the piece this will be added later. It's still rough at this stage and there will be a certain amount of "tidying" to go![/font][/color] [color=#141414][font=verdana, geneva, lucida,] [URL=http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/Manton-Customs/media/1938CromwellbyGibsonG4MantonCustomsRestoration26Inlaypiece12.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u425/Manton-Customs/1938CromwellbyGibsonG4MantonCustomsRestoration26Inlaypiece12.jpg[/IMG][/URL][/font][/color] [color=#141414][font=verdana, geneva, lucida,] Another shot of the same piece.[/font][/color] [color=#141414][font=verdana, geneva, lucida,] [URL=http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/Manton-Customs/media/1938CromwellbyGibsonG4MantonCustomsRestorationInlay25piece11.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u425/Manton-Customs/1938CromwellbyGibsonG4MantonCustomsRestorationInlay25piece11.jpg[/IMG][/URL][/font][/color] [color=#141414][font=verdana, geneva, lucida,] And the larger section, the glue round the edges still needs scraping off and again the whole thing tidying up.[/font][/color] [color=#141414][font=verdana, geneva, lucida,] [URL=http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/Manton-Customs/media/1938CromwellbyGibsonG4MantonCustomsRestoration27Inlaypiece21.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u425/Manton-Customs/1938CromwellbyGibsonG4MantonCustomsRestoration27Inlaypiece21.jpg[/IMG][/URL][/font][/color] [color=#141414][font=verdana, geneva, lucida,] Another shot of the large inlay piece. Still plenty of work to go on the side, filling tiny gaps around the older cracks, scraping, sanding, polishing and then finishing! But at least it's solid and together again! We'll be onto the fingerboard next update and return to the side at a later date.[/font][/color] [color=#141414][font=verdana, geneva, lucida,] [URL=http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/Manton-Customs/media/1938CromwellbyGibsonG4MantonCustomsRestoration28Inlaypiece22.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u425/Manton-Customs/1938CromwellbyGibsonG4MantonCustomsRestoration28Inlaypiece22.jpg[/IMG][/URL][/font][/color] [color=#141414][font=verdana, geneva, lucida,] Thanks for reading [/font][/color]

Yay! . Get yourself some Micro Mesh to finish it off and give a shine it would have never had from the factory. 0000 steel wool is also an alternative which will give a similar level of shine (not quite though), but tape off anywhere you wouldn't want steel wool fragments to get if you do this.

[quote name='Meddle' timestamp='1423688464' post='2688027'] I've done a half dozen defrets over the years, and have a few thoughts: What does heating up the fret with a soldering iron achieve? You want the fret to come out the fretboard quietly, so why use heat to expand it? If anything you want to heat the fret and let it cool again, trusting that the tangs expanded into the wood when hot and result in less wood touching the fret. A nice idea but I've never seen a good reason to heat the frets (or wet them), it just seems to be blindly passed on as essential knowledge. I never heat the frets. I tried once, and you end up with a hot fret. [/quote] Hoping it's not supposed to be a rhetorical question... A good reason for heating the frets is in case the frets are glued in, the heat softens the glue allowing easier removal. Also as wood is porous and always with some moisture content the heat will cause moisture to leave the area surrounding the tang, and loosen it's grip on the tang. Making removal cleaner without dragging up fibers from around the slot. This can be particularly bad on Ebony if done cold. Hope that helps if it was a genuine question if not...sorry!

You should be fine but here are a couple of pointers . Before starting, make damn sure there is definitely a bump there, do this by checking with a straight edge (as I'm sure you already did) and adjusting the truss rod to get it as flat as possible. Then, buying a radius block of the correct radius would be a good idea. If it's a noticeable bump you may want to start a bit lower than 400 (240 or something) before working your way up to 400 and beyond. Keep an eye on your progress with a straight edge. Hope none of that was too obvious .

Yes, the lid is open when being heated and the glue is stirred. This (like most of them!) was a hurried shot while I remembered to take pictures. You'd probably be ok to do it with the lid on as the temperature never gets that hot (or the glue would be ruined) but then you wouldn't be able to stir it!

But none of the commonly used species of Mahogany have grain like Ash (or that bass) not Sapele, Honduran, or Khaya..... If your still in doubt below is a link to a shot of the original catalog from 1980 specifying Ash as the body wood . It'd depend entirely on the dye used how the Ash would look when dyed. [url="http://www.kaitunes.com/guitars/bassbaritone/ibanez/rs900.html"]http://www.kaitunes....anez/rs900.html[/url]

Send us a PM if you don't have any joy with the other email address .

Not sure why your doubting what has been said, that's very obviously Ash. Regarding the grain fill...here's one I prepared earlier. Again this is Ash. [URL=http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/Manton-Customs/media/MantonCustomsEchoGuitarTeleInspired9Main.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u425/Manton-Customs/MantonCustomsEchoGuitarTeleInspired9Main.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

[quote name='tommorichards' timestamp='1423420522' post='2684573'] Very easy? [/quote] Yes, Truckstops description sums it up nicely. Whether you use black grain filler or black dye would depend on if you want a smooth finish where you cant feel the grain (filled) or a more natural feel where you can still feel it (dye). You can use any kind of clear coat you like over it (as long as it's compatible with both your dye and filler). Start with a clear goal of what you would like it to look like at the end: gloss, satin, or matte and choose your clear coat accordingly to save frustration. [quote name='Annoying Twit' timestamp='1423419236' post='2684561'] Would it be the case that trying that finish with basswood wouldn't work as there wouldn't be enough grain? [/quote] You'd be right yes. Basically Basswood isn't very porous (like Maple) so there's nothing for the filler to sit in. It wouldn't end up looking like the picture with the highlighted grain...it'd just be plain.

Thanks, I will. It will start to take shape in the next update so stay tuned!

Ok onto the repairs and for these we are going to need some glue! This type of glue has a multitude of different names: Scotch Glue, Pearl Glue, Animal Glue and most commonly Hide Glue. Whatever you want to call it, it's the best type of glue for these type of repair, it's extremely strong, vintage correct and easy to clean up and un do if necessary. For the interest of anyone attempting a similar type of repair I have included a basic tutorial on using it. [URL=http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/Manton-Customs/media/1938CromwellbyGibsonG4MantonCustomsRestoration14.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u425/Manton-Customs/1938CromwellbyGibsonG4MantonCustomsRestoration14.jpg[/IMG][/URL] First we soak the glue. The recipe is around 1 part glue to 1.9 parts water. This can vary depending on which brand of glue you have, though it isn't too critical and different strengths/viscosities are useful for different types of jobs. A bit of trial and error goes a long way. The glue is put in an air tight jar and soaked for a couple of hours. [URL=http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/Manton-Customs/media/1938CromwellbyGibsonG4MantonCustomsRestoration17glue2.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u425/Manton-Customs/1938CromwellbyGibsonG4MantonCustomsRestoration17glue2.jpg[/IMG][/URL] Here is what the soaked glue will look like. Notice is has absorbed all the water. [URL=http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/Manton-Customs/media/1938CromwellbyGibsonG4MantonCustomsRestoration18glue3.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u425/Manton-Customs/1938CromwellbyGibsonG4MantonCustomsRestoration18glue3.jpg[/IMG][/URL] Then the glue is heated in a double boiler. This is a very simple setup of a large pan, a gas hob and the jar containing the glue. Boil the water surrounding the jar until the glue has fully dissolved, but do not boil the glue as this can reduce strength. [URL=http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/Manton-Customs/media/1938CromwellbyGibsonG4MantonCustomsRestoration20glue4.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u425/Manton-Customs/1938CromwellbyGibsonG4MantonCustomsRestoration20glue4.jpg[/IMG][/URL] Here I have tried to get a shot of the correct thickness, it should be a continual stream from the brush to glue. Not so thick it drops in big blobs or so thin it just runs straight off. [URL=http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/Manton-Customs/media/1938CromwellbyGibsonG4MantonCustomsRestoration21glue5.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u425/Manton-Customs/1938CromwellbyGibsonG4MantonCustomsRestoration21glue5.jpg[/IMG][/URL] Onto putting the glue to use. Here's the crack back together, it joined nice and level. The line/roughness you are seeing is lacquer damage from where it cracked in the first place and also where the two plates have been rubbing together for what must have been a long time causing it to lift around the edges. This lacquer will be addressed later on. [URL=http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/Manton-Customs/media/e05131a3-6904-494e-a73c-9ae7fdf8ac3c.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u425/Manton-Customs/e05131a3-6904-494e-a73c-9ae7fdf8ac3c.jpg[/IMG][/URL] These are the small sections of kerfing which have been replaced, there's one in the center and one at the right hand edge of the shot. [URL=http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/Manton-Customs/media/1938CromwellbyGibsonG4MantonCustomsRestoration11.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u425/Manton-Customs/1938CromwellbyGibsonG4MantonCustomsRestoration11.jpg[/IMG][/URL] This is a cleat. These go on the underside of cracks to reinforce them and distribute weight across the crack. They are normally made of matching material to which you are repairing...so this one is Spruce. [URL=http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/Manton-Customs/media/1938CromwellbyGibsonG4MantonCustomsRestoration12.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u425/Manton-Customs/1938CromwellbyGibsonG4MantonCustomsRestoration12.jpg[/IMG][/URL] This is the side of the guitar, you'll notice I have reinforced the side with these vertical struts (three in total). These will act in a similar way to the cleats and strengthen the repairs so the guitar will last at least another 77 years! Also notice the previously mentioned cleats reinforcing the crack in the top (front). Ignore the messy glue all up the struts, this way peeled away after the picture was taken. [URL=http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/Manton-Customs/media/1938CromwellbyGibsonG4MantonCustomsRestoration13.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u425/Manton-Customs/1938CromwellbyGibsonG4MantonCustomsRestoration13.jpg[/IMG][/URL] That's it for now though the guitar is further advanced, I'm just sorting through the pictures for the next update...where the side is back together! Thanks for reading .

Yep, dyed red with (it looks like) black grain filler on Ash. Very easy to do.

There's this over at Talkbass [url="http://www.talkbass.com/threads/defretting.71144/"]http://www.talkbass....fretting.71144/[/url], from skim reading it most in that thread recommend filling the slots with wood dust, but that's never really going to be invisible so I would get yourself some contrasting veneer (Maple if the board is Ebony or Rosewood) to fill the slots with and have a lined fretless. Where are you based? If it's just a one off you may be better paying someone to do it as you'll need to buy a few tools such as: soldering iron, radius block, abrasive paper, something to pull the frets with, glue and the veneer if you go that way. You'll also need to re cut the nut slots afterwards. Having said that, it's not a particularly difficult job, the only risky bit is pulling the frets if you haven't done it before.

Thanks for checking this out. Yes, I'll try and remember to take lots of pics! Got a little time on it today and it's going as planned...which is nice. Will get an update up when there's something to see!

Cool, this has a V profile too and no trussrod, it has the rout but it was never fitted with a rod as there is no adjustment access at either end and the filler strip is deep. I believe it was one of the cost saving measures at the time to do without.

Hope it's ok to post this here, it's not a bass but thought some here may find it interesting and if it were a bass the process would be the same. This is a 1938 Cromwell Archtop G4 I bought to restore. If you are unfamiliar with the name it's a brand which was made in the Gibson factory during the great depression for department stores. This one is in a pretty rough state...let's call it reliced! But we can make it solid and playable again. It's 24.75 scale, has Mahogany back and sides with a Spruce archtop. I believe I have accurately dated this guitar to 38 from the headstock shape amongst other details. The goal of the restoration will to be to make it solid, playable, though still showing it's age and not to make it look brand new....A natural wartime relic from the 30s, if that's not cool I don't know what is! It still has it's original tailpiece and tuners though there are obviously some key parts missing which will be replaced/made. So, here's a quick rundown of what's wrong, what needs doing and what will remain the same. 1) Most obviously...there's no fretboard! It did come with one when I bought it but it was not original (I suspect 70s), heavily worn and no longer attached to the neck. So I'll be making a vintage correct one for it. The original fretboard would have looked quite stylish with a binding strip down the middle of the board and oversized dots, both of these will be recreated. 2) No bridge, so I'll be making one of those from Rosewood also. Though as mentioned above I do have the tailpiece. 3) Side has been heavily damaged, most of it is present, though some pieces aren't, these will require replacing with matching Mahogany 4) A crack in the top which will be re glued and 'cleated' 5) F hole damage, this will remain to avoid losing that lovely original finish, the bass side isn't too bad and I'm going to have a scratchplate covering the other. A scratchplate came with the guitar, though I need to do more research on whether it's original or not, I suspect it's not in which case I'll get one in. 6) A poor attempt at an inlay on the headstock, I'll address this. 7) Some kerfing round the damaged area is missing, so I'll be replacing that also. That's about it, then it'll probably be time to find it a new owner (unless I decide to keep it!). It's going to be a slow project as I'm working on it in my spare time with clients builds taking priority. Though having said that a little work has already been done which I'll be updating this thread with shortly. So here it is! Notice there is no truss rod, there never would have been though I'm guessing the slot is there from the factory where they would have made other models from the same blanks. [URL=http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/Manton-Customs/media/61010fa5-67d6-4666-acb9-54b713ef3dbd.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u425/Manton-Customs/61010fa5-67d6-4666-acb9-54b713ef3dbd.jpg[/IMG][/URL] The back is actually in great state, there is a hell of a lot of checking in the finish but I like that. [URL=http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/Manton-Customs/media/1938CromwellbyGibsonG4MantonCustomsRestoration2-1.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u425/Manton-Customs/1938CromwellbyGibsonG4MantonCustomsRestoration2-1.jpg[/IMG][/URL] The Gibson label. [URL=http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/Manton-Customs/media/1938CromwellbyGibsonG4MantonCustomsRestoration3.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u425/Manton-Customs/1938CromwellbyGibsonG4MantonCustomsRestoration3.jpg[/IMG][/URL] Here's the headstock shape and the inlay which shouldn't be there. Whoever did it didn't do a very good job and the piece can be removed easily. [URL=http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/Manton-Customs/media/1938CromwellbyGibsonG4MantonCustomsRestoration4.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u425/Manton-Customs/1938CromwellbyGibsonG4MantonCustomsRestoration4.jpg[/IMG][/URL] SMASH! It must have taken a big hit a some point. [URL=http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/Manton-Customs/media/1938CromwellbyGibsonG4MantonCustomsRestoration6.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u425/Manton-Customs/1938CromwellbyGibsonG4MantonCustomsRestoration6.jpg[/IMG][/URL] The crack in the top which was obviously held together with selotape for a long time. [URL=http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/Manton-Customs/media/1938CromwellbyGibsonG4MantonCustomsRestoration7.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u425/Manton-Customs/1938CromwellbyGibsonG4MantonCustomsRestoration7.jpg[/IMG][/URL] Another shot of the damage...It actually proved handy providing access to get access to the top crack. [URL=http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/Manton-Customs/media/1938CromwellbyGibsonG4MantonCustomsRestoration8-1.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u425/Manton-Customs/1938CromwellbyGibsonG4MantonCustomsRestoration8-1.jpg[/IMG][/URL] That's the guitar, next post will be the start of repairs. Thanks for looking

What he said basically. To make something in the style of one would be really quite easy, an exact copy would take a little more research.

We use Linseed also. Don't overdo it though, oiling once every 6 months or so should be fine.

Why not just use your soldering iron which you are using at the same time anyway!? That's what I do

[quote name='Bradwell' timestamp='1418137773' post='2627230'] Mahogany necks are too heavy to give a good balance on most guitars [/quote] It depends on the Mahogany; genuine Mahogany is quite a bit lighter than Maple, African and Sapele can range from lighter than to heavier than Maple.

I think a fair few tonewood believers do believe the neck and fingerboard have a bigger impact on tone....I have seen people say that anyway! You probably see articles in magazines and the such mentioning body wood more than neck wood because necks are normally just Maple on a majority of guitars and basses. It would also get quite complicated trying to predict the tone from a multi lam neck, when as has already been seen people generally cant tell the difference between two different body woods.

If it's standard tuners screw size, you'll want a 1.5 mm bit to avoid any chance of breaking the screw. Breaking a screw is about the worst thing you can do as they usually break flush with the wood. All the advice so far is good, tape the bit to get the correct depth (so you don't drill too shallow, or through the other side!) and wax/soap the screw. Also make sure all tuners are in the correct position (obviously!) as they look awful if not.